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Rumors of ice?? conditions update??


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Any body been out to Banks? Is anything surviving this warm snap?

Trying to find Ice this weekend but it sounds like Banks will be iffy, Vantage will be out, and Alpental will be a death trap, which leaves Leavenworth and even then probably only Mountaineers creek or having a go at some mixed up on Eight Mile Buttress. Any thoughts?

 

For those of you who have been up Mountaineers creek, what's the Avy danger there like? Alex's guide has it listed as moderate, but it would be great to get some more details.

TIA

:wave:

 

delayed :pagetop:

Edited by selkirk
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Any body been out to Banks? Is anything surviving this warm snap?

Trying to find Ice this weekend but it sounds like Banks will be iffy, Vantage will be out, and Alpental will be a death trap, which leaves Leavenworth and even then probably only Mountaineers creek or having a go at some mixed up on Eight Mile Buttress. Any thoughts?

 

For those of you who have been up Mountaineers creek, what's the Avy danger there like? Alex's guide has it listed as moderate, but it would be great to get some more details.

TIA

:wave:

 

delayed :pagetop:

 

Moderate is a fair assement. Most of the climbs on the bottom tier up to Mr seattle are approached via relatively short, but steep enough to slide slopes. Proper routefinding can get you to mr seattle with minimal exposure, other climbs may require more time on prone slopes. Eric8 kicked off a few slabs above mr seattle last winter.

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I'm looking for a day's worth of TR for tomorrow. Some good ice would be nice, but doesn't sound likely with this weather. I could settle with mixed, or even dry-tooling --anything please! Can anyone recommend something with solid natural anchors that isn't subject to avy danger?

 

 

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Welcome to the PNW, kevin.

 

Well now that winter training is postponed, want to go to chinook pass?

 

Unless stuff at banks lake is still in...which i doubt because of the heat wave we've been having.

 

The stuff up Chinook Pass way has got to be coming apart by now, based on the conditions report from FBCC on the previous page, coupled with the recent chinook winds.

 

I would expect that Banks would be, IMHO, even worse.

 

Now, if we start talking about Strobach (base elev. = 4,500 feet AMSL, which coincidentally is the same elevation as White Pass, which is currently at 26 degrees)... We'd need both days, unless you have a sno-mo, because the hike in is ~3 hours.

 

Shoot a PM real quick-like if you're interested, as I need to either commit to one or both days this weekend, or turn in my penis pass back to the wife. The clock is running. GO!

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Got off work at noon and drove up to scope things out. Theres a lot of ice but it is starting to rot out. We climbed Trotskys folly and it was in good shape, until about 300 pn, than it was a snowcone. Ice is changing fast. Most of the climbs looked scary from the road, but still might be climbable. Champagne is there, looks thinner and ready to come down?????. Might rain tomorow if it does that will be the end of it. Puchbowl should be around for a while if you just want to climb, but there are the deathsickles.

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I can only imagine that Strobachs or White pass might have something

 

let us know if you find anything

 

I think Selkirk is got the right idea.

 

"Both passes are closed again, with Snoqualmie down for at least 8 to 10 hrs of Avy control.

Once again the forecast is "stay home and drink"

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Bagged on Strobach as well. In normal years, those climbs are funnels for a lot of small rocks and shit anyway. This year's cycle, it'd be like climbing Cascade in Banff right after a two-foot dump! No sense asking for trouble.

 

I'm heading over to NE OR with POTM for a little Lostine River Canyon action. Tell Steve at TG Brewery we're stopping in afterwards! :brew: :brew: :brew:

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You can still go north. We went up and played on the punchbowl, took a young lady for her frist time. All the deathsicicles where gone over the right side. The ice was Plastic. Should have done Zenith Friday, its all still there. Don't know if it will last the week. Still fun to be had.DSC_0775_copy.jpg

Edited by Paul_detrick
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Is that a bike helmet? Sweet, I'm gonna try that. Looks ultra-light! Way better than my ol' Joe Brown for ice climbering (although it's well-insulated).

 

Oh yeah, the climbs in the Lostine River canyon in the Wallowas would have been primo a week earlier. They were coming down as we stood beneath them this past weekend. Pup_on_the_mountain took some pics. Mebbe he'll post 'em up somewhere.

Edited by sobo
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Anybody want to venture any ice predictions for next weekend? Avy danger seems to be coming down, but the temperatures up. Any chance that anything at Banks Lake, Leavenworth, or Snoqualmie will survive the temps or am I just dreaming?

 

Strobach is fat. Go there or find something around the same elevation, and you're all set.

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A friend has been in several times in the last two weeks. This past Monday skiied in and tried an FA on the left side of Seperation Gully, but backed off. All the pics are of stuff that looks pretty good. Not quite like last year, but looks good. I am heading over Fri, Sat, Sun.

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