beavertail

Has anyone been up the Lake Serene trail lately? Is it snow free? Blowdowns?

To rest is not to conquer... Put your left foot forward and your right will always follow... A fartin horse never tires...

I climbed Galaxy (also Remorse and Mary Jane) many years ago. Galaxy turned out to be a mini epic in route finding and variety of climbing problems. It took us a good 12 hours to finish. I think the crux is about 2/3 the way up.. or maybe a bit higher... just below the relatively easy roof traverse at the top. The crux, to me anyway, was a widely flaring flake that you have to chimney facing out! Only time I got vertigo was in that position. My partner, who led the pitch fell out at the top of the flare as he repositioned by turning back to the face to do a few moderate face moves. Took a 40 footer from the top to the base. I ended up hand over handing up to his last pro and finished the pitch. The last bit was pretty easy but we were fairly wiped out from the mind bending issues associated with route finding. Actually, as a trad climber, this is why I climb. Mary Jane is OK. Route finding again a bit dicy once you turn the roof corner about half way up. I ended up doing a none reported 5.11 variation traverse, slightly above Carlas traverse, and hooked back up with Orbit and easy ground. Remorse is aptly named. long runouts on tiny chickenheads with poor protection. Had sort of a sinking feeling in my belly after completing it realizing the long runouts (one with ful 60 meter and only two bolts). If you are a decent face climber it can be fun in a sick way.