Shell - Summer Mountaineering

[jared_j]

Hi,

I am taking a glacier climbing course which culminates in a 4 day trip to Baker, and will try a Rainier climb mid-summer if things go well on previous smaller climbs.

 

I own an Arcteryx Gamma MX hoody softshell jacket and a simple Marmot Precip hardshell jacket currently. These have served me fine climbing technical rock in the more moderate climates where I am from.

 

Most 'recommended gear' lists I see suggest a more burly/beefy hardshell, usually something made out of Gore Tex. Given that I have a decent quality softshell, can I get away with the lightweight rainshell I currently have, or is having a more substantial shell essential for climbing some volcanoes this summer?

 

Thanks!

[counterfeitfake]

I think you can totally get away with what you've got in the summertime. I did the same thing you did with a Precip jacket (usually wearing a thermal top and fleece underneath) and it was fine. Do you have a puffy jacket you can throw on when it gets cold?

[jared_j]

Yeah, I've been accumulating bits of the gear I'll need along and along (i.e. paycheck by paycheck), and I got a sick Feathered Friends down jacket. I'm lean and get cold easily so I chose to not skimp on the insulating layer.

 

I just don't wanna have to fork over for a fancy hardshell since I already have a reasonable one, and a good softshell.

 

It's hard to sift through the marketing hype about what is and isn't necessary. I have no doubt that in the event of being caught in whiteout conditions, it would be somewhat less bad to have a Goretex shell. It's just an issue of weighing cost versus risk (i.e. expected outcome).

Edited March 26, 2007 by jared_j

[EscalarK2]

Keep in mind, if your taking a guided course, that if it does rain, they will most likly not hike out. You will stay up there for 4 days even in the rain.

 

I think the precip jacket would be fine. But if you could stumble upon something like the Patagonia Grade VI jacket on sale, I would say pick that up. A lil heavier, but worth it especially if you on Baker in May or June.

 

While the cold isnt bad on Baker in May or June, when you are wet, it feels extremely cold. Some of my coldest moments have been on Baker, when I am climbing in the rain.

[kurthicks]

I think the precip jacket would be fine. But if you could stumble upon something like the Patagonia Grade VI jacket on sale, I would say pick that up. A lil heavier, but worth it especially if you on Baker in May or June.

 

good advice. I find that the precip is usually inadequate for anything other than short squalls as it wets out pretty fast (but it dries fast too). My Grade VI stays dry in the multiday rain on Baker...and it allows my wet underlayers to dry out, even while it's raining.

[genepires]

Gotta ask, when is your course? If in august, then I would say the precip is fine as the chances of a long rain is very rare. can happen as we had 5 days of hard hard rain once. but that was very rare. any june trip should expect at least 2 days of rain out of a week. So a goretex type jacket is a very good idea. There are several sub $200 jackets out there. Probably find a $100 jacket if you look around.

 

Your "sick" down jacket may be a little excessive. Might be better off with a thin fleece pullover along with soft shell jacket.

 

Another thougt. I assume you are taking a guided course. If so, try contacting your guide with gear questions.

[jared_j]

I have a Feathered Friends Volant jacket for sittin' still high up. I have a softshell jacket and lighter layers for moving around in.

 

The course I'm taking is a multi - trip one with Bushwhackers (a la Mountaineers, but smaller class size), and I don't think they have an 'official' recommended list. I've scoped out lists from Mountaineers, and Alpine Ascents International's recommended lists for their trips. AAI's list could read "bring the most bling blingin' equipment that money can buy to our course".

 

I am interested in purchasing reasonably versatile equipment, and the Patagonia Grade VI jacket isn't being made anymore, but a comparably priced jacket is the Patagonia Jetstream; it is marketed as a jacket geared towards alpine climbing and backcountry skiing, and looks like it would complement the softshell system I have working nicely.

 

The course does an easy snow camping overnighter, then a four day trip on Baker in early/mid June. The club will be doing a trip up Emmons Glacier on Rainier in late July that I am planning on attending, as well.

 

Edited March 27, 2007 by jared_j

[Mr_Phil]

I'll disagree with Gene and say take the down jacket. I've froze my ass off on big mountains in June wearing a softshell and jacket. There's really not much insulation in a softshell because there is no loft. On one July climb of Rainier, I was wearing my Volant jacket on the way up because the wind was howling.

 

Clothing systems are a personal decision. What works for one person may not work for you. As a newbie, I'd suggest bringing a little too much until you decide what works for you. Being warm and dry is being happy.

 

YMMV.

[genepires]

if the weather is so bad that one needs a down jacket, a large group should not be going up. besides when did a volant be a "sick" down jacket. rock and ice parka is sick.

[jared_j]

I think the Volant is pretty rad, myself, but the cute young brunette salesgirl at Feathered Friends named Kat referred to it as "sick". I'll take her word for it...

Edited March 29, 2007 by jared_j