Nooksack Tower historical winter ascents

[Panos]

.

From AAJ 1984, p161:

"Nooksack Tower, Winter Ascent. Well, “the Devil had fallen,” but not the Demon. Nooksack Tower awaited a winter ascent. Dan Cauthom and Bob Crawford had attempted it the previous winter. Seven stormy days inside their tent was the reward. However, their ordeal was not over when they got down. A rather large bill awaited them for services rendered, or not rendered. It depends on your point of view. Personally, we feel that winter climbing in the Cascades is justified, and we resent persons in the Bellingham Mountain Rescue Unit who advised the sherrif’s department that it is not. In early February 1983 it Lewis, Tim Wilson and we two set out to give it a try. The approach went well, and in two days we reached 6500 feet across from the Tower. From our camp, Nooksack Tower plastered in winter snow looked very impressive indeed. What was it that Fred Beckey said ? “Mammoth rock tower, one of the most difficult summits.” We retired to the tent to talk about which route to try, deciding on the easiest one possible, up the gully. At five A.M. we set off across the glacier with the weather looking good for at least one more day. We reached the base of the tower shortly after daybreak. The gully was straightforward and by eleven A.M. we were standing in the sun eating lunch at the base of the tower’s east ridge. Two pitches of steep rock climbing (difficult to protect) were the crux of the climb. Above, another snow gully led to the summit with one final rock pitch. On top, in the sun once again, there was just enough room for the four of us. A spectacular place to spend the night, complete with views of the northern lights. In the morning we watched little wisps of clouds forming around the higher peaks. The high-pressure system was breaking down, but it had lasted long enough to give us some memorable experiences. GREG COLLUM and JIM NELSON."

 

Is this a description of a winter ascent of the Beckey-Schmidtke route as reported in McLane's guide book? It must be. Then, please help me understand where exactly on-route were these four climbers "standing in the sun" at 11am? Where is the "base of the tower's east ridge" if not at the top of the couloir (notch)? I was looking for some information on winter ascents and now I am more confused than before...

 

Also see, AAJ 1947, p.436:

"Nooksack Tower: First Ascent. Nooksack Tower (8500 ft.) is a very prominent upthrust on the E. ridge of Mt. Shuksan, somewhat, resembling in position the Aig. Noire de Peteret on Mont Blanc. The climb has repulsed attempts since 1939. On 5 July 1946 Fred Beckey and Clifford Schmidtke left camp (3OCO ft.) on the N. fork of the Nooksack River and by a previously reconnoitered route reached the bergschrund at the foot of the final N. face (6500 ft.) at 10.30 A.M. Scbmidtke worked over the bergschrund, and Beckey kicked steps 800 ft. up a 50” ice couloir on the N. face. Snow conditions were dangerous, and occasional rock falls harassed the party. The climbers then worked westward into a hidden rock trough and donned tennis shoes. The final 1200 ft. involved fourth-class climbing along the north arete. Care and continual belaying were necessary. One safety piton was used. The pair reached the summit at 3.30 P.M. and then had an uneventful descent, rappelling from pitons placed in the rock wall at the flank of the couloir. They reached camp in the valley at 10 P.M. F.B."

 

and AAJ 1982, p153:

"Nooksack Tower, Northeast Couloir and East Ridge. On May 30Chuck

Gerson and I made this climb in one long day (18 hours) from our camp on the ridge above Price Lake (5800 feet). Our route continued up the ice ribbon where the main couloir narrows down, and the original route traverses right. We had one good pitch of ice before the angle eased off and then it was snow the rest of the way to the notch. From the notch there were probably eight pitches on rock. The rock was quite reasonable except for one pitch on the south face. The descent found us rappeling down fantastic ice gullies on the 1946 route. Here was the ice we had hoped to find on our route. About 10 rappels put us back in the main couloir, which we climbed down by head-lamp. (IV 5.7.) JIM NELSON."

Edited February 20, 2008 by Panos

[dberdinka]

That definitely is NOT a description of the Beckey route. Sounds exactly like the Nelson-Gerson route.

[Blake]

Panos, if you are in Seattle you could always swing by Pro Mountain Sports and ask Jim himself.

[Ade]

The notch on the Nelson-Gerson gets the sun (in April at least). From memory that's the line Jim's party used for the first winter ascent.

[Panos]

.

Thank you gentlemen.

As advised I will go and ask Jim Nelson because in the Selected Climbs as well as in McLane's book it seems that in February 1983 the four climbers did the Beckey-Schmidtke route (something that does not seem to fit with the description above). Perhaps they followed the couloir higher and near the notch they traversed right to the prominent couloir that joints the Beckey-Schmidtke route.

Edited February 20, 2008 by Panos

[timmy_t]

As advised I will go and ask Jim Nelson

And then we advise you to let us know the exciting conclusion....

[John_Scurlock]

Good God Almighty that was APRIL???

[Colin]

Hey Panos,

 

I used to work for Jim for several years at PMS, and asked him about Nooksack Tower a bunch.

 

Jim and Chuck Gerson made the first ascent of the Nelson-Gerson route in May 1982, and then the foursome went and made the FWA of the Tower the following February, VIA THE SAME ROUTE, THE NELSON-GERSON. I'm sure of this.

 

In Selected Climbs Vol. 1, Second Edition, on page 298 there is a photo of Kit on the FWA. That is the first pitch above the col on the Nelson-Gerson.

 

Ade Miller and I went and made an early spring ascent of the Nelson-Gerson a few years ago (Must've been April '04), and I'd recommend the route. I think we posted a TR, but I wasn't able to find it during a quick search.

 

Hope that helps.

 

 

[Panos]

 

Thanks Colin.

This info helps a lot.

Perhaps I will give it a go

in summer conditions first.

Panos )

[mattp]

Hey Panos:

While you are there, ask Jim about the rescue operation alluded to briefly in the first post. The quote I remember is:

 

"Don't worry, Mr. Nelson, we have the mountain surrounded."

 

[AllYouCanEat]

I always liked this TR of the FA of the S face of Nooksack tower:

 

http://cascadeclassics.org/Climbing/NooksackTower/SouthFace/Summer01/SouthFace,Summer01.htm

[Tom_Sjolseth]

Thanks for the link, AYCE. A good read for sure.

 

Does anyone know anything about moat/snow gulley issues affecting the Nelson-Gerson route this late in the season? Is there anyone that has been up there to have a look at this route recently?

 

I'm thinking mid-June might be the best time to give this one a go.