fenderfour Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 Trip: Index/11Worth - Green Drag-On/Bath tub Dome Date: 5/5/2007 Trip Report: I climbed this weekend. Yeah, maybe I am bragging. You should have gone climbing too. On Saturday CCMeter and I climbed Green Drag-On. We got to the base of the climb and found the Mountaineer's Mentor group. Two people were heading up Town Crier, Two were aiming for Green Drag-On, Three moved out to Dana's Arch. Fortunately for us, the Mounties were very polite and allowed us to climb through. While they worked the real first pitch of Green Drag-On, CCMeter aided the very slimy first pitch of Davis-Holland. We had climbed it (free) a few weeks ago. He said that it was easier free climbing than aid. Those corners fight against you and your gear for some reason. Cleaning that pitch on ascenders is kind of a bitch too. The folks had a ton of questions about the Russian Aid system we were using. Russian Aiders = good times Second pitch was thin and steenky. I felt like I was climbing in a fish bowl. BTW - who bolted the lower section? Was this to stop people from using pitons? A lot of cam hook placements made this pitch interesting. I left the rest of the hooks in the bag at the belay. I could have made a couple of bomber hook placements instead of relying on sketchy gear and taking a short daisy fall (NOOB!). Next pitch was pretty straight forward up to the roof. CCMeter lead it in fine style. At the belay, he said he could have placed about 100 HB offset alloys had they been available. I only have one set . I've been to MountainTools.com and pre-ordered some more. Delivery is Sept/Oct. I got the roof to the overhanging crack. Another Noob manuever sent my #3 ballnut into the abyss. Some bolts lead to an easy (but exciting) hook move to the belay. Seeing a few more bolts and then free climbing, we decided to rappel from here. We had our aid-brains in and no climbing shoes. It was a good day out on some slightly more difficult aid. On Sunday I met up with Octavius and a few others for cragging in the Icicle. We hiked up to Bathtub Dome and tooled around. This was the laziest climbing day I've had in a long time. We climbed the routes on the lower tier and moved to the right. I started climbing what I thought was "Chitlin" in the latest Kramar guide. I topped out at the chains with a full rack of gear wondering why Kramar said the 70' pitch was 180' and why I needed gear to 2" for the 7 clips. Does anyone know the story with this climb? It was to climber's right of the lower tier of Bathtub. A really nice clean low-angle slab with a couple patches of exfoliated patina exposing golden granite beneath. It felt 5.8/5.9 and it was pretty clearly shown as Chitlins in the picture. On the way to Gustav's we stopped for a quick run up Cocaine Connection before the rain came in. To make up for having too much gear on the slab earlier in the day, we didn't bring any for Cocaine Connection. We stopped at the first belay after only located one bolt for the next pitch. I've climbed Cocaine Connection to R&D, but that was a few years ago. All of the masturbation must be affecting my memory. Went to Gustav's for a rueben and beer. A 7 oz box of Everlasting Gobstoppers got me home. I was pretty disappointed when they did end. Yeah, so get out there. Climb some shit. Gear Notes: Green Drag-On Rack: Cam Hooks, double set of cams to #3, BallNutz, one BD Talon hook "Chitlins" rack: Full set of cams to #3, set of nuts. This gear is only to carry up the route so you can "Keep it real" Approach Notes: Hike the trail. Sweat. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 Nice tr, but a bit of TMI in there, don't you think?? Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 The best routes on Bath Tub Dome are on the third tier. Best thing to do is climb bottom to top, like a multipitch, 5.6, 5.7, 5.8. Then go back and do the other third tier routes. Quote
fenderfour Posted May 7, 2007 Author Posted May 7, 2007 That was the plan, but our laziness interfered with the execution. Quote
Sol Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 beg of P2 was bolted by Andy DeKlerk for this route rise and fall which follows those bolts left at 5.12, looks like a striking line. Quote
fenderfour Posted May 7, 2007 Author Posted May 7, 2007 It seems more like a bolt ladder than a sport route. maybe somebody else added some more. Thanks for the info. Quote
