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Posted

Trip: Ruth Mountain -

 

Date: 8/30/2007

 

Trip Report:

With Thursday off of work and a golden weather forecast, I convinced my buddy John to abandon his house painting project for a day and climb Ruth Mountain. We left Kirkland at 6:30 and arrived at the Hannegan Pass trailhead at about 9:00 after a short stop at the Glacier ranger station. By 9:30 we were moving easily up the valley, almost imperceptively gaining elevation, and slowing only enough to avoid the large piles of horse poo.

 

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We reached Hannegan Pass at 11:15, and consulted the route description.

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Things got slightly confusing due to the spider web of paths, but the key here is to drop down, heading towards the large knob (pt 5930) in the ridge southeast of the pass and the large gash heading straight up it towards the hourglass-shaped rubble pile. This gully is a rutty, muddy, slick mess. Not especially difficult, but entirely unpleasant; and coming back down it was definitely the crux of the entire trip. We were glad we didn't have overnight packs! After huffing up the gully, we rounded the knob on the east side and crossed the very pleasant saddle which lead us up the rocky lower portion of Ruth. We only had two liters of water each, and it was pretty hot; so we filled our bottles with snow when we stopped to rope up (1:10 PM, 5950 feet). The remainder of the route we just followed the path of least resistance to the summit on mildly soft snow, with crampons on. Just downhill of the large rock outcropping there are some crevasses running perpendicular, but we just stayed under them and headed off to the right to continue up the ridge to the summit, which we reached at about 2 PM. I have to say that the views on this climb are probably the most spectacular I've yet seen. Both John and I were totally in awe at the summit view, especially Shuksan. Every direction offered vast views to lofty, rugged, snow and glacier-clad mountains. I'll let the photos speak for themselves...

 

Looking east from Ruth Mountain. Can someone ID these peaks for me?

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Panoramic looking north

 

pan1.jpg

 

Ruth Creek valley

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Summit

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Icy peak from the summit

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The return trip was largely uneventful. I refilled my bottles with snow, and John opted to fill his bottles with water from a snowmelt pool next to the trail on the northeast side of Pt 5930, topping it off with some iodine tablets for good measure.

 

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John took a nasty spill in the gully, bruising his hand but otherwise escaping unscathed from the unauthorized trail dance. Let's just say that the walk back down the valley is the longest 3 miles ever.

 

Kirkland to Trailhead: 2 hrs 30 min

Trailhead to Hannegan Pass: 1 hr 45 min

Hannegan Pass to Glacier: 1 hr 35 min

Glacier to Summit: 40 min

 

 

Gear Notes:

Gear – Crampons, ax, rope, pooper scooper, etc

 

 

Approach Notes:

Plenty of water opportunities

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Posted

I did this with my wife a couple summers ago and you are right about that gully....I took a couple spills in there as well and had to veggie arrest to avoid injury - I was freaked out about my wife getting hurt.

Posted (edited)
Pickets to the East.

So would the left group be Redoubt/Spickard and the right group be Whatcom/Challenger, or would it be Whatcom/Challenger and Terror?

Edited by Noodle
Posted

Great pictures, I just wish the panoramas were larger so we could see details.

 

I was up there July 11th skiing and wish we'd been earlier so we could have just run up the north face with more snow to facilitate the traverse over, thus avoiding the dreaded knob. The crux for us was traversing firm snow on the east side of the knob without crampons (stupidly left home because we thought the hot day would soften the snow for easy kicking, but a brisk wind and early start made for firm conditions all the way to the summit).

 

I'd been wanting to get up there for years to take in the view and have to agree that it is about as good as it gets, both views and skiing.

Posted

I did Ruth earlier this year as a fun family backpacking trip (the gully wasn't too fun with full packs, but it was dry when we did it). We hoped to climb Icy Peak too, but the weather came in and we hiked out.

 

I'll take a stab at naming some of the peaks. On the left are Whatcom Peak and Challenger (with the big glacier). Then the Northern Pickets: Ghost, Crooked Thumb, Phantom, Swiss, Fury. Southern Pickets: you can see Inspiration Peak and the two Macmillan spires.

Posted
Great pictures, I just wish the panoramas were larger so we could see details.

 

Check out all the photos on my Picasaweb site. I've also uploaded three full sized panoramics (see links below). You can't view them full size on the web, but if you click "Download Photo" you'll get the full size.

 

http://picasaweb.google.com/adamlandefeld/RuthMountain8302007/photo#5108814520945512994

http://picasaweb.google.com/adamlandefeld/RuthMountain8302007/photo#5108814787233485394

http://picasaweb.google.com/adamlandefeld/RuthMountain8302007/photo#5109513998281986098

 

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