[TR] Beacon Rock- Young Warriors 9/24/2006

[slothrop]

Climb: Beacon Rock-Young Warriors

 

Date of Climb: 9/24/2006

 

Trip Report:

JosephH and a genuine local named Jim graciously showed me around Beacon Rock on Sunday. I'm posting a TR of a cragging trade route because it was lots of fun and I was impressed with Beacon.

 

If you haven't climbed Young Warriors, it's worth a trip to Beacon by itself. I'd go back for sure, especially since Joseph only let me lead the first pitch The rock is great, even on the slightly less solid second pitch, the climbing is varied, and it goes pretty much to the top of the Rock in six pitches. Belays are comfy (especially the first!) and pro is good.

 

Joseph and Jim care a lot about the place and it shows. They've built incredible belay ledges out of moss and rocks, camoflaged the bolts, kept "historical" pins in place, and not scrubbed huge streaks in the rock.

 

Unrelated to YW: If necessary, you can rap from the fat Metolius bolts on the right side of the ledge atop the first pitch of Cruisin' with a single 60m.

 

Gear Notes:

Two 50m ropes for a party of three

Rack to 2.5"

Ten single runners

Ropegun and living guidebook

 

Approach Notes:

Construction on Hwy 14 west of Beacon might slow you down

Edited September 26, 2006 by slothrop

[Cobra_Commander]

haven't you learned that what happens at beacon stays at beacon? joseph and jimmy o what have you been telling this guy while he was there

[slothrop]

Oh, dammit. My TR template accidentally got filled in with "Beacon" and "Young Warriors" instead of "Leavenworth" and "Outer Space".

 

Were you there Sunday? I met a few folks, but try to refrain from the "Who are you on cc.com?" conversation while in the real world.

[Cobra_Commander]

yeah we were there over on wrong gull or whatever that thing is next to little wing. we even stopped and talked to you and jim/joseph a bit. mr. d was doing most of the chitchat though.

[slothrop]

Aha. I saw "PMR" written on something your partner was carrying and I thought you looked familiar, what with your smooth chrome face and everything.

[ivan]

good luck staying on route after pitch 2.5 w/o a guide!

 

a 70 meter is real nice too for the 4th pitch so you can stretch it all the way to the ridge/scramble off - skip everyother bolt and climb high as a kite for the geniune experience

[slothrop]

What, you mean after the blank corner with the two pins? Routefinding didn't look that hard, but that's hindsight for ya.

 

I see what you mean about the genuine experience, though.

[ivan]

just stopping on that ledge requires clairovoyance - there's old pins and bolts all over the place to make you want to go right there. i first climbed that route w/ layton shortly after moving out here and niether of us knew where the hell we were going - to this day i look around and can't figure out where we went

 

go back and do dod's jam/dastardly crack - not quite as long and certainly harder but a similiar uber-classic feeling route leading to the trail

[kevbone]

kept "historical" pins in place

 

Ant that a bunch of crap, no thanks to JH, you should of seen my garage one night as he emptied out a huge bag of shit he has taken from the rock.

 

And please dont rap from the base of the slab.

frickin newbie!!!!

[slothrop]

He emptied a bucket full of chains onto the parking lot that day.

 

I don't care too much one way or another how the anchors are set up, as long as I can rap without thinking I'm going to die or kill someone below me.

 

What "slab" are you talking about? There are two huge rap bolts on Cruisin' and the rappel takes you down away from the line of the route, so what's the problem?

[kevbone]

What "slab" are you talking about? There are two huge rap bolts on Cruisin'

 

They are not on Cruisin. Cruusin ends in the middle of the traverse. You are talking about the base of the 2nd pitch, below the SLAB! You rap into a tree and over a sharp edge. Thats the problem!

[ivan]

What "slab" are you talking about? There are two huge rap bolts on Cruisin' and the rappel takes you down away from the line of the route, so what's the problem?

it makes everyone happier if you just rap off the tree-ledge tree one more pithc up

[crimper]

NO NO NO. DO NOT RAP OFF THE DAMN TREE ON TREE LEDGE. DON'T RAP OFF ANY TREES AT BEACON!

 

one of the "big issues" (apparently) that the relevant agencies have with beacon is that climbers bail off of trees. so please don't bail off any trees!

 

instead, you should be rapping off about 10-15 feet down and 10-15 feet to the climber's right at the top of P2 of young warriors. you get there by NOT topping out on tree ledge, and instead traversing a few right to the obvious anchors.

[slothrop]

We three did the first pitch of Cruisin' before YW. Walk right on a grassy ledge to the bolts and you can rap. Joseph wanted to see if you could make it with a 60m rope, as he'd heard someone say you could.

 

It's not a great rappel, but you can, in fact, do it. Say, if you have to bail for whatever reason.

 

I'll be sure to pre-approve all rappels with you, kevbone, from now on.

[ivan]

so much for sarcasm...

[kevbone]

I'll be sure to pre-approve all rappels with you, kevbone, from now on.

 

Thanks! We appreciate it.

 

Matter of fact, you should not be rapping at beacon at all, top out everytime.

[Cobra_Commander]

don't you know there is only one way to do everything out there? only passed down by word of mouth to those that are worthy?

[crimper]

ivan, sarcasm is lost on those who aren't in on the joke.

you and i know not to rap off the tree, but there are clearly plenty of people who don't.

 

so comments like yours aren't very helpful to beacon or climber's rights at and access to beacon, now are they?

 

(not to start a war or anything; i'd rather save my dazzling displays of wit for a different forum)

[slothrop]

I will bring aiders and such on every route in case I can't top out on an established free climb. Rappelling is for newbs from Seattle.

[kevbone]

I will bring aiders and such on every route in case I can't top out on an established free climb. Rappelling is for newbs from Seattle.

 

 

How about just not climbing there again?

[crimper]

that was funny, bone.

[slothrop]

I'd go back every weekend if it'd piss you off more

[kevbone]

I'd go back every weekend if it'd piss you off more

 

climbing there does not piss anyone off. Posting a trip report about a climb that is not in any guide book does. Check you PM's

[ivan]

wtf? young warriors is in the olson guide. certainly there's no decent description, but then neither's slothrop's tr (no offense, slothrop )

[fheimerd]

Seemed like the guy was just sharing his good experience not any beta for the route or anything. No need to get all bent out of shape. Remember...we all enjoy climbing at beacon because of the good vibe and awesome routes. So let's not rap off trees, throw rocks down from the YW top out and have a good time since the weather is in our favor.