columns in eugene

[kevino]

So i'm gonna be in Eugene next weekend for the olympic trials and i wanted to sneak in a little climbing if possible. Does anyone have an overlay of route grades or something along those lines? Do a lot of people lead or is mainly used for TR?

 

Also if you feel like letting two climber/runner bums sleep in your yard that would be great! Thanks.

 

 

Edited June 25, 2008 by kevino

[111]

watching or competing in the trials? Naive question I know, but answer it without sarcasm if you can.

 

Rout grades there are all under 5.10 except the three cracks on the far right of the main wall. the three are (from the fencing left, .10c, .11 pinscars, .10a

 

all are TR-able

[texplorer]

Check out this page for more details.

 

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/oregon/the_columns/105790259

 

[kevino]

I'll be watching. Thanks for the info as well. I googled the 2nd and lincoln as per mountainproject, so is it in skinner butte park?

 

Only two more days!

[rmncwrtr]

Kevino - pm Muffy if you have any questions about the columns (skinner butte). She took me there last July. My first time climbing outside. She lives nearby and knows that place really well.

[rocky_joe]

you need to get on 5 climbs for sure at the columns. in the middle the hand crack is called Fat Crack 5.9 super bomber all the way up. just to climbers right is a 5.10 finger crack named Hard Layback. Total blast just do what the name suggests. All the way to the right is 5.10b Limpdick (minus 7 feet of freshly removed basalt). On the lest side of the main section is the chimey. so fun i think it fetches 5.8. and then two cracks right of that is a fun 10. lots of good finger cracks and you can make any variation you desire. check out the guide book: Rock Climbing Oregon: Willamette. you can get it at REI or stop by the UO outdoor program in the EMU (student union)

[rocky_joe]

oh and 111. there is a 12a...the pinscar R. of hard layback. and a 13c. called Crack-a-no-go (the short one L. of Limpdick).

[111]

Just visited Columns today, when did the top of Limp Dick fall off? Did someone find it to be unsafe and lever it off?

[shapp]

Is it me? or does the grade of Fat Crack increaes linearly with the number of People that love the Tvedts routes at flagstone?

[Maine-iac]

The person that manages Skinners Butte and the columns, e.g. City Parks and Rec. pushed it off. The few days leading up to that, you could make that portion of the column move just by flexing your hands in the hand jams. From what I have heard, it only required one solid push and the whole block came down.

[111]

that musta been the highlight of that guy's work day!

[texplorer]

Wow, I used to solo limpdick all the time. That is sad that the top is gone. That makes the route probably a two move route now.

[shapp]

as I posted on 11/26/07

 

Was down in Eugene for Turkey Day. Was at the Columns on Wednesday. Was f-ing around and aided Limp Dick. I placed a #4 friend at the very top, stepped up onto it and the the column that forms the left side of the Limp Dick crack shifted. The cam was placed about mid-expansion, when I stepped up onto it, the cam opened up and nearly tipped out. I quickly realized what was going on and started to free climb the last moves to the top. The column in question leans to the left and there is a horizontal crack through the column at mid hieght. FYI - I don't think that folks should aid this route at this time, though I doubt many people do anyway.

Shapp