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On my way to Reno for work this summer, I had the pleasure of spending 10 days in The Meadows. I was in contact with a few folks who were doing new route developing at Dozier Dome and a few other places.

The first morning I drove up to take in the stunning view down on half-dome:

 

 

 

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The first day we went up to Dozier, with a nice view of Tenaya Lake from the ledge where they were working on a new .10:

 

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I got the second ascent of "Tourettes", so named cuz the rock was so hard John was swearing the whole time he was hand-drilling (I thought of the name):

 

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We had a nice bivy spot that was free. Evening light from the spot:

 

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After a few beers, Greg Barnes and Brian Law broke out their replacement kits for "still life with King Cobra":

 

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George showing off his crack'n up collection:

 

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Then it was time for a bolting lesson:

 

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I did some free-soloing on Dozier the next day. Soloed Holdless Horror (3p 5.7), BullDozier (3p 5.7), and a new 5.6 slab that felt like 5.8. This was in preparation for my Grand Plan of soloing as many of the Echo Peaks as I could one day, and Matthes Crest the next. A day of rest (belaying FA's, actually), got my overnight permit and left the Cathedral parking lot at 5 AM. The sunrise on the way in:

 

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When I got to Budd Lake it was still early and I got some good shots.

 

Echo Peaks in Budd Lake:

 

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The sweeping Echo Ridge:

 

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A nice close-up of Cathedral:

 

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I got to the notch between Budd Lake and Ech Lake, looked at the 7 Echo Peaks and decided the first three were way too commiting, so I did the last four and the ridge to above Budd Lake. There was some scary-ass 5.7 climbing at the obvious sharp tooth in the middle left. Looking back up from the descent:

 

 

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I got back to the pass in about 2-1/2 hours round trip, but was mentally exhausted from route-finding (I had no topo for Echo, only Matthes).

 

Looking back from Echo Lake to the traverse I did:

 

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..and the West view of the mile-long Matthes Ridge:

 

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I set up camp, and enjoyed a nice sunset. The reflection of the South end of Matthes:

 

 

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and Matthes proper in evening light:

 

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I woke up the next morning and hiked to the notch at the South end of Matthes Crest. Looking along the mile of traversing, I realized I was not mentally prepared for two hard, full days of free-soloing and hiking in a row. I should have gotten two nights so I could have a rest day. So I hiked across to Matthes lake and out the East side of the Crest. Looking back from the other side:

 

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The next morning, I got up early as usual, and caught some more alpine light:

 

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Then off to meet the crew for Sunday coffee in the Lot:

 

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Left to right: Brian Law, George, and Greg Barnes:

 

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George sorting bolting gear for the day:

 

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Brian leading some 5.10:

 

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I stayed in the park late that night to catch the sunset and full moon-rise:

 

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Nice light in the trees:

 

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The following day we went to Mariluolumne Dome and I soloed Hobbit Book, the most exhilirating free-solo I have ever done (all my solo's were onsights). We did some other new stuff they had put up and enjoyed the shade for the day. Then back to camp.

 

The next morning I headed out early enough to catch sunrise at Mono Lake.

 

 

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Going back this weekend to meet up with Russ Walling and Medium Sooz for some more fun. 3 hours from Reno!

 

Erik

 

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