Grivel G12s or Charlet Moser S12s or ...?

[Jon_Bernard]

Hi,

I need to buy my first pair of 12 pt mountaineering crampons. Both the Grivels and the CMs were recommended to me. What does everyone think of these? Or is there another model you'd recommend?

Thanks,

Jon

[Dru]

I use "technical" crampons (Grivel Grade 8's) for all cramponing nowadays and they work fine. But if you want fully flexible crampons for 'floppy' leather boots I have had good experiences with Grivel F2's but get an antibotte plate (actually get antibottes for whatever crampon you buy).

[verticalturtle]

If you like a bail up front Sabertooth.

They do it all well. I got a pair for this winter and used them for waterfall ice to 5+ for all but 1 trip. Due to their horizontal front points they do climb neve like a dream.(by the way the exception tri I had the new M10, A+)

If you want to be able to do it all with (almost) every boot CM s12 w/ front straps. This poojab will allow you to attach them to an excellent boot like the La Sportiva Trango Plus( as well as others in this expanding category). Grivel makes a model similar to this that should also work well, I just happen to have had excellent expirience with my CMs.

I work in a gear shop and see most of the stuff that comes out, and get a chance to try or buy most of it. You will not go wrong with most of the major manufacturers (i.e. CM, Grivel, BD) the single most important thing to ask is what you will be using it for, and determine the KIND of crampon you want. That is, what you want it to do for you. One thing to consider is attachment. For the most part full straps are antiquated. They are slow to put on and if you do much reading you will come across acounts of those whose full straps have blown off. On the other hand You will be hard pressed to find an account of an expirienced climber whose step-ins popped off (although I do not doubt that this may have happened). The hybred type like I described earlier combine ease versatility and will take only seconds longer to put on, if any time at all.

Consider this and you should find somethig good. Read these strings and you will also find much brand loyalty. Mine happens to be Charlet.

Good luck and happy climbing!

[jblakley]

I have a pair of Grivel G12's that work great. Easy to put on when it's cold and they have lots of bite for probably everything short of waterfall ice.

[Nick]

Stubai also makes an excellent version of the flexible 12 point crampon that is almost exactly the same as the Grivel and the Charlet Moser with two small differrences that made me choose it. I am talking about the "newmatic" type of binding with the quick clamp at the heel and the plastic toe loop held by a single strap. The Stubai seems to have a better buckle on the binding strap, easier to use with gloves on and less likely to ice up than the double ring type of buckle on the others. Also, I talked to one person who has a pair of the Charlet Moser crampons who complained that in certain snow conditions ice balls would form and wedge open the heel clamp, or the heel clamp would catch on hard snow as the foot was lifted, because of the shape of the top of the clamp (it slants up and away from the boot at the top). Both the Stubai and the Grivel have heel clamps that slope up and Towards the boot, so that they will not tend to catch or wedge open. I believe all three of these crampons have an excellent tooth design, with a lot of forward angle on the secondary points in front to give support in front pointing up lower angle and softer snow as well as allowing a more natural, pronating sort of gait when walking. The price on the steel version (there's an aluminum one too) of the Stubai recently dropped below $100 at Pro Mountain Sports in Seattle.

[highclimb]

i have a pair a grivel G12.....work great, have no problem climbing slush to WI3+ (thats the hardest water ice i can climb). and the are great for alpine climbing because they are compact and LIGHT!...buy the antisnow plate for them, it will reduce the risk of sliping.

Aidan

[Jon_Bernard]

Thanks for your opinions, guys. I think any of the ones you've mentioned will do me just fine.

[erik]

jon,

i would wait until bd unleashes their new crampons. these things are killer, built like a standard crampon but they vertical orianted front points. they are called the bionics. and should be priced right around the competition.

if you want we have a pair of makos for sale real cheap and they are in good condition.

i have the g12 and think of them as okay...i mean when you are walking on snow what do you really need. make sure the crampon will fit your boot, that is about the most important thing.....

[EddieE]

All crampons nowadays do a good job. I prefer the CM Black Ice with the more aggressive secondary points. The most important thing you need to do is bring your boots in and get the ones that fit them the best.

[none_dup1]

I'm with Nick on the the Stubai Tirol with the Combi binding. They're great. And once you see Stubai Girl on the Pro Mountain Sports website (crampon section), you'll want them too.

[dbb]

I have a pair of the "newmatic" Grivel G10s for alpine climbing and I love em. They are a full strap on (no lever in the back) and use two plastic cuffs to hook around the heel and the toe. They are super easy to get on--only one loop to do up, and they have "pointed" horizontal frontpoints instead of "flat" (like SMCs)

I like the fully strap on idea because I can put these crampons on anything. I've stuck them on tennis shoes, sticky weekends, and giant plastic boots. They probably do water ice as well as any other simmilar crampon, but then again, that doesn't seem like what you want em for.

whatever you get, go light.