[TR] Goose Egg Mountain - Commando Pillar - Grade III - 5.11B 3/12/2008

[AlpineMonkey]

Trip: Goose Egg Mountain - Commando Pillar - Grade III - 5.11B

 

Date: 3/12/2008

 

Trip Report:

Once again, I have found goods other than Vantage. An entertaining, sustained multipitch route up the North Side of Goose Egg Mountain, The Commando Pillar – Grade III, 5.11B. As usual the highlights included not one other person, beautiful scenery, and engaging climbing. A critique might say, STFU Craig, for these places have been relatively unknown and only explored by a select few. Perhaps this very post will inspire hoards of people to Goose Egg and one will have to stand in line to climb the Commando Pillar and the walls other fine routes. But I assure those critiques that there is plenty of rock out there and plenty of places to explore. I’m just trying to throw some things out there to loosen the load on some of the more popular crags. If you’re looking for a little early season alpine adventure, I suggest checking out the east wall on Goose Egg.

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Approximatly 15 quickdraws, Gear to 3 inches

[bwrts]

what type of rock do you think that is craig?

 

I am inspired!

 

Congrats on the P.

 

You should explore the Trib canyons of Wenatchee Valley.

 

[AlpineMonkey]

basalt

[UW_climber]

uh, STFU Craig & say whats up to Ryan. And plan to climb during the week @ vantage next qrt w/ me.

[SemoreJugs]

How many pitches is that? Fairly solid? Big scary run-outs? I've been wanting to check out goose egg but usually end up at the bend...

[sobo]

Seven pitches. See pages 182-185 in this book:

 

 

I want to get on RTL and Dirty Sanchez this spring...

[iamjacktors]

Nice work. You spelled it wrong though - It's "Commandho". They didn't get it wrong in the book did they?

[cman]

i did that route a couple of years ago. It was a fun route and pretty solid, for goose egg. we did knock one or two large rocks though. did you find any looseness?

 

we skipped that first pitch so i think it is only 5.10 after that. but overall some decent crack and bolted pitches.

[sobo]

Nice work. You spelled it wrong though - It's "Commandho". They didn't get it wrong in the book did they?

 

You are correct, sah. It is "Commandho Pillar" and they did *not* get it wrong in the guide.

[kevino]

I want to get on RTL and Dirty Sanchez this spring...

 

Let me know when you want to go. After going there yesterday I'm stoked to go back.

[AlpineMonkey]

If anybody want's to do a route up there tomorrow I'm trying to find someone. Send me a pm, I'll check it later in the afternoon. I want to try a route on Koochman (butchered spelling probably) rock.

[sobo]

...I want to try a route on Koochman (butchered spelling probably) rock.

 

Not too badly, Craig: Kloochman

 

But the real question is, do you have a death wish?

[sobo]

I want to get on RTL and Dirty Sanchez this spring...

 

Let me know when you want to go. After going there yesterday I'm stoked to go back.

 

Not this weekend, but calendar is opening up for the next two weekends after that.

[AlpineMonkey]

Went and climbed the first pitch of a route on Kloochman today before bailing because the wind chill was extreme. At least to where we got to, the rock was not as bad as its talked up to be. What we climbed was more solid then routes I've done on Goose Egg.

[rbw1966]

Can't remember the name of the route I climbed on that rock (easy, 5.6 or so multi-pitch) but the bolts were ridiculously close together. You could clip two of them from one stance if you so chose.

[G-spotter]

Can't remember the name of the route I climbed on that rock (easy, 5.6 or so multi-pitch) but the bolts were ridiculously close together. You could clip two of them from one stance if you so chose.

 

but what if when you fall, half of them pull out?

[rbw1966]

They were all solid when I did it but its been a few years.