BDEL Posted November 10, 2007 Posted November 10, 2007 I just started climbing ice and would like to go leashless. I think an umbilical cord is a good idea. The only problem is that I don't know how to make one. I've seen some elastic material at REI, but it doesn't look like it has much stretch to it. I've also seen people putting some elastic through some tubular webbing, but this seems a little inefficient and difficult to make. Does anyone have a good system they would recommend? Thanks! Quote
Farrgo Posted November 10, 2007 Posted November 10, 2007 Check out Alpine Dave's website www.alpinedave.com. He has a description of how to make them. Quote
glassgowkiss Posted November 12, 2007 Posted November 12, 2007 look, for one pitch ice routes you don't need them. as the matter of fact it will be safer for you not to have them in case you fall. Quote
Don_Serl Posted November 13, 2007 Posted November 13, 2007 umbilicals were a bad idea 30 years ago in the early days of ice climbing (forever hooking on icicles and screwing up your moves, hampering the balance and freedom of your swing), and i find it more than a little humorous that they've somewhat come back into favor for use with 'modern', leashless tools. how does it go? those who don't know their history are doomed to repeat it... cheers, Quote
pms Posted November 13, 2007 Posted November 13, 2007 does that mean you're still using wrist leashes old man? Quote
Off_White Posted November 14, 2007 Posted November 14, 2007 Psst! Mister! Wanna buy an ice screw? Quote
David Trippett Posted November 14, 2007 Posted November 14, 2007 how 'bout some ice tools mister? Quote
Don_Serl Posted November 14, 2007 Posted November 14, 2007 does that mean you're still using wrist leashes old man? sure does. i can't convince myself why it's considered progress to artificially make hard climbing harder. case in point - i watched a couple climbers i greatly respect for their abilities struggle like hell on a gnarly problem at Marble Canyon last January - both were using leashless tools, and getting crazy pumped. when they finished up, i had a go, and cruised the climb - mostly cuz i could focus my energy where it was needed, i.e. making the sticks, placing the feet, and making the moves, not desperately hanging onto the tools and continually running the mental calculator on how much "time" you had left before you dropped off like an over-ripe plum. these guys both are better ice climbers than I am, and stronger too. they just were wasting a huge proportion of their 'ability'. I'm old enough and comfortable enuf in my skin to not give a rat's ass what 'fashion' dictates, especially when that fashion is being propounded by bored, hyper-ambitious (and, admittedly, superbly strong and talented) Frenchmen dependant for their living upon having you buy the fruits of their influence. leashless tools are undoubtedly the ONLY rational choice for modern dry-tooling/ mixed routes - but that's not what I climb. meanwhile, every leashless tool I've swung so far (and I HAVE tried lots of 'em out) swings like a Neanderthal gardening implement on pure ice routes compared to a wide range of modern-day waterfall axes. heck, they swing and place considerably more poorly than the heavy, straight-shafted tools I used to use 20 years ago. and that's BEFORE you tie strings to the back end of them to interfere with what balance you can get into the swing! swing them that is, if the strings don't get tangled in something and cause you to waste yet more energy trying to sort out the cluster-fuck... one of the two or three homilies than I run my life on comes in its most succinct form from N.A.M. Rodger: "The only useful measure of quality is fitness for purpose". a pair of Quarks with a pair of Androids on them, thank you - THAT's "quality", not some stupid system of strings and elastics to keep you from dropping your effing tools when you're so pumped you can't even close your hands around the grips any more. aw, shit, don't get me started... cheers, Quote
Don_Serl Posted November 14, 2007 Posted November 14, 2007 Psst! Mister! Wanna buy an ice screw? can't fool me! that's not an ice screw, that's a narwhal dick! cheers Quote
Don_Serl Posted November 14, 2007 Posted November 14, 2007 how 'bout some ice tools mister? ...and THOSE are tire irons for a Euclid. cheers again, Quote
Chad_A Posted November 14, 2007 Posted November 14, 2007 does that mean you're still using wrist leashes old man? sure does. i can't convince myself why it's considered progress to artificially make hard climbing harder. case in point - i watched a couple climbers i greatly respect for their abilities struggle like hell on a gnarly problem at Marble Canyon last January - both were using leashless tools, and getting crazy pumped. when they finished up, i had a go, and cruised the climb - mostly cuz i could focus my energy where it was needed, i.e. making the sticks, placing the feet, and making the moves, not desperately hanging onto the tools and continually running the mental calculator on how much "time" you had left before you dropped off like an over-ripe plum. these guys both are better ice climbers than I am, and stronger too. they just were wasting a huge proportion of their 'ability'. I'm old enough and comfortable enuf in my skin to not give a rat's ass what 'fashion' dictates, especially when that fashion is being propounded by bored, hyper-ambitious (and, admittedly, superbly strong and talented) Frenchmen dependant for their living upon having you buy the fruits of their influence. leashless tools are undoubtedly the ONLY rational choice for modern dry-tooling/ mixed routes - but that's not what I climb. meanwhile, every leashless tool I've swung so far (and I HAVE tried lots of 'em out) swings like a Neanderthal gardening implement on pure ice routes compared to a wide range of modern-day waterfall axes. heck, they swing and place considerably more poorly than the heavy, straight-shafted tools I used to use 20 years ago. and that's BEFORE you tie strings to the back end of them to interfere with what balance you can get into the swing! swing them that is, if the strings don't get tangled in something and cause you to waste yet more energy trying to sort out the cluster-fuck... one of the two or three homilies than I run my life on comes in its most succinct form from N.A.M. Rodger: "The only useful measure of quality is fitness for purpose". a pair of Quarks with a pair of Androids on them, thank you - THAT's "quality", not some stupid system of strings and elastics to keep you from dropping your effing tools when you're so pumped you can't even close your hands around the grips any more. aw, shit, don't get me started... cheers, Wow, Don, feel better? You're in rare form on this one! Bah, I just like leashless because it keeps my hands warmer, and the screaming barfies away. My Quark Ergos swing excellent, IMHO. Haven't messed with the umbilicals yet. Quote
Couloir Posted November 16, 2007 Posted November 16, 2007 Psst! Mister! Wanna buy an ice screw? I have some of those on my rack. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.