[TR] Ingalls Peak - South Face 7/7/2007

[suge]

Trip: Ingalls Peak - South Face

 

Date: 7/7/2007

 

Trip Report:

Now that June has passed, weekend weather is assured to be good. In the spirit of being socialable, and hoping to meet some hot chica climbers, it seemed like a good idea to climb Ingalls via the south face. After all, next to Das Toof, Ingalls must be about the most popular alpine rock climb in the state. Surely hoardes of climbers would be found on a sunny Saturday. Surely I would meet my future wife along the route.

 

No climbers were found before Ingalls Pass, but some four legged ones were found just on the other side.

 

 

 

None of these were exactly my type, but I had faith that somewhere we would come across a pile of climbers. All I had to do was wait just a little bit, and surely we would be inundated with climbers, a prospect that I was really happy about. Three dudes on their way to the West Ridge of Stuart passed us by. Again, just not my type. So, we worked around to Ingalls Lake and then over to the Dogtooth Spires, climbing up and around to get to the base of what seemed like the first pitch.

 

 

I say, "seemed", because it wasn't clear that we were on the right mountain. There was no one there, no line up, and no one above us. We scratched our heads for a while before digging out a compass and map. After shooting numerous bearings and consulting a GPS, Kevin was convinced that this was indeed Ingalls Peak and we were at the starting point of the South Face.

 

 

I wasn't so sure, but led up a short pitch anyways to a much larger platform where a big boulder was slung for an anchor. I was again frustrated not to find a big group of climbers of the female persuasion hanging out there. At this pace I might never get a date out of the climb. I brought Kevin up, who then brought Tom up.

 

 

Feeling frustrated, I led up a big crack on the right to a ledge above, and actually found evidence of other climbers. Long gone, of course. A three point anchor had been built into the rock with three WC Rocks for protection, and slung with slings tied with what looked like an overhand knot. Two biners sat on it. Somebody bailed here it seemed. I climbed one of the nuts and kept going.

 

 

The crack got thinner and the climbing a bit more thought provoking, which meant that I was probably off route. No matter, I kept heading up, fully disappointed in the lack of a meatmarket scene on Ingalls. A nice ledge held a bolted rap station where I stopped to bring Kevin up.

 

 

As I led off for the last, short pitch, I heard some voices down below. The voices were not the usual commentary from Kevin and Tom, but rather someone new. They were unfortunately out of my line sight and sounded male anyways. I anchored into a last set of bolts and the others rapidly climbed up.

 

 

The two voices made it to the top shortly after we did, and did indeed belong to males. I resigned myself to a date-free weekend. We chatted with the two climbers for a while, then shared a long, double rope rap down to the big ledge at the start of the first pitch.

 

 

A second double rope rap got us back to the snow, allowing us to avoid the any sort of scrambling or effort. Although there was still the walk out, and I might meet some women there, I was now smelly and dirty and sun burnt and thinking more of Mexican food in Cle Elum than of the fairer sex. Tom whispered sweet nothings into my ear as we plodded on down the snow to make me feel better, but stopped quickly when he realized his virtue might be in danger.

 

 

 

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Photos by myself, Kevin, and Tom.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

A few small to mid nuts. A few larger hexes. Used 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5 Friends once or twice. You'll want an ice axe for the approach. Crampons would be helpful, but are not necessary.

 

Approach Notes:

Trail is snow free to Ingalls Pass. Some hard snow to the base of the Dogtooth Spires.

[kevbone]

Nice.....I love that climb.

[plexus]

I was again frustrated not to find a big group of climbers of the female persuasion hanging out there. At this pace I might never get a date out of the climb.

 

But were the goats starting to look good on the way back to the pass?! Once you go mutton, you'll never stop stuffin!!

 

I've had the same ghost experience on Ingalls and must say it was quite nice to go at my pace and not have to worry about gumbies dropping stuff on my head.

[Kat_Roslyn]

Maybe you'd get a date if you weren't so ugly and had a better personality and maybe more money, a cooler car, a good job and more free time.

[kevino]

Maybe you'd get a date if you weren't so ugly and had a better personality and maybe more money, a cooler car, a good job and more free time.

 

Likewise.

 

 

 

 

[CascadeClimber]

The two voices made it to the top shortly after we did, and did indeed belong to males. I resigned myself to a date-free weekend.

 

Beggars can't be choosers, they say. So this guy wasn't enough gal for you?

 

 

Besides, there was a chicka or two there, but one retreated because it was too cold(??) and you scared off the other barking at her to use her axe (or was that the same one- it was all so confusing).

 

Thanks again for the shared rap-

 

L

[suge]

Yeah, there was that girl, but she didn't seem like she would be very receptive to anything that I might say. Nor did her boyfriend, whom I presume is now her ex.

 

 

[nolanr]

Holy crap, that's melted out a lot in the last couple weeks. Is the lake partially snow free now? Nothing like grubbin' at El Caporal after a day/weekend playing in the mountains.

[spotly]

Here's a more recent pic someone from NWHikers ( cinnamon )took. West ridge of Stuart looks really good:

 

Edited July 12, 2007 by spotly