Sheath Slippage

[b-rock]

So, got my first rope, 50m x 10.5mm Dry Maxim, and have been top roping like crazy. Problem is, I've been getting some sheath slippage off both ends - one about 12 inches, the other about 6. I've cut the extra and melted the ends. Maxim tells me this amount of slippage is normal. Anyone agree/disagree? Thanks.

[joekania]

Sorry B-Rock, I'm creeping it on you a bit, but I have a new-rope question too. I was climbing with a friend for the 2nd or 3rd time the other day, and it was twisting like crazy after he rapped off of it. We stratched it out it's whole length and shook out as much of the twist as possible, and there was still a bit left in it. Is this a normal thing for a new rope?

[IceIceBaby]

The slippage is normal in some ropes and its due to the sheath braiding (tighter no slippage looser slippage). about new rope twist, the manufacture coils the rope pretty much like mountaineering coil and that twist the hell out of the rope (they give u a direction of how to uncoil it but for me it never worked and I always got it twisted). However, the only cure for that IMHO is, to hang the rope over a cliff (or in NYC a building) for a little while (half hour to 45 minutes) and let the tangle work their way out. then coil it on a single butterfly coil.

 

[sk]

Don't coil if you don't have to. Flake the rope out after you use it. Eventualy it works out, and stops being so twisty. Climb more, much more.

[bellemontagne]

Jeez. That much sheeth slippage? I'm on my third rope, and I have never had a substantial amount of slippage on either of my older ropes (PMI and Mammut). Someone may be able to answer this better than myself, but the issue may simply lie in the manufacturing process of the rope. I do know that how the rope is cut and then the ends melted and sealed can affect sheeth slippage.

[Teogo]

Sheath slipage? No, that's not normal--I've owned alot of ropes and Maxim and a creaky old Cousin were the only ropes I've had these kind of problems with. I remember speaking with a rep from the New England factory about 6 or 7 years ago and at that time he claimed that CORE SLIPPAGE was a problem of humidity in the factory, that the problem had been addressed, and that it was definitely a warranty issue if any more ropes with core slippage showed up.

 

Some folks seem to think that sheath slippage is nothing to worry about, but I don't agree; at the very least think about jumaring on a cord with bad sheath slippage. In the event of a leader fall core and sheath represent different percentages of the strength of the rope. (I've heard 25% on the sheath the rest on the core). Should the sheath slip bad enough then obviously the core is going to take more of the impact...If the sheath is slipping some weird physics could be introduced into how the impact of a fall is absorbed by the rope; nothing to be played with.

[IceIceBaby]

I heard and saw (Sorry…can’t exactly tell you where I don’t remember where was it) that 1mm to 5mm is ok. Please correct me if I’m wrong. In some of the ropes I owned it happed over time. I personally think that 0mm slippage will not last through the life of the rope unless u retire after moderate use. since this happened as the rope wares out but not necessary unsafe for lead

[freeclimb9]

b-rock:

some ropes are prone to sheath slippage. I wouldn't call it normal though. The vast majority of the rope's strength is due to the core, so strength diminishment isn't an issue. But, if you ever jumar on a rope whose sheath slips, it's terrifying. Also, your cutting of the slipped sheath will result in a rope with compromised ability to stretch. The rope's quality in terms of catching a leader fall is lower afterwards, IMO. Point that out to Maxim, and ask for a replacement rope that isn't "normal".

 

joekania:

If your friend rapped with a figure eight, or used an ATC (or similar device) that wasn't centered on his/her locking biner, the rope will twist, new or old. Rapping a rope with a well-centered sticht plate, or ATC, will straighten it out.

[ScottP]

According to a couple of different 'net sources (one of them being here: http://www.ontherope.com/produkty/legenda.htm )

"SHEATH SLIPPAGE

It can be both positive (the sheath is longer) and negative (the core is longer). According to EN 892 the sheath slippage cannot be longer than 2 % (40 mm). The UIAA standard is stricter and directs max. 1 % (20 mm). " These percentages being for the length of the rope and the allowable slippage in parentheses being the slippage on the test length.

 

and, according to Maxim's site ( http://www.neropes.com/maxim_climbing/climbing_ropes/10.5mm.htm), sheath slippage on the 10.5 ropes should be zero.

 

I don't know how many ropes I've owned, but it's in the upper teens range and I've never seen this must slippage on any of them, nor on any of my partners ropes.

 

[ 05-18-2002, 11:58 AM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

[Uncle_Tricky]

Regarding the twisting question: The problem is often caused by bad belay/rap technique. Many people hold the free end(s) of the rope at a 90 degree angle to the slots in their ATC, which introduces a bunch of twists as you feed rope through the device. Whether you are belaying or rapping, make sure to feed the rope through your ATC parallel with the slots. And as Freeclimb mentions, rapping your rope while feeding it correctly through your ATC will iron out any twists...

 

[ 05-18-2002, 05:39 PM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

[b-rock]

Thanks y'all for the info, thanks ScottP for the link, don't know how I missed that on Maxim's site. I'll be talking to someone over there today because the amount of slippage I'm getting is over the 1 or 2 % standards noted.

[Rodchester]

Hey b-rock:

 

Let us know how they treat you on returning the rope. I have used Maxim ropes for years and been happy with them...but I have never really had to deal with CS...so I am curious.

[b-rock]

Rod - Will do. I didn't get around to putting a phone call in until yesterday, left a message. No word yet.

[Dru]

maxim ropes are notoriously bad for sheath slip. however if you get like 3 feet of sheath slip you can vcut it off and make a cool chalk bag belt of the extra sheath. if you are kosher, get a moyle to cut off the extra sheath

[b-rock]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dru:

if you are kosher, get a moyle to cut off the extra sheath

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