Lake Oswego train track climbs

[Jeepenfool95]

 

B) There are many people who climb there who are beginners.

 

Climb at your own risk.

 

I just read this thread and I wanted to respond to this particular statement. Especially since, so many folks were kind enough to tell me that my grilfriend will likely kill me someday when she had an accident belaying.

 

Lake O is just a small crag that is enjoyed by a lot of beginners. I understand that climbing has risks associated it with it and there is no replacement for good judgment. However, beginners do need to pratice, and what better place to practice than an over bolted piece of rock next to some train tracks. It's not a pretty area, not a lot of people go there, and I'm fairly sure it won't be home to any world class climbers.

 

So... when I read a statement like "climb at your own risk" after referenceing the inconveince of beginners, I get a little frustrated. One of the aspects I most enjoy about climbing is the community of climbers. That people are generally looking out for one another. Though there seems to be some climbers out there that popped out of the womb hang dogging on 12a, and never had to go through the unfortunate status of being a "beginner".

 

I commend and thank whoever bolted the lines at Lake "O". Yeah the 11- is a little wierd, but nobody is twisting your arm to lead it iether. You give beginners crap because they need to "sack up" to lead something that is over there head, and then turn around and say another route doesn't have enough bolts in the right place. Seems inconsistant to me...

 

I think there bigger fish to fry than the climbing at Lake "O".

[Jeepenfool95]

One quick question...

 

I'm still getting used to using the site. I wanted my quote to appear in one of those cool little boxes. I used the quote button, but it still came out as a regualr reply. Should I have used the quick quote button instead?

[billcoe]

B) There are many people who climb there who are beginners.

 

 

Climb at your own risk.

 

I just read this thread and I wanted to respond to this particular statement. Especially since, so many folks were kind enough to tell me that my grilfriend will likely kill me someday when she had an accident belaying.

 

Lake O is just a small crag that is enjoyed by a lot of beginners. I understand that climbing has risks associated it with it and there is no replacement for good judgment. However, beginners do need to pratice, and what better place to practice than an over bolted piece of rock next to some train tracks. It's not a pretty area, not a lot of people go there, and I'm fairly sure it won't be home to any world class climbers.

 

So... when I read a statement like "climb at your own risk" after referenceing the inconveince of beginners, I get a little frustrated. One of the aspects I most enjoy about climbing is the community of climbers. That people are generally looking out for one another. Though there seems to be some climbers out there that popped out of the womb hang dogging on 12a, and never had to go through the unfortunate status of being a "beginner".

 

I commend and thank whoever bolted the lines at Lake "O". Yeah the 11- is a little wierd, but nobody is twisting your arm to lead it iether. You give beginners crap because they need to "sack up" to lead something that is over there head, and then turn around and say another route doesn't have enough bolts in the right place. Seems inconsistant to me...

 

I think there bigger fish to fry than the climbing at Lake "O".

 

One trick question...

 

I'm still getting used to using the site. I wanted my quote to appear in one of those cool little boxes. I used the quote button, but it still came out as a regualr reply. Should I have used the quick quote button instead?

 

Click the "quote" button under the post when you respond. BTW, there is no bigger fish to fry currently as this is the only fish currently on the plate. Inconsistent describes all of us.

 

Take care

Edited September 13, 2007 by billcoe

[billcoe]

The quote code looks like this

hey bubba, is yer sister nekkid? Give ya a quarter is I can look.

 

start = quote=nosepicker in between is [ ] with the Q on quote the first letter, no space, and the R on nosepicker the last letter before the second bracket.

 

finish =

 

Start =

 

Do this excercise: take the start and finsih code and put some words between them.

 

 

maybe thats not clear? People manipulate your text as quoted all the time and sometimes it's pretty funny. For instance, note that I changed quick to trick to demo this effect.

 

Enjoy.

Edited September 13, 2007 by billcoe

[MATT_B]

OK, I'm a little curious about this place now. Where is it? I know where Lake O is. But from there ? ? ?

[Jeepenfool95]

Thanks I'll have to practice. I want to be cool like everybody else

 

And thank you for letting me vent...

 

 

[kevbone]

 

You give beginners crap because they need to "sack up" to lead something that is over there head,

 

I am not giving anybody crap of any kind. I just think bolting a crag just for “beginners” is weak…..IMO.

 

I was always taught……bolts only go in where there is NO pro…..that is not the case in LO…..there are bolts in right next to perfectly good gear placements.

 

To teach “beginners” that bolts are “the way to go” is not what I think we should be teaching out younger and more inexperienced climbers. I was taught to climb on natural gear from the first moment I ever put a harness on. I was also taught to climb at my own risk.

 

[dan_forester]

OK, I'm a little curious about this place now. Where is it? I know where Lake O is. But from there ? ? ?

 

start in downtown LO by the starbucks, walk north one block, then west two blocks, pass three clothing boutiques, a gourmet chocolate place and another starbucks, then stop and listen for the telltale sounds of a bolting ethics debate. you'll find it no problem.

[kevbone]

Your awesome Dan......

[billcoe]

Thanks I'll have to practice. I want to be cool like everybody else

 

And thank you for letting me vent...

 

 

Stick around. Didn't see you as venting as much as sharing. You'll soon see that I'm always right anyway.

 

See, what Kev says above is 100% true. I totally and fully agree, but I already defined this issue differently, more fully, and in my mind it's not fully framed in his post, but it was in mine.

