Gary_Yngve Posted August 15, 2006 Share Posted August 15, 2006 I tried to do this thing on TR, and I couldn't figure out where to go. After exerting a 5.11- effort, I got about 3-4 feet off the ground onto some thin edges but the face was blank above. There was another edge about a foot higher, though thinner than what I had been on. The next mediocre handhold seemed about 3 feet above what I could reach, and the next good handhold a foot higher. Anyone have any beta? We also cut some old slings about 20 ft to the left halfway up G-M p3. They were girdling a tree to the point that they were under tension by the tree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt45 Posted August 15, 2006 Share Posted August 15, 2006 I have toproped it, seemed way harder than the 5.10 rating in the guidebook (more like mid 5.11). I don't remember any specific move, just some very thin, slabby, footwork intensive climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted August 15, 2006 Author Share Posted August 15, 2006 Cool, those are the things I suck at. (You don't find that climbing at the gym or at X32/38.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cman Posted August 15, 2006 Share Posted August 15, 2006 we were just tring that saturday. i was able to reach the next holds from the feet you mentioned, there is a decent undercling on the left that helped. then crimped up and high stepped to those holds, there is one more hard move before you finally get to a good hold, still i think the hardest move is right off the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted August 15, 2006 Share Posted August 15, 2006 crimp and go up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted August 15, 2006 Author Share Posted August 15, 2006 i think i saw that undercling to the left, but it seemed way too far to the left. maybe i just need to see someone do it. or not have a bunch of shit on the back of my harness. or stfu and get stronger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted August 15, 2006 Share Posted August 15, 2006 Stop over thinking and just climb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted August 15, 2006 Share Posted August 15, 2006 Gary, could you please post a move by move photo essay of the sequence once you've figured it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted August 15, 2006 Author Share Posted August 15, 2006 DH, will do. to lighten myself as much as possible to give me the greatest chance of succeeding, it will be a nude ascent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted August 15, 2006 Share Posted August 15, 2006 good fing luck....those foot holds will be tuff without shoes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted August 15, 2006 Share Posted August 15, 2006 Dont worry gary I have already prepared the photo essay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 15, 2006 Share Posted August 15, 2006 I'm here to post in this important ground breaking thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted August 15, 2006 Share Posted August 15, 2006 I'm here to post in this important ground breaking thread. I was being serious. Colt makes it sound like some low angle slab on the Squamish apron. Seems more like "crank & go" to me. Any thoughts on the ground being "ground down" by all the traffic? Maybe making the start harder. There are some good problems to the left too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 15, 2006 Share Posted August 15, 2006 I saw Hansel boulder up that thing without a problem after I fell of the greasy ramp to the right. I followed it on TR, so it can't be harder than .10 The start was the hardest part, and I think I got a shove or a shoulderstand for that. It's V2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted August 15, 2006 Share Posted August 15, 2006 (edited) I think Hansel had a hand or three on his ass at the time. That shit is hard. edit: The climbing. Not Hansel's ass. 2nd edit: I'm not saying Hansel is out of shape. 3rd edit: Nevermind Edited August 15, 2006 by Alpinfox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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