Cairns Posted September 20, 2007 Posted September 20, 2007 My climbing schedule does not fit the usual mold. I work a 4-on 4-off week. Yesterday nobody called me up to ask, "Andy, do you want to go climbing today?". I felt antipathy. I decided to do something fun and anti-social. I drove up to Squamish using knowledge of when the sun swings around to: After hiking up to the base of Mercy Me I saw the other climbers were not following the herd, either: We discussed forming a club but were too busy. I attached 2 ropes to the Mercy Me belay and rapped to the first Cruel Shoes anchor. The plan was to solo toprope Apron Strings (fun and anti-social) and The Flake (no particular reason). I did each 3 times. There was a party on Peasant's and one on Exasperator but that was all. No one came to Apron Strings and there was no iconoclast on Iconoclast. I didn't have the persuasive power to acquire a good-looking red camalot at the start of Apron Strings. Though I did not successfully inconvenience anyone, climbing around in the bright September sunshine all by myself was I kinda wanted to see if the climbers on Exasperator would let me set my rope on it. I could rap to them and retrieve my lines fixed on Mercy Me later but I wasn't sure if one rope would get me down from the Cruel Shoes anchor. I set the rope for the rappel but then remembered I was anti-social. I used the 2 fixed skinny ropes to belay myself back up to the base of Mercy Me. After hiking down I saw that despite having no middle mark I had managed to perfectly equalize the ends of the rope I had left in rappel mode on the Cruel Shoes anchor. That was a mistake. The ends were within easy solo distance of the ground but 5 feet out of reach to the right. I set yet another self belay and made use of an undercling specially placed for lucky people to retrieve the rope. When I got home someone called and asked if I could climb on Thursday. Aww. Quote
G-spotter Posted September 20, 2007 Posted September 20, 2007 Gee, 12d underclinging wasn't fun enough by itself, so he seconded it with a pack on?! Quote
Drederek Posted September 21, 2007 Posted September 21, 2007 9 pitches of sandstone goodness in 1090! Quote
archenemy Posted September 21, 2007 Posted September 21, 2007 Wow! Phenomenal! All I did was go to work. Quote
Cairns Posted September 22, 2007 Author Posted September 22, 2007 Gee, 12d underclinging wasn't fun enough by itself, so he seconded it with a pack on?! That is alpine style. I'd like to think they started on Los Zapatos/ Genius Loci / Grinning Weasel. That could explain the pack. They had an exciting time on the free connection back to Perry's. Quote
plexus Posted September 24, 2007 Posted September 24, 2007 Went bouldering with the occasional sound of mountain bikers wizzing past below me. Took a while to warm up but ended up ticking two problems that had spit me off unceremoniously in the past. Enjoyed a nice sunset as the sun went behind the Rockies. But I didn't take purdy pictures like you. Quote
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