[TR] Tumwater Canyon Cragging - Various Routes at Clem's Holler and Retardant Rock 3/25/2007

[catbirdseat]

Trip: Tumwater Canyon Cragging - Various Routes at Clem's Holler and Retardant Rock

 

Date: 3/25/2007

 

Trip Report:

MCash, Bruce and I went to do Midnight Rock, but at the lot found it had just rained. Since we didn't want to get all wet hiking to routes that might still be wet, so we went to Clem's Holler instead. Some routes on the right were still wet, so I "warmed up" on Gun Rack, blew it yet again trying to clip over the roof from a poor stance, pumped out and had to hang at the crux, then sent it. Great route. There's always next time.

 

By now, Nettlesome had dried out. The third 5.10 pitch turned out to be wet in a few crucial spots which we couldn't see until we got there. I cheated around one spot to get to the chains. A pretty good route. Definitely bring enough draws to combine pitches 1 and 2 because, pitch 2 is short and not that memorable.

 

We moved on to Retardant Rock. There were a few small trees down on the trail. If you go, be a trooper and bring a small hand saw to remove them.

 

Martin led Seven Seas, 5.7, a very fun route, somewhat stiff for the grade. The rock is amazingly grippy and coarse. Bruce led Agent Orange, 5.8, and okay route.

 

Highlight of the afternoon for me was leading Red Tide, 5.10a. I'd top roped this about two years ago and thought it was very hard for the rating. I still do. First clip is way off the ground with a poor clipping stance. I fell before making the clip and careened down the dirt slope, stopping just short of a sharp boulder. I got back on, made the clip, and continued on up. This route has some amazing climbing on it, but it is way harder than any 5.10a I've ever done.

 

Gear Notes:

Small rack of cams 1/2" to 2" and a bunch of draws. 50 m rope okay for Clem's. A 60 m is needed for Retardant Rock.

 

Approach Notes:

Trail could use some maintenance. Bring a small hand saw.

 

Only a few patches of snow in shady spots. Routes dry out quickly after rain.

[kevbone]

Nice....pictures????

[Weekend_Climberz]

At least you didn't have to grab a rattlesnake for a handhold

[MCash]

Fun times. I was kinda bummed not getting up to Midnight, but it turned out to be a nice day in the warm sun. I'll upload some photos tonight.

[genepires]

things were crazy crowded in the icicle. 3 groups at alphabet rock and 5 or 6 at careno corners. All good folks with same plans.

[catbirdseat]

We saw one other party of two who came up at noon. They'd spent the morning on Groundhog Day.

[telemarker]

Yep, I though Red Tide was a bit disproportionate grade-wise to the other routes in the area, but I think it's fair for the grade. It did catch my by surprise, though. It reminds me of 2nd pitch of Honky's Lament at Clem's. Also stiff compared to the other climbs on that crag, but lots of fun.

[catbirdseat]

Do you think the 5.10c to the left of Red Tide is two letter grades harder? That would be hard!

[telemarker]

Yeah, I lead that one too, and it's definitely different in character, and harder, to the rest of the newer climbs up there. The start to Red Tide definitely grabs your attention.

[MCash]

Bruce on the first pitch of Playin' Possum.

 

 

Me on the 3rd pitch of Playin' Possum.

 

 

Bruce pulling over the first roof section while following the first pitch of Gun Rack.

 

 

Bruce following the 2nd pitch of Gun Rack.

 

 

Bruce on Agent Orange.

 

 

Brian on Red Tide. This pitch felt more like mid 5.10 to me, not the 10a in the guidebook.