blownout

[markd]

yesterday, stewart took a 50 foot fall on blownout and broke his foot. all the gear is still on the route. if anyone does this climb and gets the gear today, please pm me as it's not booty. i have a wedding today or i would go get it right now.

 

thanks.

[ivan]

jeebus! where was he on the route when he fell? gear failure? as hard as blownout is, i've always thought "well, at least there's lots of gear on it"...

 

raining alot today - i might head over after school today and see if i can't rap the route and clean it all out for you

[eldiente]

Sorry to hear that Mark. I was going to go out there myself but went for a wet bike ride instead. Was the rock a little slick up there?

 

-Nate

[billcoe]

Hi Mark, I'd heard this but thought you were gonna get the gear.

 

Heard Snoop was not wearing a helmet and banged his head, glad to hear he'll be ok.

 

Shit, I miss all the fun.

________________________________________________________________

 

Hey Ivan , good to see you on it, and not to sound like an elderly person, but be careful eh?

 

hell no! we here at the FOTPI (Friends Of The Poison Ivy) are daily burning effigies of your insensitive ass now!!!!

 

Watch the Oak on your rope as you rap.

[Stewart]

Yeah, I screwed up!

 

I got to an easy section on Blownout and ran it out. Was feeling really good, placed a yellow tcu below what was my crux about 2/3 up on pitch #2. Got into the crux and ran out of gas. Yelled to my partner that I was shaky and to take. I believe when the rope came tight my piece was pulled up. I then decided I should give it a go, at the same time my piece popped and my partner informed me of that. I looked down at my last piece maybe 15-18ft below. Thought "can you place a piece" answer "no, your in a pumped out lie back" That is the nightmare that will stick with me forever. Made one move up to see if I could get a better stance and took the biggest whipper I hope to never take again. ended up 10ft above the anchor upside down.

 

I have replayed in my head over and over what could have been done different. I've come up with a few answers but looks like "blood, sweat and smears" will have to wait till next year.

 

Hairline fracture in Left ankle, partner has rope burn on hand, and one humbling experience to make you appreciate the little things.

 

Thanks to anyone who gets the gear. Just try to remember which one held the whipper. Its going on my wall with my X-rays as a reminder to place more gear and wear a helmet.

 

Stewart

Edited August 20, 2007 by Stewart

[kevbone]

John.....glad to know only your foot is broken instead of your head.....Dave is driving your car to the wedding today....a little weird to see your car infront of my house all night and not be drinking beers with you inside. Hope all is well....see you at the wedding.

 

bone

[Cobra_Commander]

Ugh. Glad it wasn't worse. I keep placing gear to dump a bit of baggage before pulling that bulge. That's where my only yellow tcu goes! Wouldn't want to take that fall on b.s.& s. Good to see all of you on Sat. I was grunting up dod's and looked down to see a bunch of hungover dudes lounging below windsurfer.

[billcoe]

Yeah, I screwed up!

 

I got to an easy section on Blownout and ran it out. Was feeling really good, placed a yellow tcu below what was my crux about 2/3 up on pitch #2. Got into the crux and ran out of gas. Yelled to my partner that I was shaky and to take. I believe when the rope came tight my piece was pulled up. I then decided I should give it a go, at the same time my piece popped and my partner informed me of that. I looked down at my last piece maybe 15-18ft below. Thought "can you place a piece" answer "no, your in a pumped out lie back" That is the nightmare that will stick with me forever. Made one move up to see if I could get a better stance and took the biggest whipper I hope to never take again. ended up 10ft above the anchor upside down.

 

I have replayed in my head over and over what could have been done different. I've come up with a few answers but looks like "blood, sweat and smears" will have to wait till next year.

 

Hairline fracture in Left ankle, partner has rope burn on hand, and one humbling experience to make you appreciate the little things.

 

Thanks to anyone who gets the gear. Just try to remember which one held the whipper. Its going on my wall with my X-rays as a reminder to place more gear and wear a helmet.

 

Stewart

 

Whoahhh Snoop, thats like real close to a full pitch fall. Sounds more like closer to 100' of air, I'm getting testicular shrinkage just thinking of it.

 

BTW: given all the (tested!) yellow Alien failures that have been occuring......

 

Whew....glad you're still with us. Heres a dude that had a new, tensile tested (alledgelly) yellow alien fail.

