Looking for Town Crier Beta

[Lambone]

Hey All,

I plan to do the Crier in the next few days.

Any recomendations on gear rack? We plan to do it clean, but should we bring any pins or heads just in case? The pitches seem short, will doubles on sizes suffice or are tripples recomended. Any key "trick" pieces.

Cheater stick?

Would it be cool to sleep on smokeout ledge, or does it suck?

One other thing, what is the best descent? Can you rap the route? Any thoughts... Thanks

 

[erik]

bone,

standard rack is cool. if you have a cheater stick the boys down at the rifle range will blast you. though offsets are key for the "hard" pitches, the secret beta as with all aid climbing "high step!"

rap the route and do not do the last pitch to the top it is a waste of time and it means you have to rap one more pitch.

don't know why you would want to sleep on it. too much work getting all the shit up there.

enjoy! all new bolts on the route.

[Yossarian]

First off, I never did the route so my input is pretty much worthless.

However, I've been on the wall next to it, and smoke ledge looked to be a crappy place to call a home. The ledge is big enough, but the angle looked to be too steep for a comfortable bivy. I'm sure it could be done clean.

[specialed]

You can do TC in a few hours, esp. for a valley wall vet like yourself bone-dog. Its easy and short, with lots of fixed gear. Just take standard rack with some small tcu's and RP's - definetly hammerless. The guide says to do a pendulum or tension traverse on the first aid pitch (I think), but just keep going till you get to the roof and go left under the roof to get to the next crack system, w/o doing any tension or pend. Link the last two pitches together if you've got a 60m. Its probably easiest to rap the route because the descent trail is hard to find, I wandered around in the woods for almost an hour carrying all my gear until I found it. Its a fun route with good exposure, have an awesome time!

(Erik's right, last pitch is just a bolt ladder. Do it if you want, but if you don't you're not missing much.)

[This message has been edited by specialed (edited 07-02-2001).]

[Lambone]

Thanks Erik,

That sounds good. Well forget about smoke out and rap the route. Going clean shouldn't be any worries.

I don't care what anyone says about cheater sticks, I love 'um. Don't get me wrong, I love tricky aid, scary moves and top stepping , but if I can use the stick instead of pounding a pin or head I'm all about it. They save time and the rock. Hell aid climbing is cheating anyway.

Hey, Yoss. Did you do the Green Dragon. We are considering that one as well. Maybe The Green one day, sleep at the base, and Town the next. Mabye both in a day?? But only if we can rap both routes. Thanks Guys.

[This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-02-2001).]

[specialed]

Not to be a nit-picky anal retard, but the route's definetly not clean, there's tons of fixed shit on it. But its hammerless, cause you don't have to put anymore shit in it.

[Lambone]

Hmmm... Yeah, I see your point. Still, I consider any aid climb clean if you don't use your hammer, regardless of what is fixed. Shit, almost every route has a bolt, a rivet, or at least a fixed stopper or two. A long as you don't pound another one, you are doing it cean.

If you were doing a wall, and you had to leave one of your stoppers or cams fixed cause it was totaly stuck, would you say that you didn't do the route clean??

[This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-02-2001).]

[Lambone]

Hmmm... Since we accidentaly deposited our shit bags down the Nose should I NOT say that we did the Tripple Direct clean...heheheheee

[specialed]

Good point. maybe "technically" you wouldn't have done it all clean in that scenario. But you're right, the line between clean and not clean can be pretty blurry.

Espescially if you smeared shit all over it

[This message has been edited by specialed (edited 07-02-2001).]

[Peter_Puget]

Lambone,

I think the ledge you're thinking of (for a bivi) is "Big Honker" not "Smokeout." It's definately the best bivi location, if thats what you are looking for. The only pendo I have heard on TC is to join JG. Although both TC and JG are clean there is a variation first pitch A3?(I think starting in a thin crack off the ground just to the right if DH's first pitch)that has been climbed if you want to do some nailing.

[Lambone]

Hey Pete,

That pendo sounds cool, where yould you join GD?

[Peter_Puget]

Well I am guessing you could do it to join JG on either the second or third pitch. Years ago (and I do mean years) I did swung over to the second just for practice. So use your best judgement. I think if I was to do it again I would try the third BUT I havent been up there since the eighties.

[hollyclimber]

Lambone...when are you going up there? I might do it on Sunday. Definitely doing it next Tuesday, whether I do it this Sunday or not. Let us know how it goes. I understood that we had to do the pend., so now I am curious to see about climbing to the roof instead, if I can talk my partner into it.

Does any one else have a thought on whether or not the last pitch is really that lame?

[This message has been edited by hollyclimber (edited 07-02-2001).]

[specialed]

bolt ladder. Exposed. lame? you be the judge

[erik]

no you have to do the bolt ladder that links to green drag-on, or you won't have climbed the route. i am talkin about the final low 5th class pitch to the top of the wall. now that shit is worthless!

[Lambone]

Hey Specialed,

I thought that the last pitch erik was reffering to is the "easy fith class" scramble to the top. The pitch under that looks like it is a flring slot, up to a ladder, then some 5.9 w/ tricky pro. Is that the one you are talking about?

[Lambone]

Yeah, thanks erik...

Hey, would it be better to rap The Dragon or the Crier? Does it matter?

[This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-02-2001).]

[erik]

tc has better anchors. but i doubt you will die either way.

[Peter_Puget]

Holly -

I remember the pitches like this:

p1 5.8+ (DH route)

p2 5.9 Chimney

p3 5.10 thin crack to roof then A2 across and turning roof (Short)

p4 A2/3 Triple roofs - short better than p3.

p5 Next pitch short mostly free.(I took the opportunity to let my partner lead the flare)

p6 Flare then bolts then I remember cleaning gear and my partner whining on this pitch.

p7 Easy and very short.

Lambone

if people are climbing GD or TC think about rapping Lovin' Arms

 

[specialed]

Right, right. Yeah that one is worthless. The crappy slot leading to the sandbox, yugh!

Rapping TC would totally be doable, but I think (though I haven't done it) GD is more direct and straight. Probably should just start rapping and use whatever anchors you happen to come across

[Lambone]

Ok, so now pitch three has four pin scars, two fixed pin, and requires three second step moves and one top step move, two #5 HB's, and one green alien...

Does anyone have the supertopo?!?!?!?!?!

No really, thanks for the info y'all. Now I have a good plan in mind. Time to go do it and see what happens.

Hey Erik, so you can rap Love'n Arms, sweet... Do you think I would get shot from the range if I rap down and try the 11b pitch on top rope!!!! Ha,Ha...

[Cpt.Caveman]

Lammy if you want to climb like a hardman bolt clipper (we know you do) then just forget about TC and do Swim instead.

[Drederek]

Don't think LA is 11b anymore. When someone replaced the old buttonhead the footholds got "cleaned" also. It looked like an Arthur Murray dance lesson the last time I was on it. The pitch below that is the best one anyway. D

[Farrgo]

Ok, I just did Town Crier a few weeks ago. You are definately going to need something equivalent to a black/purple alien to get through the flared crack. Right off of the hanging belay there are a couple pretty good nut moves than there is this flaring pocket and a piton above that. My buddy tried to jam in a blue alien, it popped and he went sailing. I got on my top sub steps and still was about a foot short of reaching the pin. Eventually we taped two nut tools together and made a stick clip which still just barely reached. So either bring a small alien or stick clip, or go home i guess. Other than that the gear is all very standard. By the way has anybody ever free climbed town crier? There are some sections that look hard, but not too hard.

[Lambone]

holy cow, blast from the past!

 

nice job man!