G-M "5.10R" start?

[Gary_Yngve]

I tried to do this thing on TR, and I couldn't figure out where to go. After exerting a 5.11- effort, I got about 3-4 feet off the ground onto some thin edges but the face was blank above. There was another edge about a foot higher, though thinner than what I had been on. The next mediocre handhold seemed about 3 feet above what I could reach, and the next good handhold a foot higher.

 

Anyone have any beta?

 

We also cut some old slings about 20 ft to the left halfway up G-M p3. They were girdling a tree to the point that they were under tension by the tree.

[colt45]

I have toproped it, seemed way harder than the 5.10 rating in the guidebook (more like mid 5.11). I don't remember any specific move, just some very thin, slabby, footwork intensive climbing.

[Gary_Yngve]

Cool, those are the things I suck at. (You don't find that climbing at the gym or at X32/38.)

[cman]

we were just tring that saturday. i was able to reach the next holds from the feet you mentioned, there is a decent undercling on the left that helped. then crimped up and high stepped to those holds, there is one more hard move before you finally get to a good hold, still i think the hardest move is right off the ground.

[bwrts]

crimp and go up

[Gary_Yngve]

i think i saw that undercling to the left, but it seemed way too far to the left.

 

maybe i just need to see someone do it. or not have a bunch of shit on the back of my harness. or stfu and get stronger.

[Peter_Puget]

Stop over thinking and just climb!

[DirtyHarry]

Gary, could you please post a move by move photo essay of the sequence once you've figured it out.

[Gary_Yngve]

DH, will do. to lighten myself as much as possible to give me the greatest chance of succeeding, it will be a nude ascent.

[bwrts]

good fing luck....those foot holds will be tuff without shoes.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Dont worry gary I have already prepared the photo essay.

[olyclimber]

I'm here to post in this important ground breaking thread.

[Peter_Puget]

I'm here to post in this important ground breaking thread.

 

I was being serious. Colt makes it sound like some low angle slab on the Squamish apron. Seems more like "crank & go" to me.

 

Any thoughts on the ground being "ground down" by all the traffic? Maybe making the start harder. There are some good problems to the left too.

[olyclimber]

I saw Hansel boulder up that thing without a problem after I fell of the greasy ramp to the right. I followed it on TR, so it can't be harder than .10

The start was the hardest part, and I think I got a shove or a shoulderstand for that.

 

It's V2.

[Alpinfox]

I think Hansel had a hand or three on his ass at the time.

 

That shit is hard.

 

 

 

edit: The climbing. Not Hansel's ass.

 

2nd edit: I'm not saying Hansel is out of shape.

 

3rd edit: Nevermind

 

Edited August 15, 2006 by Alpinfox

[chucK]