denalidevo Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Climb: Snow Creek Wall-Outer Space Date of Climb: 10/23/2006 Trip Report: Climbed Outer Space w/ Dave H. Monday - my first time on this classic. It was a beautiful day - not warm but not particularly cold. The golden leaves of fall were vibrant. We had a short run of sun on the 3rd and 4th pitches, other than that we were in the shade. We did the direct start (Remorse) as suggested by Nelson. Dave thought this was better than the first pitches of the traditional route. Dave led the 5.9 taverse above two tree ledge - some good exposure there! I led the thin finger crack on the final pitch. I don't do much thin crack and found the first couple moves strenuous. Ran the 60M rope to the limit to make the last belay (horiz. crack approx. 25' above the roof w/ the HUGE chicken heads). Nelson's description says this as a 160' pitch that ends just short of the top. Not sure if or where I might have gone wrong. We climbed the route in 7 hrs - not bad. By the time we scrambled to the base the sun was setting and we hiked the two miles back to the car in the dark. Dave forgot his headlamp but lucky for him I had a spare! Highlight of the day: seeing a horizontal rainbow hovering directly overhead on pitch 5, created by sun rays filtering through the clouds above. Way cool. Wish I'd had my camera. Gear Notes: Doubles in the .75-2 camalots, one #3 cam, TCU's, stoppers w/a few extra HB offset nuts that kicked a$$, #9 & 10 hex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 I think the guide assumes a belay on the shelf above the crack end but below the final chickenhead headwall. Good job extending the season and avoiding the crowds on this classic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Nice. I wish I could climb it for the first time again. Try Orbit next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 yeah, those first couple crack moves on the last real pitch kinda caught me off guard as well. I think the fact that the crack is bomber hands/feet with good knobs for 100' below that makes those couple moves off the belay seem harder than they really are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 yeah, those first couple crack moves on the last real pitch kinda caught me off guard as well. I think the fact that the crack is bomber hands/feet with good knobs for 100' below that makes those couple moves off the belay seem harder than they really are. True....true..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle_Flick Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Snow Creek Wall had hardly anyone on it Sat. Outer Space is getting less sun during the day, leaving Orbit, Mary Jane Dihedral and Iconoclast/Hyperspace in the sun most of the day (more south facing). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 try satellite or Ctong! also good southern exposure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithisheaven Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 r u really saying that 7 hours is a good time for a 6 pitch route with a single 10b move and a 5.9 traverse, considering u did the remorse start. When u get around 2 hours or so then pop off. Then you can do both in a day (orbit) as well. But 1+ hour(s) per pitch....wow....like not fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 If you did the direct 10B start you climb on a route called RPM not Remorse. I do not think denalidevo was braggin about a speed record mr Smithisnotheaven. Either way who gives a FK? Has anyone ever climbed Outerspace, Orbit and MaryJane in a day??? I have done OS and MJ and OB and OS in a day, but never all 3... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreetBoss Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 I've done the OS - OB in a day. Great link. Another fun link up in Iconoclast & Orbit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 r u really saying that 7 hours is a good time for a 6 pitch route with a single 10b move and a 5.9 traverse, considering u did the remorse start. When u get around 2 hours or so then pop off. Then you can do both in a day (orbit) as well. But 1+ hour(s) per pitch....wow....like not fast. Yeah, RPM, the coolest way to 2 tree ledge. Anyone ever finish off the shield via Edge of Space? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 RPM is much more interesting and often less crowded than the standard OS start.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithisheaven Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 Sweet pic J. I like the other 1 on library ledge Ha Ha. Yyea I mis-spoke on the remorse start must of had some brain fade since I did not get on it this year. Also have done OS + Orbit in less than a day. Bout 6 hours for both including descent back to Orbit start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Sweet pic J. I like the other 1 on library ledge Ha Ha. You mean this one, eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Natural Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Bart and Miles (GO MI!) got the coveted OS, Orbit, Iconoclast link up several years ago, though I am sure they werent the first. I think they were both still in highschool at the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithisheaven Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Yeah thats tha 1. Cold that day eh? No crowds and cool granite. Loved that day. Nice to be out when the snow is about. Your the photog man, man. Didnt we get a pink point on the route that day? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 r u really saying that 7 hours is a good time for a 6 pitch route with a single 10b move and a 5.9 traverse, considering u did the remorse start. When u get around 2 hours or so then pop off. Then you can do both in a day (orbit) as well. But 1+ hour(s) per pitch....wow....like not fast. Also have done OS + Orbit in less than a day. Bout 6 hours for both including descent back to Orbit start. Welcome to CC.com you chest-beating pr?*k...looking forward to more condescension from you in the future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithisheaven Posted November 6, 2006 Share Posted November 6, 2006 No chest beating, just the facts madam. You offend real easy I like that. You should probably find another website if my comments piss you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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