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dan_e

Trango Ice Clip

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I am submitting some personal opinions for some new gear that I've used this season, this one being the first.

Trango Ice Clip

Description: A small, light clip for racking screws and or quickdraws. Made of aluminum and stainless steel.

Positive: Much faster removal of ice screws from the harness. Space saver and organizer.

Negative: Must rack all of the same size screw. Other items (slings/biners) can clip themselves in when you don't want them to (rare). Digs into hip unless you have lots of padding (mostly when bending over and depends on location. Limited areas to place on harness.

Summary: I love it, even though I thought of more negatives than positives. Great for panic pieces! I purchased mine at Marmot in Bellevue since they sell them separate. REI only sells them in pairs and was not willing to split them up, BOO!

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Try the Black Diamond Ice Clippers. They are huge, comfortable, and cheap. You can even clip your tools to them for rappels and sections of toolless climbing. I find them to be a convenient place for racking all kinds of stuff when not on lead.

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The BD Ice Clipper certainly seems to do the business. I'm sure a carbon fiber one is in the works for about $50 for those of us who feel a bit uncomfortable owning a bit of BD gear that can be described as cheap.

The wire gate on the Ice Clipper really helps, it gives you a nice flat surface to push against when racking/unracking screws. I use an Ice Clipper for Express Screws (to be placed on steep sections) and wire gate biners for the rest.

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The reason why the ice clip works well is that it only sticks out 3/4 of an inch from your harness. The BD looks way too big, and that other one looks even bulkier. I am all for making a homemade job, but this is a simple, inexpensive accessory that works well (a two pack is about 22 bucks). I've used it on about five climbs so far this year.

[This message has been edited by dane (edited 01-23-2001).]

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BTW - It's lame to rate (with stars) something you have yet to even try. If you have ACTUALLY used it (no looking at it in the store does not count) then let us know what you think. Thanks.

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OK you guys...I have BOTH! A trango on my left side and a BD on my right. I bought my trango in Canada for about $5.00. I thought it was a great way to go. Then this year I went into IME in North Conway to get another. They wanted 9 bucks for it! Then I saw the BD for $4.50. Besides the price, I liked the looks of MORE VOLUME and WAY easier to put on and off.

Personally, since I have switched exclusively to BD express screws, I like the BD clipper better because when I rack different size screws, I can still manipulate to the second screw down in the stack. With the trango, you have to take them off in the reverse you put them on, no options. Right now I put leading screws on the right because I tend to use my right (BD)hand to place them. I put the longer belay screws on the left (trango). The trango works fine but if you try to put too many on, they start sticking out at bad angles....a real pant ripper! Also, I concur that after 7 rappels off Drury Falls, I had a welt on my left side and not my right! The trango has a flat metal bar that you have to screw on. The BD has a simple rubber thang that is less obtrusive and way easier to use with no tools. Eventually, I will replace the Trango with another BD and give it to a partner who doesn't have anything! DPP

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quote:

Originally posted by rayborbon:

It is a heavy decision in 2 ways but Pro Mountain Sports is\was as of last Friday selling the Grivel "Guru" screws (floating handles) with thier sheath. Slinging this around your torso on a rack is a great idea no matter what brand of screw you have. No worrries about ripping shell jackets in X-treme weather either. Just remember there is more weight included but not much. I am sold on these at my level of climbing (lead grade 3 ice) even with thier minute weight addition. Not to mention I think everyone should have at least one of these Grivel "Guru" screws for those tough times on thier rack.

Get one.

-Ray

 

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I bought my BD Ice Clippers for $5 a piece and think they work great. A number of people I climb with have switched from the Charlet Moser & Trango ice clip versions to the BD because it is just easier to use and has a more positive racking feel. (A number of people seem to be concerned they won't re-rack without dropping a screw with the Moser/Trango versions.)

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What about racking all your screws in one of those old style, dip-to-your-elbow chalk bags, maybe update the design a bit by making it out of kevlar and giving it a mag bag type closure so it didn't drop all your screws if you whipped? grin.gif

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I had a screw come off my Trango "unClipper" Sunday on Loose Lady. I was climbing up the slab and I suddenly heard a screw go falling down. Not good.

It seems like they bend too easily and the spring clip separates from the aluminium frame, allowing screws to just fall off.

-CC

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I have used the Trango ice clips and I think they suck. I junked mine.

A good bent gate biner and some rubber from a bike tube work just fine.

The BD model does look like it would work well. ArcTerex makes a rubber band type thing that holds a bent gate in place....they rock.

------------------

Have a nice day.

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I totally agree with Rodchester, I've used a wire gate to rack screws and really like it. Stick about 3 screws per biner with the opening down. When you want a screw, just lift it up, push the hanger onto the gate and off it comes. Those rubber things can help to keep the biner in place too.

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Mine still seem to work fine, but I did drop a screw while I was loading it up before a climb which was Loose Lady! The spring steel piece should not be bending unless it was not heat treated correctly. I guess I will keep using mine until they break or I drop a screw. I have found that they can only hold 4-5 screws, if you load up with more they don't rack well.

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Hmm, maybe it is just bad karma at Loose Lady? I almost walked away from my Suunto down lower.

Both the aluminum frame and the spring are bending. The spring is a bitch to bend back- I have to use pliers.

I think the spring catches on clothes and gear and gets bent. I'm going to try the wire gates next trip.

-CC

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Guest

Feathered Frinds have received a bunch of BD Ice Clippers. It is the best (!!!), I had the CM thingy similar to Trango and just gave it back to Jim N. Wiregates work fine except the Ice Clipper is bigger.

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I've been using the Charlet screw clip and have no complaints, it's FAST and simple to use.

Haven't had any problems with gear falling out, it's solid, and you don't even know it's there 'til you need it. It was $15 at MEC.

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