[TR] Snow Creek Wall - Galaxy - A Gardener's Dream 7/29/2007

[512dude]

Trip: Snow Creek Wall - Galaxy - A Gardener's Dream

 

Date: 7/29/2007

 

Trip Report:

[font:Microsoft Sans Serif]Craig and I went to try some other route on Snow Creek Wall besides Orbit, Outer Space, Iconoclast or Hyperspace as those seem most popular. We decided to give Galaxy (FA 1966) a run since it goes at .8/.9 for about 9 or so odd pitches. The guidebook doesn't say much more than pro to 3" and wandering up the gully to the left of Iconoclast. With a later start we didn't end up finishing the route but I am curious if any others have been on this thing?? We ended up doing a bunch of bush bashing

 

P1: Start up what best figures as the easier entry to the gully system 5.6 and pass slings atop of the first set of blocks. Move up and right thru bushes to find gear and then step further right on good face moves to continue up until reaching the 2nd set of slings 20' higher.

 

P2: Continue up the corner/crack/gulley system 5.7, to a two pin rap/belay station. (We climbed past this and enjoyed building our own belay about 30ft. below the tree and at the bottom of a left trending rotten crack that lulls one out on the chossy face and towards a stew of slings and a small dying shrub-ask me how I know!)

 

P3: From the 2 pin belay continue up the corner/crack with fine stemming and jamming, 5.8+, until 30ft. below the tree. Move up and right and get good gear in cracks on right. Traverse back left across a thin ledge and a blank face (no protection) and into a rotten layback crack reaching the tree from the right.

 

P4: Continue up from the tree in the ramp and crack system leading up to another bush and another rotten corner. 15 feet up this corner reaches another lesge and belay point.

 

At this point we decided to bail since we spent too much time getting lost and gardening the route. Kramer's hand drawn topo of the wall is somewhat misleading and we ended up trying to follow his line and getting off route. The third pitch is great but overall the climb would be much better if it would see more traffic. Good gear but way too much greenery on the route that we had to bash thru or tear out. The cracks were also very dirty and required much cleaning for us to place gear and proceed. It felt more like landscaping then climbing. We later discovered that the slings on the chossy face and dying shrub are useful for bailing from the route. A single 60m doesn't go from the tree to the 2 pin rap below so one must use the intermediate station.

 

I'd like to go back and finish the line but from below, the route finding for the next 4-5 pitches looks just as wonder filled as some of the earlier stuff. Anyone else been on this route?

 

Has anyone else done any of the other routes at Snow Creek Wall and can they recommend any of them either than those I listed? What about Mary Jane Dhdrl?[/font]

 

Approx line looking up from the base

 

P2 looking mossy but protectable

 

Into the great stemming and 5.8+ corner

 

The traverse across the thin ledge and unprotected face

 

 

Looking down P4 and at the tree ledge

 

Gear Notes:

small + med hexes

full set of nuts 4-13 BD

1,2,3,4 Met Cams

.5,.75,1,2,3 BD Cams

12 slings include 2x4'

bail webbing

 

Approach Notes:

Follow approach for Snow Creek Wall.

Edited July 30, 2007 by 512dude

[Otto]

Mary Jane Dihedral is a very good route. I've done it a couple of times. The crux is right at the top of the dihedral, moving out left onto face holds.

[G-spotter]

i would recommend you never go alpine climbing if you don't like gardening or bushes.

[Telemack]

I second the rec. for MJ dihedral---very clean, though a wierd hanging stance atop the first corner pitch, backing up old 1/4-inchers. Tough for the grade. Starts and finishes on Orbit.

 

Anyone done the Blast Off start to Orbit? Could be a good alt./another thing to do on SC Wall.

[plexus]

I think the multiple usage of the words "rotten" and "bushy" is a reason why it hasn't seen so much traffic, especially with "classics" right on the same wall.

 

I however seem to have an affinity to such routes - the path less taken mentality. It isn't climbing unless you come back with some shrubbery scratches on ya.

 

Did you guys rap the route or is there a way to escape left?

[512dude]

We rapped from the top of P4. If you go and finish it please share your exploration of this old "classic".

 

Cheers

C

[pope]

Many years ago we went up to do Iconoclast. Somehow we missed the exit out of the big corner and started up Hyperspace. After realizing our mistake, and thinking we probably didn't have the right rack for Hyperspace, we went out left...I think it was the last pitch of Galaxy. It was terribly dirty, and I remember placing a nut way up under a squeeze roof chimney thing before traversing further left. My partner wasn't small enough to squirm up and reach or even unclip the piece, so he went back to the belay and untied. I pulled the rope and threw it back down. There were some tense moments because we weren't sure I could throw the rope in a place where he'd be able to grab it. It all worked out, but I wasn't left with the desire to climb the complete route.

[beavertail]

I climbed Galaxy (also Remorse and Mary Jane) many years ago. Galaxy turned out to be a mini epic in route finding and variety of climbing problems. It took us a good 12 hours to finish. I think the crux is about 2/3 the way up.. or maybe a bit higher... just below the relatively easy roof traverse at the top. The crux, to me anyway, was a widely flaring flake that you have to chimney facing out! Only time I got vertigo was in that position. My partner, who led the pitch fell out at the top of the flare as he repositioned by turning back to the face to do a few moderate face moves. Took a 40 footer from the top to the base. I ended up hand over handing up to his last pro and finished the pitch. The last bit was pretty easy but we were fairly wiped out from the mind bending issues associated with route finding. Actually, as a trad climber, this is why I climb.

 

Mary Jane is OK. Route finding again a bit dicy once you turn the roof corner about half way up. I ended up doing a none reported 5.11 variation traverse, slightly above Carlas traverse, and hooked back up with Orbit and easy ground.

 

Remorse is aptly named. long runouts on tiny chickenheads with poor protection. Had sort of a sinking feeling in my belly after completing it realizing the long runouts (one with ful 60 meter and only two bolts). If you are a decent face climber it can be fun in a sick way.