Stuart north ridge bivy sites

[Steve Larson]

Are any of the bivy sites on Stuart's north ridge suitable for a small tent (like a Bibler I-tent)?

 

[kevbone]

Some.....a bivy sack would work better.

[ivan]

there are really 3 bivy sites on the ridge - 1 at the base, 1 at the notch and the summit (though there's one at the base of the gendarme too i think, but i'm pretty certain a tent won't fit there?)

 

you can do the i-ten at the first and last in my list for certain, and probably at the notch too, though i'd recommend just a 32 degree bag and some tyvek and that's it. my last time bivy'ing there i had just a bivy sack and down jacket and thought it too cold - a bag and nothign else oughta be fine, good weather permitting.

[kevbone]

 

 

Me at the notch in 98. I remember there being tons of single bivy spots on the route......

[Off_White]

There's a decent wind sheltered bivy at the end of the hand traverse, a pitch before the Gendarme, but I don't think you'd fit a tent.

[mattp]

I'd second Ivan's approach. Go when the weather forecast calls for no chance of rain and leave tent and bivvy sack at home.

[telemarker]

There's a great bivi site convenienty located at the top of the second Gendarme pitch. Plenty of room, and by the looks of it, frequently used.

[mattp]

If you made it that far, might you generally want to keep stumbling up to the summit and bivvy there, or does this site actually get the sun earlier in the morning at this time of year, something that is generally a plus if you are carrying the typical underwhelming gear for warmth?

[chucK]

From location and number of posts of the original poster, and the fame of the North Ridge, I'll bet this person has a fairly set time window. I agree with you guys that IF the weather looks totally bomber, then don't haul a bunch of shit you don't need. But say you're pushing your luck because you're from out of town and want to tick the famous NR Stuart in your one-week window?

 

If the weather were unstable, would you bring a tent, or would you just say no and crag? Something in between? Personally, I think marooned on the N Ridge in a summer blizzard would be pretty damn crappy. But if you had a tent, and didn't need to be at work the next day, chances are with a quick summer storm, you could wait it out and still have a reasonably good time.

 

Off White's ledge is mentioned in this trip report. I remember looking at that thing, and my mind's eye says it's big enough for an I-tent. Though this year, depending on when you do this thing, it could be crowded with snow. This site is East-facing and below the crest so you would be protected from the Westerly winds (which would be where storms would probably be coming from) and would maybe get morning sun.

 

 

[telemarker]

If you made it that far, might you generally want to keep stumbling up to the summit and bivvy there, or does this site actually get the sun earlier in the morning at this time of year, something that is generally a plus if you are carrying the typical underwhelming gear for warmth?

 

There's still a bit of ground to cover to the summit at that point, that includes a tricky downclimb to the last short 5.9 pitch, so it makes sense to bivi there, especially if prepared to do so. It's on the W. side of the ridge.

[Blake]

I think if at all capable it's best to do this route without a bivy. Apart from 4 or 5 short pitches, there is nothing more than 4th and low 5th class on stellar rock.

[tradhead]

If it were me and I thought I'd hit some bad weather, I'd bring a tarp instead of a tent. Way lighter and you can use it more places on-route than a tent. Maybe not as warm, but when I climbed the route in September a few years back a 40 degree sleeping bag by itself was plenty of insulation.

 

 

[telemarker]

I think if at all capable it's best to do this route without a bivy. Apart from 4 or 5 short pitches, there is nothing more than 4th and low 5th class on stellar rock.

 

I think I would beg to differ on this. What better route to bivi on with solid rock, easy fun climbing, straight forward hauling on the Gendarme and perfectly situated bivi sites. I think the route is taylor made for bivi-ing, especially if you're new to long alpine routes. Plus, if you started from the toe of the buttress, I couldn't think of a better way to spend 2 1/2 days or so.

 

Personally, however, the FNR makes for an incredible day climb, something I would have no problem repeating every year!