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verticalturtle

other routes in Valhalla

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After alot of driving and getting weathered off mant places I was able to do the S Ridge on Gimley last week. Stellar to say the least.

So here is the Q. I know there is a route or two on Dag. Do you do the same approach and drop into the basin or come up through bear country? 2nd; Anyond done the S face route on Asgard?

By the way Dru My partner led the dihedral/ roof pitch and skipped the whole thing infavor of the steep crack to the left which he laybacked. I was hateing him when I say how good the Dihedral looked but to his credit we had no giude and he got suckered off route by an old pin there. Definate canadian .9 variation.

[This message has been edited by verticalturtle (edited 09-16-2001).]

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quote:

Originally posted by verticalturtle:

By the way Dru My partner led the dihedral/ roof pitch and skipped the whole thing infavor of the steep crack to the left which he laybacked.

[This message has been edited by verticalturtle (edited 09-16-2001).]

dru!!!! laybacking a crack where's the style points in that!!!. i was taught you only laybacked cracks you were not good enough to jam!!!! wink.gif

 

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Originally posted by verticalturtle:

Anyond done the S face route on Asgard?

I tried it two summers ago. Found it to be very tricky route-finding, got up two pitches and bailed. We went too far to the left (West) while zig-zagging up the face past old pins. Got into a section of very shattered, white rock. Lowered off a Lost Arrow from my high point, then rapped down the first pitch. We still don't know where the route goes. I'll be back to find out, some day.

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I nearly did that crack too but the dihedral & roof looked easier. Thank god for the Dihedral.

Laybacking = "the technique of no technique" (this quote courtesy of Luc Mailloux c. 1996)

Tape = "tape is aid". (Eric Hutton c. 1995)

I have a copy of the 1974 CAJ with the line of the route on Asgard S. face marked in the photo.

Dag has at least 3 routes on the N. face. only 1 mentioned in guidebook. Info on 2 more in new route book at Valhalla Pure - Nelson. Approach via Mulvey Creek is blocked by private property so you gotta come in over the ridge from gimli to Mulvey lakes then down valley, have fun humpin the gear rolleyes.gif

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Hey Drul what are those peaks to the ?west? I think it was of Slesse. They sit just across from the descent. I can imagine bushwacking your way up one of those!

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The Canadian and American Border Peaks are across from slesse. rock is trash. best approach is out of logging roads in Tamihi creek. best climbed in spring.

next one past those is mcguire. limestone!!!! thats where I was on Sunday.

lessee -did you read some hesse on slesse? did it get messy? were your clothes dressy?

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