Suggestions on Light Day Alpine Rock Pack

[Need2Climb]

So after humping it up the E. Ridge of Ingalls the other day and pulling off the crux before the summit with my Arcteryx Bora 80, I decided that was enough and I need a day pack.

 

I've seen a couple of good ones out there, make a stop at ProMountain Sports the other day and looked at both the Grivel AirTech 28 - http://www.acmeclimbing.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=474

Go Lite Jam Pack - http://www.promountainsports.com/packs-golite-jam.shtml

 

Any opinions on these two or others that they reccomend? I'm looking for something light that will hold well on single day alpine routes, can take it to the crag etc.

[Blake]

I have a mountainsmith phantom i got for $40 a couple years ago that is pretty great. About 2lbs and you can take the waist strap and top pocket off. Good for 2 or 3 day alpine trips as well.

[colt45]

The MEC Alpinelite 30 is AWESOME! Weighs 1.5 pounds, can be trimmed down to about 1 pound if you trim off some extra features. Big enough for multiple days if you pack light, and carries a load surprisingly well if you put some thought into how you load it.

 

And it only costs ~$50 (plus another ~$20 for shipping from canada if you can't stop by one of their stores, but it's still a really good deal).

 

I used to have the black diamond speed 30 pack, which eventually fell apart. I think the alpinelite is a much better pack in terms of design, plus it's half the weight and half the price.

[slothrop]

I've got a Grivel Alpine Light (42L, 2+lb.) that was <$100 at PMS a while back (similar to the Rock pack, but bigger). It's not the lightest pack, but it's very versatile and carries well for cragging and all kinds of alpine climbing. Big enough for overnight trips even if you don't have all the fast-n-light gear. I've had it for over three years now and it is holding up very well.

 

Lots of little features, maybe frivolous for some:

 

Good:

- Two axe loops

- Light-colored interior for visibility

- Waist belt has little zippered pockets so you can add padding. I stuff gloves in them.

- Gear loops on waist belt

- I use it for a sleeping pad at my feet and carry a short foam pad for my upper body

- Compression straps on sides (can hold skis) and across the main closure on top

- Plastic loops on the shoulder straps hold a water hose in place nicely

- Outside pockets keep pickets strapped on the side from sliding down

- Little buckles on lid for lashing crampons on

- Zipper pockets inside and underneath lid

 

Not so good:

- Three gear loops inside main compartment. I don't use them much. You could cut these off.

- Ice axe bungees come loose if you don't tuck the ends under. Can replace with cord or velcro.

- External daisy chains don't get used often, except to hold on the ice axe bungees

- Water bladder pocket and hose portal are more trouble than they're worth

[jaee]

My BD Sphyx 35 is great. I did a 3-day on Rainier with it. It's around 2 pounds. The new Predator looks awesome, too. I plan on getting a MEC Alpinlite one of these days, since it's cheap, to use as a summit pack on bigger pack-ins. Check out the last time this was discussed: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/559584/

Edited September 1, 2006 by jaee

[chris]

I agree with Trogdor about the Grivel Pack. Except I find the little waist belt zippers always in my way - the zipper pulls are these little cable swages, so they can be a pain in the hip.

My biggest complain is the size of the straps - Trogdor is a little smaller than I, so perhaps this is truly a pack built for French and Italian men. I have only a few inches of strap left on the shoulders, without wearing extra layers. It just doesn't fit my back/chest well. I'm going to put it up for sale at the end of the season when I head back north. Meanwhile I'm ordering a BD Sphinx 42L, which fits me a lot better.

[slothrop]

Dude, my name is slothrop and I am mostly Swedish, 6' tall, and pretty skinny. While the Alpine Light is no Osprey pack, it fits me well enough for the amount of weight I can fit in it.

 

The BD packs do look pretty good. Anyone had problems with durability like colt45 has? I guess the Speed pack is made of pretty thin material.

