Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
off_the_hook

[TR] Matthes Crest - S to N Traverse 7/8/2007

Recommended Posts

Trip: Matthes Crest - South to North Traverse

 

Date: 7/8/2007

 

Trip Report:

After the Darwin/Mendel trip on Saturday, we opted for a variation in the type of climbing and chose the Matthes Crest for some rock - setting out at 6:45 am. The approach and depproach (a little under 6 miles via Budd Lake) were, not surprisingly, the best parts of the climb for me in terms of efficiency as we did it in 1 hour, 55 minutes on the way in and 1 hour, 30 minutes on the way out. My rock climbing skills leave a lot to be desired, however, and we spent much time on the crest negotiating a few moves that were tricky for me. Nonetheless, the route was fun with exhilarating exposure in a fantastic setting. The roundtrip was 9.5 hours.

 

darwin0020.JPG

Cathedral Peak on the gorgeous approach.

 

darwin0019.JPG

Echo Peaks from below the Matthes Crest.

 

darwin0024.JPG

The beginning of the traverse after two pitches to reach the crest from the base.

 

darwin0021.JPG

Steven scrambling the crest.

 

764550509_1fcee9b477_b.jpg

Me on the crest. Photos above and below by Steven Sheets.

 

764550619_5e17be7799_b.jpg

 

darwin0026.JPG

Further along the crest.

 

darwin0027.JPG

The south (foreground) and north summits.

 

darwin0033.JPG

Notice the climber near the top.

 

darwin0029.JPG

 

darwin0030.JPG

We were glad to meet another party because having two ropes makes the rappel logistics way easier (we only brought one rope).

 

765534169_75bdbff56e_b.jpg

Matthes Crest from the bench on the western slope of Echo Peaks.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Selection of small/medium cams.

 

Approach Notes:

Approach via the Budd Lake use trail and then skirt around the western side of Echo Peaks on a beautiful meadowy bench to the basin below Matthes. This approach worked really well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the beautiful photos and trip reports from the Sierras. Please keep it up!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey, great trip and photos, if you go back it is really worth the extra time to do the whole traverse. Continue beyond the rap station and keep heading out the ridge until it peeters out or you are no longer having fun. There are some spectacular pitches on the second half, including the "Granite Wave" pitch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are some fun scrambles in the Echo Rocks. One of my best days ever, although no technical climbing, was in that area. My bro and I were camped about 8 miles down the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne. We hiked back to the road, repacked a little, drove down the road a bit, then hiked in to upper Cathedral Lake. It was still early afternoon, so I headed up to the plateau above the lake. I had no idea what I was doing but ended up scrambling up the descent route for Cathedral, descended, crossed the plateau to the Echo Rocks, then scrambled up 3 of the summits (class 3 and 4, maybe a little low 5th). Finally back down to the lake w/ plenty of daylight left. One full, fun day. Went back up Cathedral the next morning w/ my bro before heading out of the Park.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Last weekend I went and soloed up to the north summit

pitch with my buddy, and then roped up for the 5.8 down climbing off the North Summit. Didn't bring enough water on route. We figure if you roped it out it would be over 23 full pitches. Over a mile of climbing. The first part is blissful and the second exciting. We found it most efficient to short rope it. Round trip: 10 hours including a little post climb safety meeting in the meadow.

 

Crest.JPG

 

 

CathderalBandW.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice report and pics. Hey Brian. My foots broken! How'd the other pics still come out? Email them to me when you get a chance. especially the one of me breaking my foot.

Edited by Zach

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×