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Posted (edited)

I am looking to buy used gear appropriate for Denali, where I hope to be headed about this time next year. If you have just returned or have gear from past years that you would like to sell, I'm your person. There are many expensive things I need and here is an incomplete list. There are likely other things I neglected to list here, so please contact me with any gear appropriate for Denali that you are trying to sell (2063548518):

 

1. Alpine BOD harness (or something similar)

2. Overboots

3. Vapor barrier liners (for hands and feet)

4. 40 Below bag with pertex coating

5. Headlamp

6. Sled with aluminum poles

7. Boots (Vasque Ice 9000, LaSportiva Nupse or Spantik, One Sport Everst, or other appropriate)

8. Mittens, liner gloves

9. V25 Northface tent

10. Balaclava (200-300 wt Gorilla by OR or other appropriate)

11. 200-300 wt long underwear

12. outer pants

13. ski crampons

 

Sunny

Edited by sunnyrem
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Posted

What size boots do you need? I have some old-style scarpa invernos in 11.5 (45 euro) that I'd let go of cheap. I also have an old wild things denali parka, similar to their belay coat but older and somewhat bulkier, that I'd get rid of.

Posted

Sunny,

Just my two cents, but I'd make the following gear recommendations:

I am looking to buy used gear appropriate for Denali, where I hope to be headed about this time next year. If you have just returned or have gear from past years that you would like to sell, I'm your person. There are many expensive things I need and here is an incomplete list. There are likely other things I neglected to list here, so please contact me with any gear appropriate for Denali that you are trying to sell (2063548518):

 

1. Alpine BOD harness (or something similar)

2. Overboots

3. Vapor barrier liners (for hands and feet)

I wouldn't use VB barriers for your hands and feet (I've never even heard of them for your hands).

4. 40 Below bag with pertex coating

Since much of your climbing will be below freezing, a waterproof coating for a sleeping bag is unnecessary - in fact, you want your bag to allow your condensation to escape.

5. Headlamp

The Denali climbing season has 24 hours of light - no one brings a headlamp.

6. Sled with aluminum poles

Since the pilots do a mass sled carry at the beginning and end of every season, I'd recommend simply bringing a second pair of cheap aluminium ski poles and a bunch of cord, webbing, and bungees to rig a sled at the Kahiltna Airstrip.

7. Boots (Vasque Ice 9000, LaSportiva Nupse or Spantik, One Sport Everst, or other appropriate)

If your serious about using skies, these boots aren't appropriate, and the One Sports and Spantik won't need overboots.

8. Mittens, liner gloves

9. V25 Northface tent

10. Balaclava (200-300 wt Gorilla by OR or other appropriate)

11. 200-300 wt long underwear

12. outer pants

13. ski crampons

Sunny

Posted
Sunny,

Just my two cents, but I'd make the following gear recommendations:

I am looking to buy used gear appropriate for Denali, where I hope to be headed about this time next year. If you have just returned or have gear from past years that you would like to sell, I'm your person. There are many expensive things I need and here is an incomplete list. There are likely other things I neglected to list here, so please contact me with any gear appropriate for Denali that you are trying to sell (2063548518):

 

1. Alpine BOD harness (or something similar)

2. Overboots

3. Vapor barrier liners (for hands and feet)

I wouldn't use VB barriers for your hands and feet (I've never even heard of them for your hands).

4. 40 Below bag with pertex coating

Since much of your climbing will be below freezing, a waterproof coating for a sleeping bag is unnecessary - in fact, you want your bag to allow your condensation to escape.

5. Headlamp

The Denali climbing season has 24 hours of light - no one brings a headlamp.

6. Sled with aluminum poles

Since the pilots do a mass sled carry at the beginning and end of every season, I'd recommend simply bringing a second pair of cheap aluminium ski poles and a bunch of cord, webbing, and bungees to rig a sled at the Kahiltna Airstrip.

7. Boots (Vasque Ice 9000, LaSportiva Nupse or Spantik, One Sport Everst, or other appropriate)

If your serious about using skies, these boots aren't appropriate, and the One Sports and Spantik won't need overboots.

8. Mittens, liner gloves

9. V25 Northface tent

10. Balaclava (200-300 wt Gorilla by OR or other appropriate)

11. 200-300 wt long underwear

12. outer pants

13. ski crampons

Sunny

 

Good post.

I agree with everything except the vapor barrier pox. I use vapor barriers and HIGHLY reccommend them.

EVERYTHING ELSE is really good advice imo.

Posted

Actually, I whole hearty disagree about taking a bag that does not have some sort of coating. It is not inside out protection you want it is outside in. By the time the moisture gets to the outside from the inside it will have cooled and condensed anyways. The reason for the coating is for moisture from the outside. Once in a tent you can warm it up pretty quickly. Start cooking inside and it gets nice and warm. Then you partner blows the soup on the floor, etc, etc. Then there is all of moisture settling in during the night from your breath. Having some protection helps.

 

As for skis and boots, I have used a pair of old One Sports and the Scarpa Phantom 8000 in Silvarettas. They work fine for transportation. Most people ditch skis at the base of Motorcycle hill anyways so it ain't you will be schussing down anything.

 

Skip the ski crampons. If it get hard enough just walk you be hauling enough crap as it is.

 

I am a fan the VBL for the feet. My partners are not.

 

I agree about the sleds although I prefer drag bags. As for the using ski poles for the sled. What???? Unless you can find some really long poles to use, the sled will be riding your skis. The easiest thing to do is learn how to tie the sled in so it follows properly.

Posted

Not sure what your gender is... How tall are you and what size are your feet? I have some forty below overboots that I'll sell you, but they'll only fit up to a woman's size 8. Also, if you are short, I have a 20 below Western Mountaineering bag that is for someone under 5'6". Send me a pm if you are interested. Also, see my post above about a good deal on a waterproof coated gear duffle.

Posted

So you're in Seattle? Check out the September gear sale at Whittaker's - get there early, and you can get pretty much all you need at decent prices.

I agree with Chris' recommendations. If you've never used VBL's, your life (and feet) could suck very quickly. Some people like them, most do not. Also, if you're thinking of using rigid sled poles, load 40 lbs on a sled and lug it up to Camp Muir. Then try a soft set up on another day. I'm betting you'll enjoy the soft rig better, it'll be less tiring on the uphill, and not as bad as you'd think on the down if it's rigged right and your rope mates are paying attention.

 

I also agree with no pertex. Sounds counter-intuitive, but leave vent openings in front and back of your tent, no matter how cold, and you won't have near the amount of rime ice inside.

 

Don't forget to test run your pons over your overboots - every year climbers either stay at 17 or get in an accident because their straps aren't long enough.

 

Don't cook in your tent - use your bag to get warm. If you're still cold, take your summit parka and drape the outside. Don't wear it inside the bag. Don't be bashful during storms, mor ethan one climber has shit in a CMC in the tent vestibule.

 

It sounds like you're not going guided - do you have winter climbing/altitude experience? If not, get it now. Get an ice saw, shovel, borrow a tent and go high on Baker/Rainier.

 

E-me if you have questions, everyone likes to share Denali experiences.

Posted (edited)

I'll second the recommendation of VB for your feet. As for the ICE 9000s, I could have used them without overboots last year. Not sure when you are planning, but went June 1-19th last year and a -20 was cozy for me, but I sleep a little on the warm side. Two of our 3-man rope team used a rigid sled setup, see skipulk.com, and the third really wished he would have chosen this setup.

Edited by 96avs01

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