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Posted

I'm planning to climb it this summer....looks sort of intriguing, but not much out there on it. I love the idea of getting away from south side hordes....climbed Mazama Glacier last summer and enjoyed that experience, but still haven't ventured onto the north side; looks like some fantastic views of Adams glacier.....any idea when access to trailhead typically clears of snow? Seems like the ridge is pretty straightforward unless there's something I'm missing?

 

Any general opinions of the route from those that have climbed it? Thanks!

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Posted

Here's my TR when I did it.

 

I actually enjoyed it despite its reputation. Make sure you don't get too high before deciding on a bivy. There are 2 great spots. Don't pass the second one otherwise you'll wish you stayed lower because there's not much above it. I also recommend a good bottle of red for the trip. :brew:

Posted

The North Ridge is a nice climb, particularly in June when there is a little more snow. Camp at the lake, there are usually good rock walls in place. There's really no reason to camp higher, as from there it is comfortably an up-down-and out situation. It's not a technical route. The two times I've done it I did not bring a rope, just an ice axe and crampons. And you may not even use the crampons. The views on to the Adams and the Lava glaciers are great, as is the daylong gaze toward Goat Rocks, Rainier and beyond.

 

Have a great, safe trip!

Posted

Thanks a lot guys....that helps. Sounds like earlier the better-good to know. Some of the pics I've seen are impressive. I was wondering about the crampons, as it does sound like a good amount of rock scrambling, mixed in with a few snow traverses......could be popping them on and off perhaps it sounds.

 

Maybe I'll sneak that bottle of red into one my companions packs! :)

Although I prefer a little of the corn whiskey my self!

Posted
I was wondering about the crampons, as it does sound like a good amount of rock scrambling, mixed in with a few snow traverses......could be popping them on and off perhaps it sounds.

When we got to the slope before the summit a couple of us put them on. I didn't think they were necessary.

 

Although I prefer a little of the corn whiskey my self!

Good point. The buzz-to-weight ratio is much better too!

Posted

I would take the pons just in case.

I did, but did not use them.

But there is potential for finding hard snow or ice in a couple spots.

We did Rainier Wed, Adams Thurs, and were at the base of St Helens Thurs night where it rained hard and long.

We were hoping to do St H and then Hood.

Whiskey is fine but the shrooms on Rainier were really fine.

Posted

I've been thinking of this one too, I think there may be some access issues getting to the Killen Creek trailhead this year, may want to check with the ranger station. Sounds like a good candidate for aluminum crampons. Let me know if you need somebody to go with.

Posted

Best place in Washington to climb in ski boots, no rope, no gear, no poons, and ski awesome glaciated lines on the descent. I didn't just write that, did I? Sorry, Jason.

Posted
Best place in Washington to climb in ski boots, no rope, no gear, no poons, and ski awesome glaciated lines on the descent. I didn't just write that, did I? Sorry, Jason.

I'll say! Looks like a great trip Sky. :brew:

 

Posted
That was classic! I especially like the intermittent clips of the doll sheep (or whatever those things are that are all over Adams...) cruisin along...good stuff.

 

Those are mountain goats.

 

Dall Sheep are only found in AK and Canada.

Posted
That was classic! I especially like the intermittent clips of the doll sheep (or whatever those things are that are all over Adams...) cruisin along...good stuff.

 

Those are mountain goats.

 

Dall Sheep are only found in AK and Canada.

 

Doll Sheep, although manufactured and tested extensively in Canuckia, are available at specialty retailers in the States.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Once did a car drop and went up the north ridge and bivived at the false summit. Came down the southwest shutes to cold srings.

It is a big mountain with lots of room. Just takes a little work to see what the twenty five hundred other people miss every year.

 

The owner of the trout lake lodge was very helpfull and arranged the car shuttle.

 

The North ridge did not seem as evil as I had heard,It was a heavy snow year and we went in mid June.We found some nice snow fields to go up .No good places up high to bivi,thats why we pushed to the false suumit. Or Pikers peak.

 

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