Mt Erie - how good is it?

[Klimber]

I have read a few guides and some information on the web and the result is that I have mixed feelings about it. sounds like most of the trad routes are not so good (that's OK I guess) but there are some good sport routes. Not much camping near the site and the approach isn't too great. What are people's experience? Is it a good place to crag?

 

Why am I looking at it? The girlfriend can't handle anything above 80 and Leavenworth was around 90 last weekend so she is no so hip to that. I am not that big of a fan of the heat either but then again, I grew up in oklahoma so I have learned to deal with it.

[olyclimber]

its not as good as leavenworth, but its not 90 degrees there and there are easier routes than at index. so just go climb there and figure it out for yourself and write trip report about how it sucks or how awesome the views are and how your girlfriend loved it and post some pictures for me. thanks.

[Klimber]

yes sir, will report back on Sunday.

[Klimber]

btw - where do people camp?

[Skeezix]

Washington Park Campground out on the point past the San Juan Island Ferry west of Anacortes, or over the Deception Pass Bridge and take a right at the state park.

[Farrgo]

Dude, Erie is not a destination. You only climb there if you live within 30-40 mintutes. If you have an entire day and want the best climbing head to squamish, index, somewhere with long clean pitches.

[MountaingirlBC]

I dunno... I like it. Not for a whole weekend though. Powerline wall is fun.

[Eerie]

Depends, what kind of climbing are you interested in doing?

 

Besides being in an absolutely beautiful area there are a whole bunch of options on what and where to climb. If you want easy (5.6 - 3 pitch) trad there's an option there with a nice warm up hike to the base of the climb. If you want to do sport from 5.9 - 5.10 and want to get in 5 to six routes you can manage to do it by taking a little tour of the place (Powerline Wall -> The Cirque -> Orange Wall). With the exception of The Cirque all can be easily toproped. The southern exposure of the climbing does make it feel warmer than the actual temp, Orange wall especially. Stay away from the Upper Wall by the parking lot at all costs - that is unless you enjoy having tourons around you.

[mattp]

Erie is a great place and it has a variety of routes that are good. Many of the routes are oddly bolted, the trail system is confusing, and some of the climbs are discontinuous or very short and perhaps even contrived, but I don't agree that the trad routes are poor adn I think it is worth a trip or three. I don't consider it a "destination" climbing area, but it is often a good choice in marginal weather and I have found it great for beginners or climbers new to "outdoor climbing" as well as just a fun place to be.

 

For moderate trad routes, try ZigZag's first pitch to the Undercover corner on the main wall, or Keep on Dancin' on the main wall east.

 

The upper wall is a good top-rope crag and not a bad place to start out with a couple of trad leads to get a feel for the place. I have never had any problem with either "tourists" or other climbers, though I've had instructors or guides get a little proprietary about it at times.