kevbone Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 This climb is a Smith Rock in the Marsupials. It is a combination of a few different routes and summits. Very cool. Very easy and exposed. I did this climb on 10/07/06 and would repeat it anytime. The best way to do it is to hike you pack to the rappel at the top and rack up. Run down and climb the 5-8 pitches back up to your packs. Then off to more great climbing in the Marsup’s. Round river is also a classic, just across the way. If you climb Round river first with your packs on, then you are even with were the rap is on the Marsupial Traverse. Just walk across the hill and proceed. This gets you about 11 pitches in before lunch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 Fern and I and a Scottish guy did Marsup Trav and Wherever I May WaitInLineonaBelayLedge and something else, all in a day and we didn't have to run either. ROOOOOAR! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 Cave Route is also kind of a cool route there. Could do Round River, Marsup. Trav., & then CR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 9, 2007 Author Share Posted January 9, 2007 Cripper and I climber Round River, masipial traverse then 4 sporto routes on the north side of mini half dome then up mini half dome then another 10- on the other side of mini half dome. 19 pitches in all (as the book would tell it). Pretty cool area. Gotta love the marsups Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvshaker Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 Just did Thin Air, then the following two bolted pitches of 10a to the top of Koala. Great link. But I gotta know if anyone else thought the two cruxes (10a they say) on each pitch were anywhere close to reality. Maybe it was just cold.....but I had to pull pretty hard to get through them. Consenus? The Marsoups rock. Delerium Tremens in Jan...COLD! But Gooooood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 12, 2007 Author Share Posted January 12, 2007 I have done Thin Air (just the first pitch) 5.8 I believe, I heard the second and third pitch had a crux hold bread about 5 years ago making both pitchs come in around hard 10.b. Delerium Tremens is beautiful. Nice lead.....not a gime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 wtf does hard 10b mean? it's 10b or it's not. none of this hard 10bcbbc b.s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 Is it 10b Squamish or 10b Index? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 12, 2007 Author Share Posted January 12, 2007 wtf does hard 10b mean? it's 10b or it's not. none of this hard 10bcbbc b.s. You know what hard 10b means! ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 did the traverse have a pouch with baby traverse's in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 The best is the lawson 5.10x rating so people think you're all core and shit when you mention it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlag Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 10b is a stretch on those pitches, especially the 2nd. 5.9 even when it's cold. The top pitch most people clip and then traverse a good 6ft. to the right and pull over on big holds, no feet. Actually about 10 years ago a 2x2 chunk fell off the bottom of the first pitch. I'd say it bumped up to easy 5.9 after that. Your rope tarp is on the piece when you belay. You can see how it fits into the gap. My favorite multi-pitch in the park. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 12, 2007 Author Share Posted January 12, 2007 I climbed the first pitch about 4 years ago. I knocked off a 10 pound block at the crux. It came out while yanking on a big nut. The nut was good, but the rock around the nut was not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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