Megamid on Liberty Ridge?

[Rainier_Wolfscastle]

In a effort to save weight, we are considering using a BD megamid on Rainier's Liberty Ridge. Our other option is a VE-25, which is about 3 times heavier. Has anyone used a megamid for such a purpose? I have used it lower on a glacier and it worked fine, but I am not sure how it will stand up higher on the mountain. Also, is the snow typically deep enough at thumb rock to dig the floor out for a megamid? Thanks for any replies. Mike.

[freeclimb9]

Why do you have two tents? The VE-25 can be pitched with just the poles and fly, and that weighs in about the same as the megamid (yet is free-standing, roomier, and better in wind).

[robertm]

A megamid should be fine at thumb rock. normally lots of snow. both times I was on lib ridge I just used my bivy sack. interesting story: we were dead asleep at thumb rock and all of a sudden this guy starts howling in a nearby tent. We thought the guy was dying in there. It seems that a rock had cartwheeled from up on the ridge somewhere, punched a hole in the guys tent and nailed him in the leg. He was yelping for awhile and he was a bit gimpy but managed to climb the ridge the next day. They had a brand new mtn hrdwr tent that had a nice hole in it. there was such a cluster fuck of people and ropes getting out of camp we slept in till about 6AM and ended up catching everyone at the upper lip. That was the way to go.. no body behind us and no one in front of us until we hit the last stretch. The wind was blowing fairly strong when we got to liberty cap (50-60 mph?) enough to knock you down with heavy gusts. I was struck by how many people where up there that had no business being there. There was one group that descended straight down the Winthrop (they fell in a crevasse and had to be rescued), 2 other groups huddled together in panic mode and then started following us up the summit cone and then down the emmons. On the way down another party begged us for water like they were going to fucking die... and they had 2 liters of fuel (it was only 2 in the afternoon and shurman was in sight!). Anyways it was a fun climb and a megamid should be fine.

[Rainier_Wolfscastle]

quote:

---

Originally posted by freeclimb9:

Why do you have two tents? The VE-25 can be pitched with just the poles and fly, and that weighs in about the same as the megamid (yet is free-standing, roomier, and better in wind).

---

We're not taking both. The debate is which one to take. My buddies VE-25 is an older version. Are you sure you can set it up with no inner tent?

[freeclimb9]

All of TNF tents that I have used (about 6 models) have had velcro tabs on the inside of the fly for securing it to the poles. Look on the inside of the tent fly. I used a fly and poles alone when I climbed Liberty ridge, and would use that setup again (if I still had the tent). As an aside, I understand the Liberty ridge to be a popular route, but we (climbing partner and I) were the only ones on the route when we did it. It's a sweet route --spectacular views down the adjacent slopes--, and the deproach off the Cap was exciting in a white out.

[Bug]

Check out the direct ascent onto Liberty Cap instead of traversing right. There is usually a way onto it early in the year. That last slope to the summit above the serac is a rush.

[Bronco]

I think it is ok to spray now,

 

I like the megamid 'cause you can use it as a parasail off lib cap when you top out and land in yakima to drink at all the dirty feet wineries.

 

Tally Ho!

 

[ 05-08-2002, 01:31 PM: Message edited by: Bronco ]

[IceIceBaby]

Q, how is the megamid holds up in high wind when buried in the snow I never had the chance to try/test it

[mtnnut]

Megamids flap more than any tent I've ever seen. I don't know why folks think they are so great. They take quite a bit of staking force to get them tight.

 

If you really wanted a tent coverage, the VE-25 fly would do better. I think you need some grommeted straps (used for the bottom ends of the poles) to keep the sides from spreading so that you get the same interior volume that you would if you were also using the body. These were typically sold with the tent, but if you've misplaced yours, they might be able to sell replacements out of the North Face store or the warranty department at the company headquarters. I don't think the VE-25 has changed in geometry over the years much, so new parts should fit an older tent.

 

Bivi sacks are much better though, since there is no loose fabric to flap in the wind, plus lighter overall. Takes a little more care to make a sheltered area to operate the stove though. If you are inclined to go regardless of the weather, then perhaps consider the VE-25 fly, otherwise, the bivi sacks make more sense.

 

Keep in mind there isn't a huge amount of room at Thumb Rock too (of level ground anyway), and bivi sacks have a smaller footprint so you can carve out a spot amongst the other campers that you will likely be finding there.

 

[ 05-08-2002, 09:23 PM: Message edited by: mtnnut ]

[erewhon]

My climbing partner and I modified his Megamid with about 20 ft of 1 ft nylon rip stop. Sew a 1 ft extension to the bottom of the meg mid all the way around. Pile snow around the tent on top of the new fly material, and whala! A super sturdy light weight 4 season tent that has proven to us that it can withstand 60+ mph winds w/o flapping to death.

You should be able to find plenty of room up there...at least we did last season!

[Beck]

Regarding post:

 

The VE 25 can be pitched w/o the inner tent; get a footprint,and it will function the same as the grommeted straps mentioned by mcnut. Alternately, you can make similar thangs out of cording; small loops in each end with a two-half hitch adjustor strung in the thing, lets you tighten the fly somewhat from inside- I had a North Face Westind back in the eighties (damn that was a fine tent) and it came with those grommetted straps attached to the vestibule. Me, brainiac that I am, said "WTF are these things, they don't help to pitch the vestibule any) so I made some adjustable cords to string the bottom of the poles togther for the fly only pitching, it took me 10 years to figure out what those straps were for! but the cords always worked great!

 

As to a tarp type pyramid tent, a BD BETAMID would be a much more storm worthy system for higher altitudes. These are canterary cut (i.e. tensioned in graceful curve upon pitching) have a circus tent-like look that's much lower profile and is supported by two poles (I got two megamid heigth poles for a snow pitch, you get a six foot high tent with a little digging in) and would probably take it at thumb rock just fine. Adding a snow flap would probably be beneficial; additionally, sewing a couple of tube vents at the peaks will improve ventilation.

Check out the BD BETAMID if you want to keep the weight down and have a stormworthy option. 2.2 pounds (w/o poles) and $99.

 

And, as to "why have two tents?" that's kind of a stupid question. I bet most here have several, (as well as a bivy bag,with the exception of Mattp) and find different tents for different conditions a big plus- no way am i hauling my double wall four season in for a summer climb of Baker, no thanks!

[David_Parker]

The megamid has a pretty big footprint. Just wondering if instead of adding the one ft. extension, could you just bury some of the existing fabric and pitch the tent a little lower. Still should be plenty big for 2 people.

 

Also, Does anyone know if the NF Oval 25 can be pitched with just the fly? I hardly ever use it cause it weighs so much. Bomber tent though.