[whidbey]

BD Speed 30 or whatever is the new version should suit you just fine. Great packs... If you want a little more freedom... the Shadow series is pretty damn nice also... larger though. Speed 30 or the newest version would get my vote.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Don't worry Slothrop, my new seal clubbing NES ice climber avatar will avoid further embarassing confusion.

 

BTW, I'm not that small either, just smaller than mtnfreak

[chris]

Sorry slothrop - and thank you trogdor for the new avatar so my three brain cells aren't quite so confused.

Its not all about height. If I get the Grivel shoulder straps comfortable, the waist belt is too high, and if I lower the straps, the bag hangs a couple of inches from my shoulders. I think I my back length and chest width just don't suit this pack, or vice versa.

 

I'm now on my second Speed 28 - its awesome! I really like how if rides, even fully loaded. The first one lasted three years before I retired it this summer. One recommendation: don't haul this pack if you can help it. The occasional pitch is fine, but we've been using my old pack to haul a drill around - ouch! The new BD Speed also comes in a 32 or 33L size if you want a bit more space.

[Need2Climb]

These are great suggestions. One thing I forgot to mention is that I'm 6'8" with a long ass torso. Is this a major consideration on day packs? I've had some say "oh yah, you'll need the 45L for your frame" As long as I can stuff my rack and rope in da shiznit it should be good.

 

I'm definitely liking the BD Sphynx/Speed Packs.

 

This one looks too small -

http://mountaingear.com/pages/product/pr...item/108997/N/0

[still_climbin]

I bought that Speed pack that's being closed out and have used it on seven peaks this summer. I love it. It makes me go light since the space is a little lean but it rides well and doesn't get in the way on the rock. I'm not sure it would be enough if you had much of a bivy in mind.

[colt45]

The BD packs do look pretty good. Anyone had problems with durability like colt45 has? I guess the Speed pack is made of pretty thin material.

The durability was actually pretty good. I put my speed pack through a lot of abuse--including carrying skis on the side straps, lashing crampons on the back (which created some punctures), and hauling it through chimneys. I had it for two full years and it was still in ok shape with a few holes, but when the zipper blew out on the lid pocket I decided to replace it.

 

The MEC alpinelite 30 really just can't be beat in terms of value and light weight, plus it has a very simple design and a solid system for attaching ice axe + crampons (much better than the flimsy elastic shock-cord ice axe holder on the speed pack).

 

The alpinelite doesn't have a frame or load-lifter straps, but I have found that loading the pack so that most of the weight is in the small of my back eliminates the need for these features.

[dmuja]

I like this one--->

 

Cold Cold World "Valdez"

http://www.coldcoldworldpacks.com/valdez.htm

 

Its pretty tough, low profile and the extendable main compartment makes one think it would even be possible to do an overnighter if you really go "minimalist". I like that you won't tag your pack with your helmet when looking skyward at a steep route (unless you do extend the main compartment).

[ewhack]

BD sphynx 35. on sale at sierra trading post.

[rhyang]

Used an MEC alpinelite 30 on Cutthroat Peak (S buttress) and Liberty Bell (Beckey route) when I came up to visit the North Cascades a couple of weeks ago. Also did some multipitch cragging in Squamish with it. No complaints, though I haven't tried using a gear sling with it - we had a light enough rack that our harnesses were sufficient.

 

I've also climbed alpine ice couloirs with it in the Sierra and an ice chute on Mt. Shasta.

 

Picked up a spare while I was passing through Vancouver on the way home

[Mark_Husbands]

you going back that way? i want one of those and i dont want to pay shipping.

[rhyang]

I wish ! But I can bring one to look at if you'll be around Tuolumne ... I am probably going to be heading up and over 120 multiple times between now and winter ...

[gearup5000]

Not pay shipping?

It's a very well thoughtout, relatively light daypack for only $50 bucks!

It's pretty durable - dyneema grid - and you're supporting a company that actually supports the environment.