 

Soulders crack alien failure groundfall

 

 

 

 

[Cobra_Commander]

I don't think it was an alien bill but the rock-solid time-tested yellow #2 metolius! I always fall on that thing, to the point I hesitate to place it. If you're belaying me and I place two of them in a row, get ready!

[billcoe]

Thanks for the early heads up CC ! Were you belaying Stewart this time?

 

Sorry, re-read it and saw the "TCU" spelled out. I've been taking MY Yellow Alien up that route lately:-(

Edited August 20, 2007 by billcoe

[Cobra_Commander]

no, I was at home sleeping after a night of debauchery. I just read "tcu" and assumed the beloved old yeller metolius.

[markd]

cobra,

if you were up on dod's saturday afternoon i have some pics of you i took from the tracks, though i had no idea it was you. i also took some of mark cartier on blood, sweat and smears.

 

two cheers for snoop!

[Cobra_Commander]

Yeah I thought I saw you down on the tracks there. Looks like you could have checked out my nosehairs with the hardware you had down there.

 

Mark C., of course, tearing it up like he always seems to do.

[pink]

sounds like beacon got some lovin this week, thanks to brians wedding.

 

stewart, sorry to hear that man.

[JosephH]

I missed Sunday after the ass-whooping I got with Mark Cartier on Saturday. Whew Jon, I thought mine was a pretty stout reality check until I just read yours! Man sounds like a real flying lesson. Glad to hear you landed relatively safely...

[wayne]

Glad to hear you are ok, any follow up on the gear?

[ivan]

seems to be raining too hard here in camas right now to think about climbing at beacon - guess i'll have to wait till 2morrow to get my fix in and see what's what

[Cobra_Commander]

Not to stir up trouble or change the subject, but could someone explain to me the anchor on dod's by that tree? How do people usually set up a belay up there? There's good gear for a gear anchor at the perch, but then I see that big fat bolt up there behind the tree... why not have the bolts down on the perch? Sorry if I'm missing something obvious. I ended up just hanging on it and quickly belaying my partner up that offwidth bit, then taking off from there after tying in my belayer so he could hang out on the perch. Next time I'm just building an anchor. PM me if you don't want it sprayed on here.

[ivan]

what? that old rusty ring-pin not good enough for ya?

 

there used to be bolts right at the top of the perch, which i miss - the stuff above the tree is wierd b/c you have to climb up to clip into them before coming back down to the perch (guess you could just hang up there, but that's even wierder)- there is gear on the perch of course, but it's kinda funky and as newbies often fumble w/ the .9 below i want something damn solid to hold them in case - i usually end up using tree bolt setup for a top rope and build a gear anchor for myself at the perch

[JosephH]

At one time long ago there was an anchor on the perch. Jim Opdycke and I reestablished it in lieu of rapping off the tree, but that met with an unfavorable response and so was removed. Part of the deal with the WSP and BRSP relative to the anchor replacement project was their explicit desire to have anchors off trees - and that is the sole purpose of that anchor, as a substitute for the nest of slings on the tree - neither that anchor nor the tree itself were ever meant as a belay anchor, but rather to allow retreat for folks who can't make it up Dodds.

 

That's the story there, now back to empathizing with Jon...

[Cobra_Commander]

Thanks for the background, all I needed to know.

[billcoe]

Can I have your cams

Can I borrow your cams?

 

Uhhh, how long will you be laid up Jon?

[Stewart]

Ahhh! beers and vicoden!

 

Laid up 4-6weeks, then wine harvest begins and i'm pretty busy for the rest of the year.

 

Don't suspect I'll be climbing till January.

 

Anyone who gets the gear will get a liquid reward for sure!

 

Stewart

[ivan]

it was all out as of this evening - who got it? what's the verdict - which was the piece that caught you? jim has an arch-nuts'n'hexes snobbery theory to blame it all on, of course

 

love the carcass situation on the corner route currently - desicated fish heads on the traverse - two seagull wings connected by a wishbone at the slab belay - assorted blue-jay debris from the tree ledge on up - aerial-grendels at work, no doubt - would be a whole different climb if i had to contend w/ man-eating deranged fucking avians the whole way firsure

 

saw that big block on the traverse was cut loose - wish i coulda seen it!

[kevbone]

I will say the anchor behind the tree on Dods is problematic and needs to disappear. If you rap on the tree…..so be it….the next one up will clean the mess. But there is no need for bolts or pins anywhere near that tree or on that ledge. There is a gear anchor there.