[TR] Blodgett Caynon / Nez Perce Spire - SW Buttress 5/11/2007

[NYC007]

Trip: Blodgett Caynon / Nez Perce Spire - SW Buttress

 

Date: 5/11/2007

 

Trip Report:

After debating on either Leavenworth or Blodgett, we made right decison and drove to Montana for a few days of climbing. So we filled up my purple rollerskate and heading into the hills. After a mellow hike in we were at the base of the SW buttress ib Nez Perce:

The first three pitches mainly took small cams and microstoppers, twas techy thin climbing.

 

But unforunately at the top of pitch 4, one of us suffered from a busted nut sack:

 

Joe on pitch 5, the first of the crux pitches:

 

 

The climbing on pitches 4 on where fun crack and face climbing with the 6th pitch being the crux of the route, but per some locals sound like we made it a lil harder on ourselves and went a little to the left, but climbing was still get, very physical though! Great route very varied climbing which in a plus and no crowds, & free camping. The next day we did some cragging after deciding against the Timebinder, first pitch looks sccarrry

 

View of Shoshone and Flathead(which is suppose to have the best rock in the canyon!)

 

Gear Notes:

alot of smaller gear but doubles to #3 camalot.

 

Approach Notes:

follow well beaten trail then cross river when possible on down trees. Head up talus to base of spire. No raps on descent.

[Bug]

Very nice. Especially the fact that you didn't whine about loose rock in the gray band.

So what did you think about my secret project Joe?

[pu]

Project...Let's do it.

 

Grey band wasn't that bad. The grey does make things a bit more difficult due to smearing friction.

[John Frieh]

So we filled up my purple rollerskate and heading into the hills.

 

one of us suffered from a busted nut sack

 

 

Nice TR d00d!

[crackers]

i also loved the busted nut sack.

 

Flathead definitely has the best rock.

 

 

[spotly]

Nice job. I'd like to get over there this year too, preferably before it gets way too hot. How were the ticks - I hear they get pretty bad there? Couldn't find alot of beta on-line for that route other than it runs 5.8ish. Any other easy-to-protect 5.8ish or less routes in there that might be fun? How long was the drive from here?

[NYC007]

about 4 hrs from CDA, ticks were all over the place. There is info on rockclimbing.com and in the guide book, the route goes at about mid 5.10. THere is a slightly runout 5.6 but other than that seems to be mainly 5.9 and above, but I dont have the up to date book. http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Montana/South_West/Blodgett_Canyon/Nez_Perce/Southwest_Buttress_52039.html

[jlag]

this place is a tick rearing ground. I remember hearing that at some point they did some "Rocky mountain fever" research in Blodgett years ago. When i lived there a guy i know got it while climbing up there, he was down for a long time.

[Bug]

The rumor is, spotted ticks are female and some of those carry the fever.

White attracts them far more than dark colored clothing.

They hang out in brush along game trails.

Remove them by putting a hot knife tip on their butt or butter over them. They breathe through their butt so the idea is to force them to let go and seek air.

Random trivia, I have a tick head in the back of my scalp from 3 decades ago. It has built up a cycst around it and is a 1/4" to 1/2" lump now.

Sometimes it talks to me.

They say you never get over "the fever".

 

[crackers]

stories are that the tick is what drove Raf to the edge...

[Bug]

I didn't think they got that big.

[Bug]

That would explain the deep voice......