jstreet Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 (edited) This was my first time climbing with Alex and I was delighted. I was NOT delighted with the 2:30am Sunday morning wakeup time but that’s what it takes. So up I got and over to Alex’s house I went. We loaded up his car and off we went with a blessed snowmobile in tow. At the trailhead, with a little cajoling, we got the snowmobile started and off we went zipping up the road with the greatest of ease. Thirty minutes later we were at the end of the road and donned our snowshoes and packs for a 30 minutes walk to the base of the routes. As we neared the cliffs we saw lots of routes, some never seen before, others in better shape than usual. On arrival at the motherlode area we decided to climb a 2 pitch unclimbed line referred to in the WA Ice Guide as “Unclimbed C”. We’re calling it “Bleeder Project” and we think it’s a WI 4. It’s mostly 3+’ish but it has one relatively short steep and a bit tricky section that probably warrants an overall rating of 4. Just to the right of “Bleeder Project”, in a deep recess in the cliff, is the picturesque “Ice Dreams” climb which Alex lead in fine style. After that we only had time for one more route and had to choose between “Unclimbed B” which looked like WI 4-5 and possibly at little thin or the classic and beautiful “Dropline”. We hesitated about climbing “Dropline” because it looked like someone had nabbed the first ascent the day before but it is just so nice looking we decided to do it anyway. At the base of the route we realized that there was a bail screw half way up the route and we thought; OK even better, the FA is still up for grabs. We guessed that the valiant attempt was probably the work of AlpineMonkey (CC.com) and on return to home this was confirmed. AlpineMonkey has been exploring and climbing extensively at Strobach this season and has provided lots of good information. Thankfully I managed to lead it to the top, Yahoo! “Dropline” may at times be in WI 5 condition but we feel that for our ascent WI 4+ is probably more accurate. Here are some photo’s. First view of the motherlode area Getting close to the Motherlode Alex gazes up at the ice “Right Stuff “ and “Dropline” look good “Sudden Change of Plan”, “Sad Ce’bu”, “Right Stuff” and “Dropline” (left to right) Alex approaches our first objective “Bleeder Project” “Bleeder Project” up close (photo taken by Alpine Monkey, we left our camera out of reach on this route) Alex heads up the approach gulley to “Ice Dreams” Alex leading “Ice Dreams” “Unclimbed A” and “Unclimbed B” (WA Ice Giude) “Dropline” up close “Dropline” getting personal for Jeff as he starts his lead Up… Up.. And away. Edited January 22, 2007 by jstreet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Hell, yeah :tup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 Shit that stuff looks fat. Nice jorb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstreet Posted January 23, 2007 Author Share Posted January 23, 2007 Thanks guys. God that was fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 Looks like a blast. The approach sounds like a breeze with the sled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 It has been my experience that it is safer to clip just one rope into an ice screw. It lowers the impact force and you have a greater chance of the screw holding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 It has been my experience that it is safer to clip just one rope into an ice screw. It lowers the impact force and you have a greater chance of the screw holding. Depends on what kind of ropes you're using. If you're using twin ropes and you only clip one in, you're going to go for a very long ride before the rope stretch catches you. That's the fattest I've ever seen Strobach. The Right Stuff has never been more than a smear on my three trips back there. Are there still people saying there's no ice in Washington? Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielHarro Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 how many miles is the approch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 The ropes are twins ("ice floss"), one should be clipping both strands. The approach up the road is 6-7 miles, but the snowshoe approach to Split Rock is shorter, maybe more like 3 or 4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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