Cpt.Caveman Posted June 25, 2001 Posted June 25, 2001 Interesting topos and some are free. http://www.supertopo.com/ Quote
Alex Posted June 25, 2001 Posted June 25, 2001 I bought the Yosemite SuperTopos at Marmot in Bellevue. The book is really well done, worth the money... Alex Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 25, 2001 Author Posted June 25, 2001 I did not lookey but how much did they charge you? And yes the topos are better than the guidebook topos if that sort of shit matters to someone... [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 06-25-2001).] Quote
Drederek Posted June 26, 2001 Posted June 26, 2001 Found that site a few months ago when looking for info on Snake Dyke on the web. Out of about 20,000 sites a good half dozen were related to climbing! Many, many more were about girls wearing all kinds of stuff. D Quote
Lambone Posted June 26, 2001 Posted June 26, 2001 I have done a few of the routes in the Supertopo book since it came out. It is amazing how accurate all the information is, down to the number of fixed heads and pins, although the routes are continualy changing. I did find that some of the pitch lengths were a bit off. Usually they were actually shorter than the book listed, so it was never a problem. Anyway, my two cents is... The book is well worth the twenty bucks or so if you are headed for the walls. Also, Chris Mac and the ASCA deserve alot of credit and support for their rebolting efforts. (No, not more new bolts, only replacement of shwag ones!) Have fun! Â Quote
specialed Posted June 26, 2001 Posted June 26, 2001 Bone: what routes did you do in the valley and toulumne? I'm headed down there this fall and need to put together a tick-list. Quote
Lambone Posted June 26, 2001 Posted June 26, 2001 Ed. Hey, since you are curious... A few days ago I did the Reg. Route on Fairview Dome. Wonderfull climb. Pretty easy though, and lots of other parties. I think it is the longest Non-Alpine route in Toulomne. Cathdreal Peak- stellar. Bring a light rack, watch for loose flakes. You could climb the thing Ten times and pick a new line each time! Walls... I have done a few. I'd rather not spray about which ones, if there is one in particular you are considering let me know and I'll hook you with some "beta"(stupid lingo!) Have you done any walls before? If not I could give some good suggestions on which ones to pick. Unfortuately everyone knows about them, so they are often crowded. But don' let that deter you. Hey Cavey, just messin with ya before... Lambone Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 26, 2001 Author Posted June 26, 2001 I agree with Lammy's Beta of routes to do. I did the same ones 2 weeks ago and I also recommend the one in the latest rock and ice Cryin Time Again. [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 06-26-2001).] Quote
specialed Posted June 26, 2001 Posted June 26, 2001 I think I'm gunna spend some time in the alpine "backcountry", Cathedral Peak sounds pretty choice. It seems like there's tons of dope climbs 4-7 pitches at Toulumne. I'll probably do atleast one wall, but concentrate and the bomb-ass free climbs in the valley, like Steck-Salathe. Any beta on Mt. Whitney? Is it worth doing? are there technical routes on it? [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-26-2001).] Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 26, 2001 Author Posted June 26, 2001 Uhuh Uhuh Steck Salathe Uhuh Uhuh! Yeah Tuolomne Uhuh Uhuh! Yeah Uhuh Uhuh. You guys from the states?? You guys from the states. Huh? <=== My imitation of Fred Beckey. [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 06-26-2001).] Quote
Dru Posted June 26, 2001 Posted June 26, 2001 WHAT? Oh yeah Tuoloumne, yeah. There's some good climbs there! WHAT? Oh, Yosemite, huh, yeah. I did this climb with some girl there once. Yeah, huh. Girls! WHAT? You climbed with some girls, huh? Oh yeah. FB is 78 this year and still going strong! Quote
specialed Posted June 26, 2001 Posted June 26, 2001 I saw that dude in Squamish once. Uh yeah, that's my Fred Becky story. Quote
willstrickland Posted June 26, 2001 Posted June 26, 2001 Steck-Salathe. Hooo boy, a legend for sure, but as much for the sheer suffering one must endure as for the climbing itself. Here's a hint, anytime you see "physical" in a guidebook description...well let's just say the forecast calls for pain. Take a look at the supertopo website, there's a good list of the 80? best routes in the valley. Although it wouldn't be my list, it gives good coverage at a variety of grades. A great route that I've never seen anyone else on is Cold Fusion on GPA, wait till late afternoon when it goes in the shade and you'll likely be the only person on the Apron (mega-ton rockfall events will deter most sane people. Being on the apron alone is surreal, and the crux (some balancy friction at 10c) is in the first 15ft of real climbing. Another short 10b slab crux on the third pitch keeps it interesting. Second pitch is a little dirty from lack of travel. Â Quote