 

He asked.

I thought I gave him the definitive answer.

 

If you note, he starts out appearing to say its overbolted because of the cracks, then he later comes and says there are not enough bolts

Then he says he won't fix the huge potential issue he discovered.

 

When one of the upper rocks fell off and one of the 2 anchor bolts was wiggling with finger tension, I was ready to pop a new on in immediately. Why not? (someone beat me to it)

 

Now most places, you just don't just show up and pop a bolt in. It isn't done for many reasons, but that is not the case here. Kev's a pretty strong climber, that he felt he got sandbagged at this little sh*thole says something. For me, I'd look up and see this about to occur and avoid the route. Maybe do the next one 15" over and toprope this one. I'm a pussy though. I don't let beginners belay me for that very reason. I'm afraid. Maybe it is or can be argued that it's an opportunity for a beginner to learn about such things. I don't know. All I know is that I know that this isn't the place for an accident. I agree with the dudes who put the bolts in.

 

As far as your assertion that world class climbers don't climb at this shitho*e: probably not true. They get burns in all kinds of areas and in the damnedest of places.

 

But alas........3 weeks later we are still discussing this smelly old fish on this small little plate.

 

[Jeepenfool95]

OK, I'm a little curious about this place now. Where is it? I know where Lake O is. But from there ? ? ?

 

start in downtown LO by the starbucks, walk north one block, then west two blocks, pass three clothing boutiques, a gourmet chocolate place and another starbucks, then stop and listen for the telltale sounds of a bolting ethics debate. you'll find it no problem.

 

That's funny...

[billcoe]

 

 

Thats funny Dan.

 

Ck yer pms snaileye

[Jeepenfool95]

The quote code looks like this

hey bubba, is yer sister nekkid? Give ya a quarter is I can look.

 

I'll give you two quarters for a scratch and sniff picture...

 

start = quote=nosepicker in between is [ ] with the Q on quote the first letter, no space, and the R on nosepicker the last letter before the second bracket.

 

finish =

 

Start =

 

Do this excercise: take the start and finsih code and put some words between them.

 

 

maybe thats not clear? People manipulate your text as quoted all the time and sometimes it's pretty funny. For instance, note that I changed quick to trick to demo this effect.

 

Enjoy.

 

I think I'm getting the hang of it now. I quoted myself with a statement I never made... Ahhhh it makes my brain hurt. Anyway I could see where you could really irritate the Pi$$ out of someone by manipulating their quote.

 

Here is a silly question... Is this just straight HTML code, or is it something else?

[Jeepenfool95]

As far as your assertion that world class climbers don't climb at this shitho*e: probably not true. They get burns in all kinds of areas and in the damnedest of places.

 

I wouldn't say that a world class climber may not stop by for a burn, rather I don't think the site will be hosting any major compettions or conventions.

 

I like reading about the ethics of bolting though. In fact I'm very happy that I live in area that does bolt. I'm still a member of another climbing post "NE Rock Club", and those guys in CT are a little nuts about the no bolting issue. There are no, from my understanding, bolted routes in Connecticut, not even bolted anchors.

 

Anyway... I think I'm going to day dream about my upcoming trip.

[kevbone]

 

Now most places, you just don't just show up and pop a bolt in. It isn't done for many reasons, but that is not the case here. Kev's a pretty strong climber, that he felt he got sandbagged at this little sh*thole says something. For me, I'd look up and see this about to occur and avoid the route. I'm a pussy though. I don't let beginners belay me for that very reason. I'm afraid. Maybe it is or can be argued that it's an opportunity for a beginner to learn about such things. I don't know. All I know is that I know that this isn't the place for an accident. I agree with the dudes who put the bolts in.

 

 

So…..so everybody in this discussion understands what I said and am still saying…..

 

I just go back from there 15 minutes ago…..just traversed the bottom a couple of times to get a pump……

 

I FOR SURE saw bolts within 12 inches of CLEAN, PERFECT, BOMBER placements. The second climb from the right….is a bolted crack.

 

As far as me saying its run out……I believe with a little more thought…..they could have placed the bolts in league with the gear and you would never deck…..even for a beginner.

 

I never said I got sand bagged……matter of fact….I thought the grades are inflated. What he is calling 10- and 10+….I thought was 5.9…..I am not bragging…..I first climbed there without a guide and had no idea what the grades are. I did feel the 11- was an 11-……I gave it that grade after climbing it…..then latter received the guide and nailed in on the head.

 

I spied about 15 bolts from the ground that were within 12 inches of less of a perfect crack…….

 

 

What ever….it really does not matter. I am most likely never going to climb there again…..my company is moving out of LO and I live north of here by quite a bit……to bad I just recently just found out about it……I would have climbed there on my lunch for the past year and a half……cheers.

 

[billcoe]

Ujahn was telling the david, who handed us the guide I sent you, that the roptes were like 5.8 when he pulls out that paper which said they were 5.10

 

Snaileye couldn't find the directions, this should get you close:

 

Close to downtown, @ 1-1/2 blks north of the Lake.

 

Take Country club turn S on Iron Mt, head to North shore blvd or Bertwick to Cabana. Park at that space right at the RR tracks (see on the mapquest map). Look west @ 1/2 a city block right down the tracks, theres a shitty little bolted rat hole right there. It's a roadcut for the RR.

 

link mapquest

 

 

Kev, so you won't be trad climbing ans skipping bolts ? You folks moving to Skamania?