NYC007 Posted May 13, 2007 Share Posted May 13, 2007 Trip: Blodgett Caynon / Nez Perce Spire - SW Buttress Date: 5/11/2007 Trip Report: After debating on either Leavenworth or Blodgett, we made right decison and drove to Montana for a few days of climbing. So we filled up my purple rollerskate and heading into the hills. After a mellow hike in we were at the base of the SW buttress ib Nez Perce: The first three pitches mainly took small cams and microstoppers, twas techy thin climbing. But unforunately at the top of pitch 4, one of us suffered from a busted nut sack: Joe on pitch 5, the first of the crux pitches: The climbing on pitches 4 on where fun crack and face climbing with the 6th pitch being the crux of the route, but per some locals sound like we made it a lil harder on ourselves and went a little to the left, but climbing was still get, very physical though! Great route very varied climbing which in a plus and no crowds, & free camping. The next day we did some cragging after deciding against the Timebinder, first pitch looks sccarrry View of Shoshone and Flathead(which is suppose to have the best rock in the canyon!) Gear Notes: alot of smaller gear but doubles to #3 camalot. Approach Notes: follow well beaten trail then cross river when possible on down trees. Head up talus to base of spire. No raps on descent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted May 13, 2007 Share Posted May 13, 2007 Very nice. Especially the fact that you didn't whine about loose rock in the gray band. So what did you think about my secret project Joe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pu Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 Project...Let's do it. Grey band wasn't that bad. The grey does make things a bit more difficult due to smearing friction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 So we filled up my purple rollerskate and heading into the hills. one of us suffered from a busted nut sack Nice TR d00d! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crackers Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 i also loved the busted nut sack. Flathead definitely has the best rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 Nice job. I'd like to get over there this year too, preferably before it gets way too hot. How were the ticks - I hear they get pretty bad there? Couldn't find alot of beta on-line for that route other than it runs 5.8ish. Any other easy-to-protect 5.8ish or less routes in there that might be fun? How long was the drive from here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NYC007 Posted May 15, 2007 Author Share Posted May 15, 2007 about 4 hrs from CDA, ticks were all over the place. There is info on rockclimbing.com and in the guide book, the route goes at about mid 5.10. THere is a slightly runout 5.6 but other than that seems to be mainly 5.9 and above, but I dont have the up to date book. http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Montana/South_West/Blodgett_Canyon/Nez_Perce/Southwest_Buttress_52039.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlag Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 this place is a tick rearing ground. I remember hearing that at some point they did some "Rocky mountain fever" research in Blodgett years ago. When i lived there a guy i know got it while climbing up there, he was down for a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 The rumor is, spotted ticks are female and some of those carry the fever. White attracts them far more than dark colored clothing. They hang out in brush along game trails. Remove them by putting a hot knife tip on their butt or butter over them. They breathe through their butt so the idea is to force them to let go and seek air. Random trivia, I have a tick head in the back of my scalp from 3 decades ago. It has built up a cycst around it and is a 1/4" to 1/2" lump now. Sometimes it talks to me. They say you never get over "the fever". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crackers Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 stories are that the tick is what drove Raf to the edge... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 I didn't think they got that big. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 That would explain the deep voice...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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