Weekend_Climberz Posted March 2, 2007 Posted March 2, 2007 I've seen this recently, first hand In this pic, CBS fell just above where he's at in the pic (marked by X) to where I've circled in the lower right. I've also marked where his last screw was placed. He was lucky he fell upside down, that's the best way to do it, helmet first :tup: Quote
sobo Posted March 2, 2007 Posted March 2, 2007 DFlushA's pic is just a red x in a box. Won't D/L. WC: Did CBS pull any screws? That seems like a long fall, but it might be the angle of the shot, too. How far was it? I take it he's OK, although falling upside down sounds like it might be hard on the back. Where was the shot taken? EDIT: DFA's link worked. YIKES!!!!1 EDITED EDIT: Thanks for fixing the "red x in box" thingie, DFA. It shows up proper now. Still, just plain scary! Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted March 2, 2007 Posted March 2, 2007 WC: Did CBS pull any screws? That seems like a long fall, but it might be the angle of the shot, too. How far was it? I take it he's OK, although falling upside down sounds like it might be hard on the back. Where was the shot taken? Yeah, it's a bit foreshortened, but in all it was about a 30 footer. He was about 10 feet above the last screw and he pulled me up off the belay a few feet and with rope stretch it was a good distance. The pic was taken on Weeping Wall Left. He placed the screw to the right of the bad ice that he's climbing and only about 2cm of ice shattered around the tube. No screamer, too. Makes me much more confident in falling on one of those babies as long as the ice is good. Quote
sobo Posted March 2, 2007 Posted March 2, 2007 Yikes! A 30-footer on ice! I've taken several 30-footers in my career, but NEVER on ice. Gives me shivers to think of falling with all those pointy bits thrashing around. I take it he's OK. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted March 2, 2007 Posted March 2, 2007 He was fine, not a scratch. I ended up with a bloody chin since I had both hands on the rope and stopped his fall with my face Freaked me out more than it did him Afterwards, we had a long discussion about the rules of ice climbing. Rule #1: Don't fall on ice Quote
David Trippett Posted March 2, 2007 Posted March 2, 2007 other than gravity..... What caused the fall? Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted March 2, 2007 Posted March 2, 2007 He could tell you best, but a classic n00b mistake that I fortunately learned the easy way. He placed both his tools side by side and when the second fractured through to the first, it ripped a chuck of ice out along with his tools. Quote
sobo Posted March 2, 2007 Posted March 2, 2007 Well, not necessarily entirely the easy way... Look at your face. But the point is taken. Saw something similar happen to a bud of mine many years ago while he was warming up on Tangle Falls near the Hilda Creek hostel. He popped off on the exit move, not having placed an "exit screw". His last piece was about 15 feet below him, and since it was only WI-2/easy 3, he figured, "What the hell, I'm topped out, just pull over the lip and we're done here." You can imagine the rest. He decks on the ledge a couple dozen feet or so below, landing on one of his tools. I shout up to ask if he's all right... Him: Uhhh, yeah I think so. Me: Can you stand up and get another point in so we can lower you? Him: Uhhh, yeah I think so. Hang on a minute. Upon standing up, we all notice that there is an ice tool sticking out of his booted ankle. Him: Uhhh, I don't think this looks so good. My foot is starting to feel warm... and wet... Me: Hang on, we'll be right up to get you down. Fortunately, the pick did not penetrate his ankle bone, but had instead "arced" into his boot just under the heel, and it was the teeth of the axe that were slicing into his foot and causing him to bleed into the boot. We got him down and patched him up, although he was not into leading for the rest of that trip. Quote
Kraken Posted March 3, 2007 Posted March 3, 2007 I took a 48 footer last season doing just that. I was exiting and had a screw 15 feet below me and my tool ripped out over the bulge. I stopped less than 5 feet from the ground. Fell on a stubby with about 1-2 CM punched through a curtain, luckily the screamer fully extended. Screws hold if the ice is good, just don't fall. 2/3 falls will result in you hitting the ground. Quote
sobo Posted March 3, 2007 Posted March 3, 2007 I took a 48 footer last season... Yowzerz!!!1 I can't even imagine that on ice. Never fallen that far, even on rock, but I still can't even imagine that on ice. That's gotta hurt. Quote
catbirdseat Posted March 3, 2007 Posted March 3, 2007 There is a spot in the sacral area of my lower back that is still rather tender. I'm not sure whether it was bruise by impact or strained. Quote
sobo Posted March 3, 2007 Posted March 3, 2007 An ice tool into his foot? Wow. Zero points for reading comprehension. Let's review: ...Fortunately, the pick did not penetrate his ankle bone, but had instead "arced" into his boot just under the heel, and it was the teeth of the axe that were slicing into his foot and causing him to bleed into the boot. emphasis added to assist in reading comprehension One of the guys with us took a picture of my bud proudly displaying his tres chic ice tool/footware ensemble before we lowered him down. Tragically, that picture has been lost to the ravages of multiple moves over the years. It was going to have a permanent place in my PPT presentation on what NOT to do while ice climbing. Quote
kevino Posted March 4, 2007 Posted March 4, 2007 Zero points for reading comprehension. Let's review: No need to be a dick. The ice tool still sliced into his foot, did it not? Hence the bleeding? Quote
sobo Posted March 4, 2007 Posted March 4, 2007 I can't help it. I am a dick. No two ways around it. It's like asking a circle not to be round. Quote
kevino Posted March 5, 2007 Posted March 5, 2007 (edited) Touche, sir. Much like my roommate. Edited March 5, 2007 by kevino Quote
Dechristo Posted March 5, 2007 Posted March 5, 2007 Blimey, super pic. No Axes? Another advantage of going leashless. - 02/Mar/07 Quote
sobo Posted March 6, 2007 Posted March 6, 2007 Touche, sir. Much like my roommate. When I made my first reply to you, I actually thought you were someone else on this board with a similar avatar. After the "reading comprehension" flame on you, and your reply, I realized that you were NOT kevbone, but the damage had already been done. I couldn't very well excuse my own lack of reading comprehension (of your avatar name), now could I? So I had to offer that I am indeed a dick. As you so aptly put it, "Touche', sir." You got me on that one. Carry on! Quote
kevino Posted March 7, 2007 Posted March 7, 2007 Touche, sir. Much like my roommate. When I made my first reply to you, I actually thought you were someone else on this board with a similar avatar. After the "reading comprehension" flame on you, and your reply, I realized that you were NOT kevbone, but the damage had already been done. I couldn't very well excuse my own lack of reading comprehension (of your avatar name), now could I? So I had to offer that I am indeed a dick. As you so aptly put it, "Touche', sir." You got me on that one. Carry on! Its all good man. Life goes on. Quote
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