Washington Pass Suggestions

[spotly]

We were thinking of Washington Pass as a plan 'B' destination for next weekend. Not being familiar with the area, any suggestions for a Friday thru Sunday trip? I want to stick to something in the 5.6 or below range - SEWS and Liberty Bell for sure. Anything else? Suggestions for good bivy spots along the way? Permit requirements? Thanks

[Blake]

5.6 and below doesn't really include much. Beckey Route on Lib Bell (kindy wandery with a move of 5.7) and S. Arete of SEWS (more of a 3rd/4th class scramble) are the only things that come to mind. Most folks just bivy in the Blue Lake TH parking lot. you need a northwest Forest Pass to park in the parking lots, but parking along the highway is free.

 

There's a 5.7 route that climbs part of Kangaroo ridge called the Spontaneity Arete. The route is about 6 pitches, not exposed, easy to bail off, but includes lots of scrambling and walking part-way up. If you are interested, search this site. Route is called Le Petit Cheval.

[Alpinfox]

 

Ain't much below 5.6.

 

Maybe you should consider a hike/scramble up the south ridge of Black Peak.

[spotly]

SEWS, Liberty Bell and maybe Kangaroo should make for a nice relaxing weekend. Did Black Peak last weekend and it was fun. Felt nice to get out alone for a scramble for the day. Might also check out that Goat Wall area - I hear there's an ok 5.8 bolted multipitch. Been kinda tired from all the trips lately so just looking for some place to mellow out (if plan 'A' doesn't go). Thanks for the suggestions.

[genepires]

there is a well protected (some say over bolted) climb on goat wall. I forget the name right now but I remember it was mostly moderate (5.6 to 5.7) except for the last pitch (5.9?). It is about 10 pitches long and you rappel the route so not doing the last pitch is not a big deal. really nice position. good for crappy weather days in the hills. The topo was only available on north cascades mountain guide service website but I don't think it is there anymore. maybe someone here has a name and topo? Larry Goldie or Scott Johnson?

[chris]

You can still get the topo by stopping by the North Cascade Mountain Guides (google their website) in Mazama. The route is well bolted and worth doing. Its also a great introduction to the Goat Wall rock.

[spotly]

Perfect. Thanks.

[Blake]

what's it called?

[Dan_Miller]

Prime Rib Of Goat

[Alpine_Tom]

One not-strictly-legal bivvy location is the picnic area at the overlook. If you're leaving at the crack of dawn, you can toss a sleeping bag on a picnic table and get some zzzs away from the grinding semis. At the least, it's a good source of potable water.

[Mr_Phil]

Nelson describes M&M ledge as a "good bivy" spot.

[ericb]

Few thoughts - even the east of crest forecast looks iffy...40/30/20% chance of precip on fri/sat/sun and cool That said:

 

There's 5.6 3 pitch route on the north face of Concord....good pairing with the Beckey Route as you rap to the base of the climb - both are reasonably done in the same day.

 

Agree with Blake....especially given the iffy forecast, Le Petit Cheval might be good as you can easily bail in a single rap into the descent gully...exactly why I did it last October - this is a full day. They call it 5.7, but I think that's conservative.

 

Kangaroo Temple has a couple routes...the North face is ~ 5.6 I think....lot of approach for 2-3 pitches. I just did the NW face - great climb, but it is a solid 5.7.

 

If I was going all the way to Black Peak, and comforable leading 5.6, try the Northeast Ridge - much better climb than the south route, although I'd not like to get caught up there on either ridge in bad weather, especially the NE. Freezing levels are dropping and Black is 8900 feet.