Das Beerd Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 I'm not familiar enough with the standard route through the Old Crater (Mazama route, methinks) to know if I'll need to rope up or not. Is it doable solo this time of year without a rope team? I figure Friday night it's going to be a big game of follow-the-leader up there anyways. Advice? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Doable. Some teams do choose to rope up though. My thinking is if I'm not comfortable soloing when no one else is around, then I won't solo. When going alone, I don't rely on someone else being there to bail me out if I get sketched or I'm not sure of the route. Do your homework on the route and conditions then make good judgement calls along the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Das Beerd Posted June 24, 2008 Author Share Posted June 24, 2008 So what about crevasse danger? From what I can tell it looks like this old crater route doesn't go over the schrund. Is that the case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 You do not need a partner or a rope for the South side. It is often skied this time of year. If you go on a weekend you can follow dozens (hundreds) of people to the summit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Das Beerd Posted June 24, 2008 Author Share Posted June 24, 2008 Good skiing? That sounds sweet. All the way from the top or just below the crater? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_Poulton Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 If you go the Mazama route (west crater rim) be prepared for some nice exposure on that summit ridge...If I remember correctly the ridge that links the western half of the mountain with the true summit is about as wide as your two feet...that's the only spot I thought a rope would have been a nice comfort when I did Leuthold awhile back... You can ski off the top. Just choose a line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maine-iac Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 Ski from the top and charge hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Das Beerd Posted June 26, 2008 Author Share Posted June 26, 2008 Rock and roll. From what I've heard falls above the Hogsback can really put a dent in you so I'm thinking I'll ditch the planks around crater rock and get some turns in from there down. Thanks for all the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigtree Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 Das Beerd, just climbed it last Thursday. The scariest thing for me was the fear of getting clotheslined by the hordes of inexperienced folks climbing above the Hogsback in the event there was a fall. Also, you might find a second tool helpful on some parts of the descent should you decide to downclimb nose-in. Lastly, don't be a lame ass like so many folks I saw who actually took a snow-cat ride up to ~ 8,500' before commencing their "climb". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Das Beerd Posted June 26, 2008 Author Share Posted June 26, 2008 I was thinking I'd snow-cat up a few coolers of Black Butte Porter and sell them for $5 a pop to the decending hordes. It's still cheaper than Timberline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillA Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 Also, make sure you know your four basic responsibilities, carry seven different cell phones, AT LEAST two GPS units, an MLU and a black lab. If you follow all of these rules you might just live. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_p Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 Don't forget a little teddy bear to hug and keep you calm after you fuck it up big time on the South Side Slog and need to ride out the wait for the helo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Das Beerd Posted June 28, 2008 Author Share Posted June 28, 2008 Good times were had by all. The summit was sweet and the crowds were surprisingly manageable (avoidable). Thanks for all the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 ...I'll ditch the planks around crater rock and get some turns in from there down... Now go back and take the planks all the way up and schuss the bowl above CR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maine-iac Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 Hell yeah Sobo! My "goal" this year was to gap the bergshrund; but since we skied the Mazama chute when it was avy prone, I decided not to push my luck. Next year though.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 Maine-iac: Remember... "Discretion is the better part of valor." I had neither when I yardsaled my way down the bowl below the Pearly Gates... Good on you for recognizing an epic in the making and taking the requisite steps to avoid same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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