David Trippett Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 I was wondering if anyone can tell me the story behind the routes on the headwall? Apparently, from looking at the guidebook, most of the hard routes on that wall were either retro bolts of trad leads or projects that never got finished. Did the FA give permission to retro bolt that route "While the Cats Away..."? From the sounds of it the original style of that wall was trad and the various hard bolted routes are in a state disrepair and were never even led. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wakaranai Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 Id help you rebolt them if you want to, it would be nice to have projects to do at Erie and as the bolts are now the climbs are seeing almost zero traffic. My buddy talked to the FA of the 11d at the lookout wall and he seemed to be fine with retrobolting that route as long as we didnt add more bolts to it. Its a great problem but not leadable with current rusty bolts, unless u cwazy. Im not sure if the same dude put up when the cats r away... -B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 it is the same guy on both climbs... Ken Beane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 Be more careful with your terminology. Rebolting is replacing bad bolts with good ones. Retrobolting is something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wakaranai Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Sorry- I thought retro bolting referred to replacing old bolts. I wouldnt ever change the FA's line. I would like some advise on where to place new bolts (ex. how close to the old bolt should a new one be). For both safety and to maintain the integrity of the FA. If anyone is ever around the Lookout Wall take a lap and tell me what you think. -B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 (edited) Back in the day, i heard Jason Henrie retro'd the predominantly trad, headwall route without permission, heard the same about frogs in space. Karnage is a good 11 on the orange wall if that's what your looking for. come end of september i'd work the headwall with you avitripp if your looking for a partner. Edited June 29, 2007 by frosty_the_tradman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 Waka, read this site for the scoop on replacing old bolts with new ones, http://www.safeclimbing.org/index.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wakaranai Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 Karnage is a great problem, as well as frogs in space, a couple more mid 11's to lead would be a cool thing at Erie. Hydrophobia and other climbs along the snag buttress are fun but need some bolts replaced. Thanks for beta Otto. -B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 Rebolt for Jesus! Hallelujah! Can I get an Amen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeroforhire Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 amen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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