Alan Posted April 2, 2002 Posted April 2, 2002 Does anybody out there really know what this final obstacle is like in getting to the top? Ropes required? Are there actually places to put pro? How long is this section? Is the rock really so bad that if you don't like a handhold, just move it? Quote
northfork Posted April 2, 2002 Posted April 2, 2002 Not that hard, but probably a good idea to have a rope. Make descent easy and fast. Yes, plenty of places for pro. Rock is not that bad. Go for it. Quote
Fairweather Posted April 3, 2002 Posted April 3, 2002 Easy (looks hard, but isn't) snow apron...climb to top of snow, then traverse left on easy ledge for about 100+ feet. Then cut back right and up 2nd class to summit. VERY easy; don't be intimidated by first look from false summit. Has anyone here done Olympus from Elwha Snowfinger Queets Basin? Info appreciated. Quote
kevin_page Posted April 3, 2002 Posted April 3, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Fairweather: Has anyone here done Olympus from Elwha Snowfinger Queets Basin? Info appreciated. If you've got visibility at Dodwell-Rixon Pass then the route is easy to see and follow. No need for a rope or crampons when we were there in early August. Upper Queets basin is beautiful and I would reccomend camping there rather than near the snout of the Humes glacier. We only found a semi-flat, soggy campsite on the edge of an elk wallow near the glacier. Blizzard pass is obvious. Traversing the East summit is easy, the middle peak has the best crystal formations I've seen in ONP and is an easy scramble much like the main summit. We went out the Hoh but I'd liked to have done the summits with a day pack and gone back out the N. Fork Quinault. Quote
jhamaker Posted April 3, 2002 Posted April 3, 2002 I distincliy remember loose rock on two of the three summits of Olympus. You can get away w/ brining only a small rack of chocks or tri-cams. Quote
Bob_Clarke Posted April 3, 2002 Posted April 3, 2002 I agree with Fairweather, looks intimidating but it's really easy. The second time I took a small party of strong beginner types and they had no problem with the final rock scramble as well. Long hike and fun climb. We camped at Deer Lake rather than Glaicer Meadows. Bummer thing, It's always been to cloudy for a view. I'd love to see over the valleys on a clear day. Good luck. Quote
Richard_Pumpington Posted April 3, 2002 Posted April 3, 2002 You'll need a rope for the glacier, but no pro forthe summit. The top was 4th class, with a coupleof low 5th class moves at best. The glacier had somegaping crevasses on it though. [ 04-03-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ] Quote
Fairweather Posted April 5, 2002 Posted April 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by kevin page: If you've got visibility at Dodwell-Rixon Pass then the route is easy to see and follow. No need for a rope or crampons when we were there in early August. Upper Queets basin is beautiful and I would reccomend camping there rather than near the snout of the Humes glacier. We only found a semi-flat, soggy campsite on the edge of an elk wallow near the glacier. Blizzard pass is obvious. Traversing the East summit is easy, the middle peak has the best crystal formations I've seen in ONP and is an easy scramble much like the main summit. We went out the Hoh but I'd liked to have done the summits with a day pack and gone back out the N. Fork Quinault. Kevin, Is this a reasonable itinerary? (for late June): Two easy days to Elwha BasinDay three; Elwha Basin to Queets Basin (??)Day four; Queets Basin to E,M,W summits and returnDay five; Queets basin to Low DivideDay six; Low Divide to NFQ trailhead How does Mount Queets via Queets Glacier look from the basin? Maybe this climb could be "sandwiched" in adding an extra day? Thanks for the info! Quote
kevin_page Posted April 5, 2002 Posted April 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Fairweather: Kevin, Is this a reasonable itinerary? (for late June): Two easy days to Elwha BasinDay three; Elwha Basin to Queets Basin (??)Day four; Queets Basin to E,M,W summits and returnDay five; Queets basin to Low DivideDay six; Low Divide to NFQ trailhead How does Mount Queets via Queets Glacier look from the basin? Maybe this climb could be "sandwiched" in adding an extra day? Thanks for the info! Yeah, that'd be a great trip. We went in for nine days and climbed Christie, Seattle, Noyes, Meany, Barnes, Queets and then Olympus. We did Queets from DR Pass so I don't know what the glacier route is like. When we were in the upper Queets basin I was too busy watching a massive herd of Roosevelt elk below us and taking in the scenery to consider climbing Queets from that side. I'd say take route descriptions for everything you'll be hiking by and climb whatever time and energy allows. Quote
DonnV Posted April 5, 2002 Posted April 5, 2002 I've always thought that an outstanding Olympic trip (I've done all parts of this but never linked together) would be to come into Queets Basin via the Bailey Traverse approach from the Sol Duc area. Then climb the Olympus peaks from Queets Basin. Then head out to Low Divide, but finish by hiking out the Skyline Trail (rugged, but uncrowded and incredibly scenic) instead of down the river valley. This would be a great backpack trip without the climbing. Having to carry ropes and other gear would certainly add to the work, and you obviously have a car shuttle to deal with, but it would be an incredible trip through the range. Quote
Tom Posted April 5, 2002 Posted April 5, 2002 I've summited twice, and had to hold at the false summit a third time. I've yet to find the class 2/3 scramble - I know it's there though. I've always done the west route... - go up the steep snow to the summit block- travel around to the west side to an open book- ascend about 70 feet there to an anchor, and then make the summit easily- this is also a good anchor for a repel down The guide book rates this approach at 5.4, but both times I've ascended it easily in regular boots, the second time in a light mist. We did shed our packs for the this pitch though. Tom Quote
Fairweather Posted April 6, 2002 Posted April 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by kevin page: Yeah, that'd be a great trip. We went in for nine days and climbed Christie, Seattle, Noyes, Meany, Barnes, Queets and then Olympus. We did Queets from DR Pass so I don't know what the glacier route is like. When we were in the upper Queets basin I was too busy watching a massive herd of Roosevelt elk below us and taking in the scenery to consider climbing Queets from that side. I'd say take route descriptions for everything you'll be hiking by and climb whatever time and energy allows. Guidebook author Robert L Wood describes the Martin Lakes area below Christie as "one of the most beautiful alpine meadows in all the Olympics". That little glacier on Christie is beautiful. How was your climb? I've thought it would be neat to climb over Christie and Dellabarre into Muncaster Basin, and then down to Pyrites creek, finishing at the Enchanted Valley trail. Quote
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