Suggestions for alpine day-climb in September

[goatboy]

Will be in Banff for wedding over Labor Day weekend. Wedding is Saturday and I have Sunday completely open, flying back to Seattle Sunday at 6 PM from Calgary.

 

Thinking about climbing some snow/ice route that Sunday within easy driving distance from Banff. Looking for a 1-day climb, not an overnight affair.

 

My main idea right now is something on Athabasca but would appreciate some other ideas. Something comparable to the N Face of Athabasca in terms of difficulty, or easier -- more interested in a lovely route that something very hard.

 

Also heard good things about the Skyladder route and the Silverhorn Route.

 

I have never done any summer climbing in this area, only winter trips -- so appreciate any advice or suggestions people can share.

 

I may have to resort to drinking Canadian beer on this trip, but will probably bring a few IPA's just in case.

 

Thanks,

 

Goatboy

[G-spotter]

dude wtf

why would you want to climb a snow route in september when you could climb some lovely rock?

 

also athabasca and andromeda from banff is like a 3 hr drive each way. double wtf. thats not "an easy drive"

[AlpineK]

I've done a couple routes on both Athabasca and Andromeda. They both have some good options though I hear the Skyladder isn't quite as good as it used to be.

 

It's a little harder but Photo Finish on Andromeda is good. There are 2 routes on the north face of Athabasca; the route on the right side as you face the mountain is slightly harder and steeper.

[goatboy]

Thanks, Feck.

 

And Dru, I hear ya -- that's probably way too far -- please dis-illusion me! Gimme some recommendations! Thanks.

 

But I didn't know there WAS any lovely rock up that way...

 

Also, I don't need to end up back in Banff at the end of the day Sunday -- could sleep that night closer to the route I climb, as long as I'm back in Calgary by 3 or 4 PM Monday....

 

Thanks for any specific suggestions people can make.

[stinkyclimber]

In addition to the ice routes on the NF of Atha'B, I have heard that the NE ridge is an interesting affair. You get a taste of the lower apron of the ice face, then some classic Rockies ridge climbing (read: somewhat loose). it looked fun from the NF route. Having said that, if you haven't done the NF or Hourglass on the NF, then do those before the NE ridge. Regardless, it would be tight doing these if you can't get on the road until Sunday morning, especially if it is warmer (the NF routes get a lot of rockfall, and the glacier will be a mess coming down later ibn the aft).

 

If you want ice close to Calgary, head up to the Colgan Hut above the Valley of Ten Peaks to hit the ice routes on Quadra and Fay. Get up as early as your post-wedding hangover allows, hike up to the hut from the lake (an awesome little route in itself, perhaps hitting one of the Quadra NF routes on the way up if it is still cold enough. Monday morning get up fucking early and you will have time to do Fay NF, get back to the car and to Calgary. But it will be tight and rushed.

 

Less hassle and logistics will be alpine rock, of which there is loads. Mt Louis - take your pick, some very good rock, and a lovely valley in there. Probably your best bet.

 

Other options:

- Take a look at Temple - east ridge is nice, but you'd want to leave for it by sun up on Sunday, and it is too long of a route to do starting on Monday morning.

- Or catch the bus into Lake O'Hara. It is beautiful in there, but most of the bigger routes and all the snow and ice routes won't be possible unless you can get in there the night before.

- K-Country. Don't know enough about stuff in there, but I know a lot of it is very day trip-able.

 

Unless you can sleep at the base or trailhead or whatever, most snow and ice routes in the rockies are tough to do as day trips, esp. in Sept...and if you do them on Monday, you won't get back to Calgary in time to catch your flight.

 

Good luck.

 

[G-spotter]

Mt Sir Douglas has an easy glacier route in K-Country

 

If you are by yourself and want to do snow/ice instad of rock cause its easier why not do the scramble route on Mt Edith. It is well described in the Alan Kane guide

[goatboy]

Thanks for the ideas and suggestions.

 

I do have a partner for this trip, so would be happy to climb more technical routes if there are any more suggestions.

 

 

[genepires]

if the ice routes don't work out for you, there are plenty of sweet alpine rock routes. There are also some scary rock routes. The 5.6 ish route on china mans hat is good. brewers buttress on castle is good too. If you manage to hike in with a bunch of tourists, then the grand sentinal is very good. (there is a large group minimum size due to local grizzly)

[goatboy]

Hey Gene,

 

Thanks for the suggestions! Those ideas sounds closer to Banff than what I was originally thinking, at least....

[stinkyclimber]

If you have a partner, I would go for Mt Louis over Brewers. It has more of a backcountry feel to it, and the trailhead is 10 mins from Banff. There are a bunch of routes from easy to sandbagged. The Kain route is a classic, and easy. Watch out if you do Homage to the Spider. It ain't 5.8! The Greenwood routes on the south face are probably the best. The rap off is superbly equipped. The hike in and out is awesome - do it as a loop, in via the main valley, and out via Edith. You could do this on Sunday, and then Ha Ling (Chinaman's) on Monday morning.

 

 

[goatboy]

Stinky,

 

Funny, I was just reading about these routes this morning and I think we may have a winner! Thanks to everyone for the great input and ideas. I'll post a TR about this isolated and little-known part of the world when I return...

[Nathan]

Another option if you want ice close to Banff is the North Face of Stanley - easy drive, easy hike in and out, and a fun ice face.

 

 

[bstach]

I may have to resort to drinking Canadian beer on this trip, but will probably bring a few IPA's just in case.

 

Now that your climbs are set, we gotta get you on to a few good Canadian brews. My advice: stay away from anything brewed by Molson or Labatt. Anything brewed by Big Rock or Sleeman is a good bet (I like Big Rock Traditional Ale, Big Rock Grasshopper Ale or Sleemen Honey Brown Lager). If you like IPA, try Alexander Kieth's - its brewed in Nova Scotia. "Those who like it, like it alot".

[goatboy]

Thanks again everyone.

 

Also, thanks bstach for the words of encouragement.

[ericandlucie]

East Ridge of Temple is fun. We climbed it mid-August a couple of years ago. Might still be OK around Labor Day. See link below for TR.

 

http://www.ericandlucie.com/Website2003/Canadian%20Rock%20Climbs/Mt%20Temple/Mt%20Temple.htm

[goatboy]

Wow, great photos -- looks great.

 

That party of 6 thing for sentinel pass is now a party of 12 rule, I heard???

 

Thanks for the ideas.

[goatboy]

Weather was once again medium on this trip but turned out just fine for my actual climbing day.

 

Friday AM -- arrived Calgary, rented car, drove to Moraine Lake and hiked in the hail and lighting. Went to wedding party that night.

Saturday -- hiked up Tunnel Mountain with some friends, went to wedding ceremony and reception that night

Sunday -- Climbed NE Face of Ha Ling Peak ("Chinaman's Peak"). Left car at 7:30, summited at 2 PM. Full TR with pictures to follow. An okay route. Went to wedding party that night.

Monday - Slept in, ate wings at Grizzly Paw, flew back to Seattle in evening...

[bstach]

What beer did you drink?

[goatboy]

I had some of the Alexander Keith's IPA -- passable, but not really bitter or hoppy like local IPA's.

 

The brewpub in Canmore makes a much better, hoppy IPA which I enjoyed while eating the HOTTEST WINGS I've had in my adult life. They must use a habanero-based sauce, because that shit is ridiculously hot....

 

I need to upload some images of the wings, if nothing else....