dberdinka Posted November 4, 2001 Posted November 4, 2001 It isn't climbing, but there's great skiing to be had at Washington Pass right now. Went up to Maple Pass on Friday and skied 10" of heavy powder on a nice base. Definitely worth checking out before the highway closes. Quote
climberbro16 Posted November 5, 2001 Author Posted November 5, 2001 I know this isnt the best time of year to ask this but anyone climbed anything lately? Just thought id ask sence theres not much posted lately. Quote
offwidthclimber Posted November 5, 2001 Posted November 5, 2001 went to a place called laclede near sandpoint, id last week and was pleased to onsight a devious old school 10c face climb, despite not having tied into a rope but once in the last 10 months. that made my weekend. this weekend, i flashed this tricky V3 boulder problem i've tried once or twice. was pretty happy about that too. huge deadpoint to a funky sloper, followed by some high stepping trickery. unfortunately for me, no mountain adventures this last summer, just beer , bouldering and beaches! Quote
Self_propelled Posted November 5, 2001 Posted November 5, 2001 Nice D! How much longer do you think the road will stay open? Rob Quote
Charlie Posted November 5, 2001 Posted November 5, 2001 Climbed the tooth on saturday. The route itself was warm and dry with just a little snow on the trail/ ledge section. The approach is in horrible condition- imagine 1 1/2 ft of snow on top of a boulder field. My shins still hurt! Quote
Wallstein Posted November 5, 2001 Posted November 5, 2001 I went to L-Worth on saturday and went up to Midnight rock. We started on the lowest tier and did the supposive 5.8+. The book says this is suppose to be one pitch up to dead end ledge but I don't see how this is possible. We did it in two. We then did WASP whick took us to the base of the most incredible crack I have seen in the state. ROTC. Straight in fingers to thin hands for almost the whole pictch. I thought cracks like this were only found in Yosemite or Squamish. The rock and the location were absolutely amazing. We topped out just as the sun was dipping below the valley and had a little rastafarian bivouc on top. An excellent day overall. Quote
Dru Posted November 5, 2001 Posted November 5, 2001 Saturday - did some hiking and smoking and skipped rocks on some subalpine lakes, and a little bit of bouldering. Unfortunately on the Chilliwack limestone crags at Slesse Creek it is fishing season and there are piles of fishermen's shit under all the pocketed limestone boulder traverses! Makes it bad news if you bail, more like soloing. sunday - went to the CoOp and bought some BD Express screws since now is the only time all year they will have them in stock! Also looked at some Grivel 360s at CMS but the 75 dollar price tag did not seem motivating. The funky coffe grinder wire lever seems like it would be easy to bend or break while beating on the screw with a tool trying to remove it or clear ice. Quote
philfort Posted November 6, 2001 Posted November 6, 2001 Sunday: Climbed this awesome clearcut slope. Actually, I got scared partway up, and didn't want to go any further. My partner continued a ways, but turned around once it got steeper. Said it would have been nice to have crampons and two axes, because the snow make the ground real slick. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted November 6, 2001 Posted November 6, 2001 Sounds fun. Isn't ROTC the 5.8+ finger crack that Beckey freed in 1948? I bet it was friggin cold up there. What next round 2 free solo it? One of these days I will lose my beer gut and have a chance too. Yeah right [ 11-05-2001: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote
Dru Posted November 6, 2001 Posted November 6, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I bet it was friggin cold up there. What next round 2 free solo it? What next - Supercrack! ROOOAR!! Quote
Wallstein Posted November 6, 2001 Posted November 6, 2001 Not to cold at all, the temps were perfect I don't think ROTC was 5.8+ is was more like 5.9-. Really though I though it was pretty tough for 11C. A sandbag like everything else at midnight. I haven't found an easy route there. Supercrack is next weekend [ 11-05-2001: Message edited by: Wallstein ] Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted November 6, 2001 Posted November 6, 2001 Wow Supercrack for real? Send me a PM I might go up there to shoot some photos of that if you don't care.... Quote
glacier_dup1 Posted November 6, 2001 Posted November 6, 2001 Just got back from 4 weeks on the road- Started with Goat's Beard at Mazama, then south to Bishop, Red Rocks, Mt. Charleston, and Joe's Valley. A good time of the year to chase sun before the Great Northwet sets in on us. Quote
nightfly Posted December 12, 2001 Posted December 12, 2001 Hey Dru, I bought a grivel screw once, It was a few years ago so i don't know if they still are made this way, but man it sure looks cool and she went in fine, no worries. I saw my buddy fire it in and move on without a hitch. But upon my attempt to remove this bastardly unit i spent the better part of five minutes. That unit had this funky minutely groved machined finished on the out side, Goes in good but once it melts that thin water layer from the friction of screwing it in, and then sits there-------and then refreezes, holy sheet man! that thing was welded. This hapened several times until we started getting smarter than the screw. I don't know where that 50 dollar piece of shit is now but it probably looks good on someones shinny new rack. Smily's are the only way to go. the user friendly knob just saves your gloves, but then again real ice climbers don't wear gloves right. Quote
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