Tatoosh advice please

[Alpinfox]

 

I'm considering a day trip to the Tatoosh area on Sunday. I've never been in that area and so I'd like some advice.

 

It seems like Lane Peak, Castle, and Pinnacle might be good objectives.

 

Is the Paradise lot the best place to park for those? Any route recommendations or advice?

 

A shorter approach would be preferred and technical difficulties up to a short section of very low 5th will be fine for my partners.

 

Anybody been in the area recently? Conditions?

[lizard_brain]

Park at Reflection Lakes.

[Alpinfox]

According to some guy I talked to on the phone (360-569-2211) the road is closed at paradise.

 

Is paradise the best place to approach from then or would Narada Falls lot (or somewhere else along the road) be better?

 

Which routes are fun (with relatively short approaches and difficulties <5.4)?

 

[armin]

We were up there last Saturday. Park at Narada Falls lot and take the summer trail that starts right after the loo (branches of to the left). The trail should still have a bunch of ski tracks up to the road. Once on the road, follow it to Reflection lake and branch off the the right (into the woods). Again, tracks should be visible. You are right under the Pinnacle and the Castle now. We took part of the summer trail and traversed east a bit to get to the col east of the Castle. The skiing was good, I don't know about the climbing though.

 

a

[pope]

I'm pretty sure you won't be able to drive to Reflection Lake. Park at Narada Falls. All of the peaks you mention are great winter outings. To approach Lane Peak's north routes, climb the slope above Narada Falls up to the road. Go right (west). The road will turn south and then back to the east. Just as it turns east, drop off into the valley to a point just east of Lane Peak. The N-Face gully climbs on Lane are down-stream. They could be in good shape with the warm rain we had and subsequent cold temps. Difficult to know. The descent is down the drainage just east of Lane, then back out the way you went in.

 

Pinnacle and Castle are best approached by continuing on the road to Reflection Lake. Castle's East Ridge would be pretty good if not too snowy. Don't do the North Ridge of Pinnacle.

[JayB]

Some of the routes on Lane Peak might be worth considering. Access via the Narada Falls lot.

 

Big Pic:

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=9804&size=big&cat=&si=lane

[Dannible]

Don't do the North Ridge of Pinnacle.

 

Have you done it in the winter? I did it in the summer, and heard something about it being good in the winter, but have trouble picturing ice forming on it.

[mattp]

I've done the North Ridge of Pinnacle Peak twice, and I think it is an outstanding climb. It is about five short pitches, all with a good belay, and it is a whole lotta fun. I've heard it sucks as a summer climb, but I cannot think of a short mildly technical winter climb that I've enjoyed more. It is three times the fun of, for example, Lovers Lane or The Zipper on Lane Peak. It is more exposed and it can have unstable cornices on it, though, and there are some mildly difficult bits where you don't want to fall. It isn't an ice climb per se -- more of an easy mixed climb -- but I used ice screws and tools both times I've climbed it.

[Alpinfox]

 

 

Thanks for all the info folks.

 

David Whitelaw, Fred Beckey, and Britta and I made it as far as Reflection Lakes before bad weather and a sour stomach turned us around. It snowed about two inches while we were out and it looked like there was quite a bit more on the way, so the skiing might be good.

 

There was a breakable crust with about 6-8 inches of unconsolidated sugar underneath, so it wasn't the best hiking conditions. If we had gotten off the packed trail, I think snowshoes would have been desirable.

 

It was nice to get out in the mountains for a day, even if it was only for a 3 mile flat walk.

 

 

[Bug]

 

......... I think snowshoes would have been desirable.

 

.............

Isn't that an oxymoron?