[TR] Static Point (Sultan, WA) - Online and Lost Charms 8/15/2007

[mattp]

I am well aware of the recall, Mark.

[Mark_L]

Most of the anchors are A3 piles of shit.

 

If you needed to do A3 moves up there, perhaps you need to hone your friction climbing skills some more!

 

See: The Bridge Flake Pitch on Lost Charms

[Toast]

He must be one of them crack climbers

[JayB]

I think my last trip out there was in 2004 or thereabouts, but by that time I think that pretty much all of the bolts on the routes that start at Tombstone Ledge had been replaced, American Pie had been replaced, and there were 3/8" bolts of more recent vintage either adjacent to old Leeper hardware, or placed in holes once occupied by old Leeper hardware, in place near the harder climbing on Online/Offline - and I think there's been some work done since then.

 

The rock quality is incredible, the crowds are well nigh non-existent, the setting is incredible, and the few routes that I've done out there were enjoyable and memorable. Anyone who lives within a couple hours of Static should be thankful for what they've got - Leeper hardware and all. I look forward to checking out more of that crag when the exile is over...

[ivan]

just got out there for the first time last friday - had the whole place to ourselves for the whole day - woulda been nice to have had a guidebook 'sides nelsons as we mostly ended up climbing godknowswhat - wierd shit to walk away w/ totally fresh muscles in the arms and back, yet completly pumped out calves

[Toast]

:lmao:

[David Yount]

In my humble opinion: Static Point is the Finest slab climbing in North America outside of the state of California. Certainly better than Squamish's slabs.

 

I agree! And I'll include the entire state of California as well (Suicide Rock and Toulumne come to mind as well as the Apron in Yosemite as examples of excellent Cali granite slab).

Edited September 19, 2012 by David Yount

[David Yount]

One nice thing about forces on junk gear on really low angle slabs is that the forces are suuuuuuper low.

 

I've caught 2 leader falls at Static Point. Both times I arrested them with one hand directly holding the rope. Wasn't planned that way, I was just pulling in rope thru my belay device as they were sliding down. It just so happened that when the rope went tight, my left hand was grabbing more rope and pulling down, to feed back thru my belay device.

 

Both times my left hand held their fall. I'd guess the force on my hand was well less than 60 pounds. That would make the force on the bolt well well under 1kN (225 pounds).

[David Yount]

 

In general climbing is good from March to early November, but never on sunny summer days at Static Point.

 

 

September, 2012

Before you drive out to climb at Static Point it's easily worthwhile to place a phone call to ask if the South Shore Gate is open at Spada Resevoir. The gate is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week from May 1 to October 31, except for 1) roadwork, or 2) dangerous conditions. And in my experience it's not rare for them to decide there exist dangerous conditions, and they have roadwork to perform every year during Spring to Fall.

 

The Snohomish PUD contols the gate and their website will give the gate's status. But the actual page with the gate's status is buried in several layers of choices and the navigation is not intuitive nor descriptive. But here's the URL as of September 2012:

http://www.snopud.com/PowerSupply/hydro/jhp/jhprecreation/jhpsultan.ashx?p=1500

 

425.783.1774 Karen Bedrossian (or her subsequent replacement)

425.783.8804 Barry Chrisman

 

If you don't reach either of them you can call the main number and seek other suggestions from the operator

425.783.1744, or 877.783.1000

 

option 0 to speak to an operator at Snohomish PUD and ask them about the current status of the South Shore Gate at Spada Resevoir. Ask the operator for the direct phone number and the full name of the person they will connect you with, for your records.

 

If the gate is closed, you can still climb at Static Point, just add 3 miles of casual downhill mtn biking or hiking.

 

Sometimes you must park at the registration station at Olney Pass if the right gate, South Shore Road, is closed. The right gate is the South Shore Road, take this. The three miles (on road Nf-6129 around the reservoir / lake) to the decommissioned spur road is gently and consistently downhill (fast and easy on a mtn bike). When you arrive at a large bridge (crossing the inlet to Spada Resevoir), the spur road is just past on the right and is blocked by several boulders and a large snag placed crosswise. Park here. You used to be able to drive part of this spur road, but now you park in a pullout on the South Shore Road.

 

You can climb all year long at Static Point. Several routes were first climbed in January. The granite slab faces south and dries relatively quickly. In the winter when it's a sunny day the climbing can be at it's best, as the friction of climbing shoe rubber reaches it's maximum at 49F, I've read. If the South Shore Gate is not opened and if there isn't snow at the 2000-foot Olney Pass, then a casual 3 mile downhill mtn bike ride accesses the old spur road (this spur road can be biked for a few minutes but quickly turns into hiking only because of dozens of deep gorges cut into the road).

 

 

--

 

Sky Valley Rock, 2000 by Darryl Cramer is the only full coverage of Static Point of 20 routes (there are several new quality routes since 2000).

Weekend Rock, 2005 by David Whitelaw has 8 routes with very good beta.

Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Volume 2, 2000 by Jim Nelson has 3 routes with very good beta.

Rock Climbing Washington, 1999 by Jeff Smoot has 10 routes but it also has several errors.