IceIceBaby Posted March 21, 2002 Posted March 21, 2002 I need new crampons; I want them in new-matic/Rapid fix binding I am looking at Charlet Moser Black Ice Charlet Moser S12 Grivel 2F Grivel G12 I was wondering any recommendations pro con on the above also should I look at other binding system.I do have the Sabretooth I just do not like the affect that it limited to front and back bail bootsI also do not want to fumble with Scottish strap system either [ 03-21-2002: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ] Quote
imorris Posted March 21, 2002 Posted March 21, 2002 I've used the S12 for about 4 years now (bail front) and it has been rock solid, after constant abuse on rock. Only thing I would want is a more aggressive angle on the second front tooth for steeper stuff. As an all-around, though, it's bomber. If I bought again I'd go for the Black Ice. Seems similar to the S12 with a more aggressive front end. -Iain Quote
Rodchester Posted March 21, 2002 Posted March 21, 2002 Grivel 2F = very good crampon. Durable, and can become a "rigid" platform for easier water ice and hard alpine ice. A pretty agressive set of front points and secondary front points. Lighter than many steel crampons, but still a heavy crampon. One bad thing is that these tend to ball up when the snow gets soft, and I mean WAY worse then the G12. I have a pair and like them. Grivel G12 = I have a pair and really like them. They fit well on a large range of boot sizes and type. Durable and with the same agressive front points as the 2F. Not light weight. At retail pricing, I recollection is that this one is cheaper than most. Doesn't ball up like the 2F. I have a pair and I like them. I believe the new-matic system is the way to go. If your intended use is basic glacier mountainering, I would look into an aluminum crampon. I have a pair of Lowe/Camps and I LOVE them. They weigh half what most steel crampons do. Charlet Moser makes nice stuff, but my first hand experience is limited. So I'll stop there. Good luck...let us know what you go with and why. Also after you have used them a while post a gear review. Quote
fishstick Posted March 21, 2002 Posted March 21, 2002 I've used 2F's and Black ices and strongly favour the performance of the 2F. They also fit a wider variety of boots. GB Quote
Dru Posted March 21, 2002 Posted March 21, 2002 you better get antibottes if you got 2fs. that,or know how to self arrest instantly. or be an accomplished stilt walker. Quote
verticalturtle Posted March 21, 2002 Posted March 21, 2002 Good call on the new-maniac style crampoons. I has s-12s that have worked excellently for about 6 years on everything from sort snow to vertical ice. I did pick up a pair of Sabertooths cause I thought the second points would make a difference and was dissapointed that they did not seem to benefit me much. Any one want to buy em $50? That said I can't speak to the Grivels. My only thought on them is that depending on how you are attaching them to a pack the stiff zetyl for the toe section may interfere with say a sleve style crampon pocket. $.02 vt Quote
al Posted March 21, 2002 Posted March 21, 2002 I recently bought a pair of Stubai Torols from Pro Mountain with the universal binding. They also come with the "pro binding" for your new-matic needs. They have some really aggressive fronts and secondarys, and at $100, the price is right. I've only used them on water ice so far, but its not what I bought them for. I just wanted a good crampon for my leathers for alpine use. Quote
Rodchester Posted March 21, 2002 Posted March 21, 2002 verticalturtle: "My only thought on them is that depending on how you are attaching them to a pack the stiff zetyl for the toe section may interfere with say a sleve style crampon pocket." Actually it is not a problem. The zytel stuff attaches to crampons with a pin/rivet (don't know what you would actually call it) that lets you rotate the zytel downward closer to the crampon decreasing the profile so it cab slide into such a pocket. Dru is correct, the 2Fs will let you practice being stiltwalker. Then again, if the snaow is that soft, take em off. Quote
Dru Posted March 21, 2002 Posted March 21, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: verticalturtle:"My only thought on them is that depending on how you are attaching them to a pack the stiff zetyl for the toe section may interfere with say a sleve style crampon pocket." Actually it is not a problem. The zytel stuff attaches to crampons with a pin/rivet (don't know what you would actually call it) that lets you rotate the zytel downward closer to the crampon decreasing the profile so it cab slide into such a pocket. Dru is correct, the 2Fs will let you practice being stiltwalker. Then again, if the snaow is that soft, take em off. ya its when you are down climbing, facing out, 3 inches of wet freshiez cement over 25 degree ice that its a real bitch, need crampons on but crampons keep ball'n up. my solution was to swith to charlet grade 8's which have been great all around, WI, mixed, snow, choss climbers. but you maybe want horizontal frontpoints for some weird reason. i never found it made much difference horizontal or vertical points, but twight sez it does so it must Quote
James Posted March 23, 2002 Posted March 23, 2002 i had the 2F's, but they balled up way too bad, and adding the antibot to them made them heavy. i say get a pair of crampons that don't have the vertical rail frame, it just traps the snow too well. i'm going to buy the stubai tirol. barrabes had them for about $60US in the step in version, but they are gone for now. i'm guessing they will have them again soon. Quote
IceIceBaby Posted March 23, 2002 Author Posted March 23, 2002 I just got the Blackice Rpidfix and the antibot from thinkmountain.com for $120 took 2 days to arrive. I will post my opinion once I have done good mileage in them Thanx for the input Quote
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