kevbone Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 The simul-climb thread obviously promted this. I was in squamish on 9/11/01. My partners and I headed up to climb Deirdre. I wanted to climb it, being the most popular climb in western Canada. Nobody was on it. The plan was to simul up to the base of the dihedral, we ended up simul-climbing the entire route in one pitch. 3 of us on 1 rope. It went by so fast. The book calls it 7 pitches. Try 1. Same partners. We simuled Solar Slab at redrocks, also 3 climbers on 1 rope. We did it in 2 pitches. Book calls it 17 pitches. We did it in about 35 minutes. Don’t fall! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Your Mom and Your Sister 8D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 After I climbed Deidre I really wanted to go back and simul the whole thing, it seemed like it would be fun and good practice. Good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 totally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Upper North Ridge of Stuart W Ridge of Forbidde NE Ridge of Triumph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iciclespyder Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 The simul-climb thread obviously promted this. I was in squamish on 9/11/01. My partners and I headed up to climb Deirdre. I wanted to climb it, being the most popular climb in western Canada. Nobody was on it. The plan was to simul up to the base of the dihedral, we ended up simul-climbing the entire route in one pitch. 3 of us on 1 rope. It went by so fast. The book calls it 7 pitches. Try 1. Same partners. We simuled Solar Slab at redrocks, also 3 climbers on 1 rope. We did it in 2 pitches. Book calls it 17 pitches. We did it in about 35 minutes. Don’t fall! Consider leaving the rope behind. Solo climbing without a rope provides a unmatched commitment to an expereince of freedom. And depending upon your simul-climb partner, it may be safer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 It also provides an unmatched commitment to the experience of tumbling many hundreds of feet down the apron... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Simuling on Stuart can suck ass due to rope drag. But it definitely is a nice place. Infinite Bliss is pretty damn good for simuling. There's long runs between the more difficult sections. The bolt density keeps the danger at whatever level you choose and the direct and slabby nature keep rope drag to a minimum. You don't even need to double up the 60. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithisheaven Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Upper North Ridge of Stuart what just the upper? come on now, the whole thing and the gendarme. Do know of a couple of bros who have soloed the whole thing, right cool to do. Takes some nuts though(not wired)lol. skull Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 epinephrine. from the top of the tower to the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iciclespyder Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 It also provides an unmatched commitment to the experience of tumbling many hundreds of feet down the apron... If you think your going to slip on a 5.7 climb, then please don't solo or simul-climb it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Holy shit there are some tough guys in this forum. Off for some shortrope laps on chain. toodleloo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 3, 2007 Author Share Posted January 3, 2007 Simuling on Stuart can suck ass due to rope drag. But it definitely is a nice place. Infinite Bliss is pretty damn good for simuling. There's long runs between the more difficult sections. The bolt density keeps the danger at whatever level you choose and the direct and slabby nature keep rope drag to a minimum. You don't even need to double up the 60. The climbs I simuled are like 5.7 and 5.6, not too much chest thumping there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Your Mom and Your Sister 8D FWA? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 thump thump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 3, 2007 Author Share Posted January 3, 2007 Your Mom and Your Sister 8D Moderator's please show this gentleman the door. Please keep spray in spray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Nice touch! A true chestbeater would have listed the grades as 5.6 and 5.5 . Solar Slab in 35 minutes (was that from the base or the terrace) is some serious speed climbing. Did you use track spikes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Your Mom and Your Sister 8D FWA? Conditions were not frigid in the least! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 3, 2007 Author Share Posted January 3, 2007 Nice touch! A true chestbeater would have listed the grades as 5.6 and 5.5 . Solar Slab in 35 minutes (was that from the base or the terrace) is some serious speed climbing. Did you use track spikes? Are you prepared for the thump? From the base! With only one stop about 4 pitches from the top, it was constant climbing, my partners all climbed very fast. About a year prior, sat at the base of SS and literaly watched a guy solo the entire climb from base to base in one hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 It took us under an hour to climb Solar Slab but it took 4 hours on the descent trying to follow Swain's retarded directions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 It's always the guidebook's fault with you chestbeaters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 I blame society. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 If you think the Swain book is bad, wait until you try the Brock and McMillen book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstach Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 It took us under an hour to climb Solar Slab but it took 4 hours on the descent trying to follow Swain's retarded directions! I've seen alot of complaints about the Swain guide. What book would y'all recommend for Red Rocks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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