Lambone Posted June 26, 2001 Posted June 26, 2001 Yeah, but the approach is a bitch with full bags. Doable for sure, but not fun. I have allways wanted to do Tisasack, but I am waiting for Chris to rebolt the anchors! People will laugh, but I am taking pack mules up there to hump the haulbags. Spray all you want, the fact is I only have so many of those approaches in my feeble knees! If you want both chanlenging aid and free, the Sheild is sweet. You might like the freeblast (I didn't). And the upper headwall offers some heads up clean aid! I have my eyes on Mescalito- in my opinion the most beautifull aspect on El Cap, and a nice sustained route. The North America wall might be for you guys. Lots of free climbing, and the crux 2nd and 3rd pitches are super fun. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted June 26, 2001 Posted June 26, 2001 Specialed - I have only done one long route on Half-Dome (the Reg NW Face) and must say I regret it! First half of the route follows a broad gully with not so great rock, no exposure. I planned on stopping for lunch at the top of pitch 11? and was so grossed out by the crap (literally) that I just kept on going. The only human orifice (incl both sexes!) that didnt have identifiable discharge left on the ledge was earwax. Unbelievably gross. The next few hundred feet above that point are in a big corner system. (no exposure) The Zig Zags are pretty cool but short too. Sorry to seem so down on the route but there are plenty of better routes in the Valley - I was very dissapointed. Peter By the way I lead all the pitches and the one that stays in my mind as one of the most difficult and fun(despite the low rating) was the 5.9 after the tension traverse. Quote
specialed Posted June 26, 2001 Posted June 26, 2001 Wow! thanks for the good ideas. The Shield sounds like a prime objective. BTW, my buddy (Deathwish Dan)did the Shield last season: ripped a copperhead, took a sixty-footer, and nailed his belayer on the way down (who was in the process of rolling a doobie and was none to pleased that the entire contents were vaporized in the collision.) But he was ok even though he dropped his spliff, and I think they finished the route. -Reg route on Half-Dome might be a little over-traveled for my taste. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-26-2001).] [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-26-2001).] Quote
willstrickland Posted June 26, 2001 Posted June 26, 2001 Well, there's always Excaliber...hard free (multiple unrepeated 5.12OW pitches)reasonable aid (A3), no crowds, a justification for owning big bros and #5 Camalots. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 26, 2001 Author Posted June 26, 2001 Just do the Chuck Pratt (one of my heroes) and spend a season climbing nothing but every OW you can find so you get real good at them. I recommend the gear mentioned above for that. I have some large gear myself we can team up for some OW training?! Quote
Lambone Posted June 27, 2001 Posted June 27, 2001 Hey Ed its me again. Alpine routes in Toulomne: -Matthes(?) Crest -West Ridge of Conness or link up North Ridge of North Peak and N Ridge of Conness. -Third Piller of Mt. Dana Whitney is of course more beautifull alpine granite. But I hear the hike in is a bit of a drag. Lots of poeple on the East But. Keeler looks sick. If I were going to do one wall. Probably Zodiac. You'll wait in line but its worth it. All the cruxes are usually fixed. It goes clean with some fancy doo-dads. The Shield is pretty(except for the pin scars), but hauling the first half sucks balls. Of course if you free climb strong, The Nose is your ticket. If you want something to remind you of Montana, get on the NA! Have fun. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 06-26-2001).] Quote
Lambone Posted June 27, 2001 Posted June 27, 2001 Hey will, youre so right. However, the park service now strongly discourages climbing under glacier point, due to the big chunks of granite that killed a climber a year ago. Quote
specialed Posted June 27, 2001 Posted June 27, 2001 Hopefully I'll be able to partner up with my boy, Deathwish Dan, from Missoula, for a wall. He can lead the A3-4 sketchfest pitches and I'll do the hard free climbing bit. I've heard the routes on Half Dome are good: short (relatively), steep, and hard. Quote
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