yesman Posted September 15, 2007 Posted September 15, 2007 Trip: Torment/Forbidden Traverse - Date: 9/7/2007 Trip Report: Greg and I climbed the Torment/Forbidden Traverse last week. Snow on the second day made the two v. three day decision for us and we bivied at the Forbidden West Ridge notch on night two. Only beta to add: The first rap after Torment goes overhung and then lands you in a 20' deep moat that requires crampons/tools to get out of. The ice traverse was mostly alpine ice, with a short stretch of water ice that took screws. Good access to snow for water at several points along the route. Great route! Gear Notes: Small rock rack, 2 screws, axe, tool and crampons Approach Notes: Taboo Glacier is straightforward Quote
rob Posted September 17, 2007 Posted September 17, 2007 great route, I bailed off that earlier due to a rockfall injury, and aborted several other attempts because of weather. I still want to go up and finish it. It's been on my list all year! Quote
syudla Posted September 25, 2007 Posted September 25, 2007 When we did the route, at the first rap I took a huge swing and timed the drop so that I didn't go in the moat. Partner didn't make it and I had to reel him in. Great route. Quote
512dude Posted September 25, 2007 Posted September 25, 2007 Nice end of year grab...anyone know of a winter ascent/traverse? Is the road fixed up at this point? Cheers, C Quote
goatboy Posted September 25, 2007 Posted September 25, 2007 I read that the road is open now. Fabulous photos! What was the itinerary? Day one -- into Boston Basin? Day two -- to W Ridge notch Day three -- Over summit and off via E Ledges Out to car? Quote
spicoli11 Posted September 25, 2007 Posted September 25, 2007 Road is fixed as of last week when I was up there Quote
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