underworld Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 GD can be climbed with no hooks... the hook move to the free move on the upper pitch can be avoided with an upside-down blue zero cam. Quote
counterfeitfake Posted May 8, 2007 Posted May 8, 2007 ...so do that and you'll be able to claim the first hookless ascent. Quote
fenderfour Posted May 8, 2007 Author Posted May 8, 2007 I didn't know cams had a "right side up" I need more practice with the hooks anyway. Quote
underworld Posted May 8, 2007 Posted May 8, 2007 i claim the 1st hookless ascent!! I didn't know cams had a "right side up" Quote
fenderfour Posted May 8, 2007 Author Posted May 8, 2007 Yep, that's what I hooked. A left lean helped keep the hook on. Did you take pics of every placement? Quote
slaphappy Posted May 8, 2007 Posted May 8, 2007 On Sunday I met up with Octavius and a few others for cragging in the Icicle. We hiked up to Bathtub Dome and tooled around. This was the laziest climbing day I've had in a long time. We climbed the routes on the lower tier and moved to the right. I started climbing what I thought was "Chitlin" in the latest Kramar guide. I topped out at the chains with a full rack of gear wondering why Kramar said the 70' pitch was 180' and why I needed gear to 2" for the 7 clips. Does anyone know the story with this climb? It was to climber's right of the lower tier of Bathtub. A really nice clean low-angle slab with a couple patches of exfoliated patina exposing golden granite beneath. It felt 5.8/5.9 and it was pretty clearly shown as Chitlins in the picture. What you climbed was "Crickets". "Chitlins" clips the first bolt (buttonhead) and moves left into the blocky corner and follows nondescript moss patches and rhubarb to the top of the cliff. VK was misinformed on the details which is why it is wrong in the current guidebook. The first ascentionists of "Crickets" rated the route 10b, I think it is more accurately 5.9+/10a. 5.8 would be a bit of a sand bag IMO. Tis a fun quality route. (The anchor chains and all bolts are easily viewed from the base and could/should have indicated the books error before you left the ground yielding a "full rack"...) - Quote
counterfeitfake Posted May 8, 2007 Posted May 8, 2007 i claim the 1st hookless ascent!! The other dude in your party was pretty glad to be hooking all over the fourth pitch... Quote
fenderfour Posted May 8, 2007 Author Posted May 8, 2007 On Sunday I met up with Octavius and a few others for cragging in the Icicle. We hiked up to Bathtub Dome and tooled around. This was the laziest climbing day I've had in a long time. We climbed the routes on the lower tier and moved to the right. I started climbing what I thought was "Chitlin" in the latest Kramar guide. I topped out at the chains with a full rack of gear wondering why Kramar said the 70' pitch was 180' and why I needed gear to 2" for the 7 clips. Does anyone know the story with this climb? It was to climber's right of the lower tier of Bathtub. A really nice clean low-angle slab with a couple patches of exfoliated patina exposing golden granite beneath. It felt 5.8/5.9 and it was pretty clearly shown as Chitlins in the picture. What you climbed was "Crickets". "Chitlins" clips the first bolt (buttonhead) and moves left into the blocky corner and follows nondescript moss patches and rhubarb to the top of the cliff. VK was misinformed on the details which is why it is wrong in the current guidebook. The first ascentionists of "Crickets" rated the route 10b, I think it is more accurately 5.9+/10a. 5.8 would be a bit of a sand bag IMO. Tis a fun quality route. (The anchor chains and all bolts are easily viewed from the base and could/should have indicated the books error before you left the ground yielding a "full rack"...) - Thanks for the info. It felt stiffer than 5.8, but I suck at slab, so I assumed it was my own lack of skill that kept my butthole puckered. You make the assumption that I recon the route before climbing. In this, you are wrong. Besides, I look sexy with a full rack. Quote
slaphappy Posted May 8, 2007 Posted May 8, 2007 recon... or a casual glance... but hey, you know what they say about assumptions? Nice work on the Drag-On. - Quote
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