Trent Posted June 1, 2007 Posted June 1, 2007 Trip: Liberty Bell - East Face Couloir Date: 5/30/2007 Trip Report: Dallas, Scott and I tried the East Face Couloir on Liberty Bell last Wednesday. We were looking for something different in the area that had an alpine feel to it. We planned to climb the couloir and finish it with either the Becky Route or the South Face / Overexposure Route. Becky describes the couloir as hidden away and little known, so we got suckered in. The first ascent was put up by Roskelly in July 1968. The route starts in the gully to the south of Liberty crack and climbs the couloir to the notch between Liberty Bell and Concord Tower. We combined the first two pitches, which climb rock to the left side of a wet overhanging chimney. Becky describes these as 5.7, but it was a scrappy, full contact 5.7. We then continued up the gully overcoming a few minor rock steps and some water ice. The final obstacle was a large chockstone that is bypassed by climbing the vertical face on the left side of the gully to two aid bolts, and then aiding around the chockstone. What we could not see until it was too late was that this pitch was overhung by a large hang fire cornice that seemed supported by nothing. To make matters worse, the wall to the bolts, which looked to be the original manky quarter-inchers, was dripping wet, and we would have had to tunnel through or climb over the cornice to complete the route. We decided that this was not included in our plan for the day and bailed here, rapping and downclimbing the route. Our good karma vibes kept the cornice in place and allowed us to exit the couloir unscathed to quaff a few barley pops at the car. It was an interesting outing on something different at Washington Pass. Recommend waiting until the cornice has cut loose. Approching the gully The first pitch Upper snow slopes Dallas still the rope gun at 67 Our final pitch The make or break pitch. We broke. Gear Notes: Two tools, a full alpine rack, no screws needed at this time of year. Bring pins for pro and aid on the final pitch. Approach Notes: Thirty minutes from the car. Quote
goatboy Posted June 1, 2007 Posted June 1, 2007 Interesting stuff - thanks -- could you tell how far below the "notch" (at the top of the gully) you were when you turned back? Quote
Trent Posted June 1, 2007 Author Posted June 1, 2007 The Becky's route description says the big chockstone is 3/4 of the way up the couloir to the notch. It was hard to tell from our viewpoint, but according to my altimeter (which has lied to me before), we had about 150 feet to the notch. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted June 1, 2007 Posted June 1, 2007 Should have included a shotgun in the rack. Looks like a fun outing nonetheless. :tup: Quote
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